What tune-up items at 85k? | Ford Explorer Forums

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What tune-up items at 85k?

snickstx

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 2, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Fort Worth, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
'03 EBX
I've only been under the hood of my '03 4.0 a handful of times in it's 85k miles, most recently to look for the non-existent trans dipstick. It has always been serviced at dealer but nothing more than oil & tires. I refuse to pay shop time for basic stuff so I'm asking here what should I be looking at soon.

Upper ball joints are shot so replacing with Moog, wish I could get an RB lift kit in time. Should I go ahead and knock out the lowers, sway bar bushings, tie rod ends at the same time? What about control arm bushings, couldn't find a part number. Obligatory alignment.

Air filter (K&N), fuel filter, belt (GY Gatorback), plugs & wires, flush & fill, top up trans (shop work), oil change (dealer), anything else? When should I be looking at timing belt?

Rear brakes, original, one side has slight gouge but rotors never turned, is there a way I can tell if the can be turned w/o taking them off? NTB says no, need new rotors at $80 each plus labor.

I know, several questions but basically am I missing anything I should go ahead and do while I have her opened up?
 



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in a repair manual you can get the specs for the width of the disc and when it needs to be turned/replaced.

just curious, if you planning to replace the ball joints yourself..... why do you still have a dealer change your oil?!

if your lower, and tie rods are good, no sense in spending money replacing them, but if you want the peace of mind, it obviously wouldnt hurt, but its not gonna be cheap for all the parts. but then again you save on alignment, so your call.

you could consider doing transfer case and diff fluids, since they are easy, and if you do a full synthetic, you can gain some mpg's.

other than that it looks like you got most of it covered, oh ya, grease anything that can be greased, and keep the undercarriage generally clean.
 






The ONLY reason I go to the dealer for the oil was because I prepaid for several oil changes. Once they're used up, I'm done, especially considering the dealer is across town. It helped with my schedule at the time but that is no longer an issue.

I'll look up the diff and I'm not opposed to synthetic but I don't want to exaserbate any future failure. I've been lucky so far, knock on wood. Although the tranny has been acting up, hope it's not the solenoid. Will have a shop check it out.

I figured doing the preventative on the front end as I will be borrowing tools and space and don't really want to do it again anytime soon. I'm going to try to find parts that can be lubed rather than sealed. I guess I should consider repacking the bearings too while I'm at it.

The battery is new and cables are good but original. I just need to find the post covers that were on it new.

Thanks Riley. Any advice is well appreciated.
 






You Explorer came with Synthetic lube in the rear differential. I would replace it with either Royal Purple or Mobil 1 75w140. The front differential uses standard 75w90 oil. I would use Valvoline Semi-Syn as it is very good and not very expensive. I would also check the plugs and wires and if they need replacing I would use Motorcraft plugs&wires ONLY. Also, I would change out the transfer case fluid at the same time. Mercon V is what it takes. New Fuel Filter & Belt.
 


















i will be checking on this thread, because i myself and looking for some suggestions that i may not have thought of...
 






There is no validity in that statement, only your opinion.

amsoil has never been involved in lawsuits with major oil companies because nobody can find any flaws in their claims, and no-one can outperform them.
try to find this many (if any!) claims of valvoline, royal purple, or any other synthetic oil product outperform amsoil in any way.... doesnt happen.

so yes is it my opinion, but there is plenty of validity to it. amsoil strongly backs up their products. tons of people are very satisfied with it, and ive never heard any complaints.

http://www.amsoil.com/graphs/dominator/RD30_FourBall_900.jpg
http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-chan...-new-york-taxi-cabs-with-amsoil-10w40-oil.php
http://www.amsoil.com/comparison/motor-oil.aspx
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqvq5IHjHTg&feature=player_embedded
http://www.huskersynthetics.com/Amsoil is better than Royal Purple.htm
http://www.bestsynthetic.com/gearlubetest.shtml
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf
 






Recently went through the 02 for a tune up. Fuel filter, Amsoil air filter, flushed the brake fluid, flushed PS fluid, PCV valve, new plugs, oil change, and had to replace swaybar endlinks, cleaned the MAF, ran an induction cleaning, and changed coolant. I think the induction cleaning, plugs and air filter did some good, as my fuel mileage increased quite noticeably. Had an alignment and tire rotation done, and turned out the upper balljoints on both sides of the front were so shot they were just wiggling metal on metal. No time to DIY, so I had the shop do it, cost was not cheap. I noticed a couple months ago the front wheels had a slight wiggle to them, thought the hubs needed replacing, so I bought them, turned out to be the balljoints, so now I have hubs I can't return. If you can afford it, always replace rotors, don't cut them. Cut rotors won't last nearly as long as new replacements, and may warp.
 






I have no doubt that Amsoil products are good, but I have never seen any evidence, UOA or anything that suggests that they are worth the extra trouble and $$$ over Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Royal Purple or any of the other readily available oils. There is no such thing as a best oil. Some oils perform great in one engine and lousy in another. BTW, Amsoil is just a blender, they get their basestocks from Mobil, and others etc.







amsoil has never been involved in lawsuits with major oil companies because nobody can find any flaws in their claims, and no-one can outperform them.
try to find this many (if any!) claims of valvoline, royal purple, or any other synthetic oil product outperform amsoil in any way.... doesnt happen.

so yes is it my opinion, but there is plenty of validity to it. amsoil strongly backs up their products. tons of people are very satisfied with it, and ive never heard any complaints.

http://www.amsoil.com/graphs/dominator/RD30_FourBall_900.jpg
http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-chan...-new-york-taxi-cabs-with-amsoil-10w40-oil.php
http://www.amsoil.com/comparison/motor-oil.aspx
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqvq5IHjHTg&feature=player_embedded
http://www.huskersynthetics.com/Amsoil is better than Royal Purple.htm
http://www.bestsynthetic.com/gearlubetest.shtml
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf
 






What trouble? Amsoil's drop shipped to your door from one of numerous distribution warehouses from around the country, so shipping quick and cost is low. You enjoy driving around to get your favorite oil, have at it. Nevermind gas is pushing $3 per gallon again. You can also find dealers who offer the products at dealer/preferred customer pricing. Even their retail price is the same as, or lower than, Redline or Royal Purple. The best deal I can find on M1 is at Walmart in the jug. The price at the local auto store is high enough that Amsoil becomes the better choice. Mobil 1 is no longer a Group 4 synthetic. They lowered their standard to a Group 3, but are still able to claim "synthetic" status. Their only oil that is at all competitive with Amsoil or Redline would be their extended mileage synthetic, and it still doesn't meet Amsoil or Redline standards. It doesn't matter if, and that's if, Mobil blends oil for Amsoil. It's the blending that matters, different base stocks and different additives specified by the companies. There are only 2 blenders nationwide that I've heard of, so A LOT of name brand oils are blended by them. I have no experience with PP, but guys on bobistheoilguy.com have shown good results. I agree there is no "best" oil. It seems different engines respond differently to each oil as far as longevity and UOAs.
 






The whole Mobil 1 is Group 3 is nothing but a myth. Amsoil, is a boutique company that charges a premium on being small, which is percieved as being better. Royal Purple & Redline plus others do the same. Funny, you never see and of the Jegs Engine Masters Challenge using Amsoil or any of the NASCAR engine builders using it. What do they mainly use, Mobil 1 & Royal Purple. And, before anyone says that it is not the same M1 that we buy on the shelf, it is true that it is a custom blend for the most part.

But, on BITOG, several have spoken to officials on F1 teams and they use M1 0w-40 same that we can get. If it makes you feel good paying for boutique oil and if it gives you a warm and fuzzy feeling by all means buy it and enjoy. But, to just put out a blanket statement that Amsoil is the end all/be all of oil is kinda lame. I use everything from Motorcraft Semi-Syn & Full Syn, M1,M1 Racing Oil, Pennzoil Platinum, Quaker State Synthetic, Castrol Edge. All of them are very good oils for the purpose that they serve.
 






http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Group_3_Base_Oils.aspx they refused to answer the question, just ran on like a politician

http://www.mobil.com/australia-english/lcw/audiences/synthetic_v_mineral.asp interesting read

www.bobistheoilguy.com has threads up and down about it's switch to GIII status

Ever since Mobile lost their lawsuit against Castrol (they objected to the fact that Castrol "synth" was made from Group III base stock instead of being truly synthesized), and the court decided that the word "synthetic" was related to oil performace, not exactly how it was made, most manufacturers of "synthetic" oils switched to using Group III base. Mobil 1 was one of the last holdouts.

The rest I'm not going to bother with since you've got all the answers.
 






For one there was never a lawsuit. Mobil did file a complaint about Castrol calling Group III synthetic, but there was never any litigation of any kind. Plus, most oil companies do not reveal the contents of their oil. There is no proof whatsoever that Mobil 1 is Group III.

Your beloved Amsoil XL series is Group III yet they call it Synthetic. I have been a member at BITOG for years and for the most part it is nothing but amateurs throwing out unqualified opinions based on nothing of substance. I don't have all the answers and I dont pretend to. Im not the one coming on here saying that a certain brand is the end all/be all of oils.
 






the way i see it is, ive never heard of amsoil ever performing worse than another oil, and in every comparison test ive seen, its outperformed others overall. and in wear tests it outperforms all others. so im gonna use it!
its a great company to work with, customer service is great, dealers are great, and they ship right to my door. i love the products and have seen nothing but great results, so i will continue buying them, and recommending them.
and if people want to know why, check out the links earlier in the thread.
 






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