mrhilgart
New Member
- Joined
- October 29, 2012
- Messages
- 4
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- City, State
- Florida
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1998 Explorer EB V8
I wrote this in response to a private message and thought that it might be helpful to those new to the forums which have helped me so much. I hope that you find some insight and will continue to read and contribute experiences!
Hey, Im an owner of a used 1998 Ford Explorer V-8. Could u recommend which oil, spark plugs and spark plug wires to put in. Need to change.
Hello, I've had my 98 ex for about three years now and have done a little work on it to save some money and enjoy getting my hands in there. I did a tune up a month after I got it (already 85k miles) and noticed a huge improvement in operation (startup, idle, mpg and pickup) immediately. It's obviously important to keep up on this stuff especially with older vehicles. You'll see that the stuff I recommend may cost a couple extra dollars (not too much) but it definitely is a great precaution to take to keep your truck running well as it gets older.
I made some humble recommendations and then an outline at the end!
For oil: every 3 months or 3k miles (approx $31)
I typically use a higher grade (about $2-5 more expensive) like "premium" or "high mileage" varieties. I like penzoil platinum 5w/30 ~$25/5 quart and had used that for the last 2 years. For my last 3 oil changes I have used valvoline nextgen (~$25) a 50% recycled oil and haven't noticed a difference and feel a little better about going through 5qts every 3 months. I dont drive anywhere near 3k miles in three months but make sure that I get it changed around the 3 month interval to take precautionary measures. Make sure you get a decent oil filter too. I've always used fram tough guard (i think the part is HM-2 for 98 V8 Ex, but double check at your local place or wally-world). I change the filter every time I change the oil, maybe not necessary but $6 is better than $$$ repairs.
Spark Plugs: every 5-6 years, I recommend every 3-4 (approx. $3-5 a piece, $25-40 overall)
I use autolite (cheaper) or denso products. Look for platinum (single=good, double=better) or iridium (best but costly), be cautious of copper or nickel. PT and IR plugs last longer and have pretty good conductivity. Using a better spark plug will increase efficiency (mpg slightly) and power.
IMPORTANT!: WHEN CHANGING get some anti-seize and dielectric grease! I used permatex brand (inexpensive for both) which made the job efficient and easier the next time. Use a little anti-seize around the threads of the spark plug before putting them in. Put enough to see between the threads without leaving big globs (a toothpick or q-tip will do the job), this will make pulling them the next time a lot easier. If you haven’t changed them in a while, you’ll see what I mean; you may have to hit them with some PB blaster to remove. Always use dielectric grease when reinstalling the boot to the plug. A thin layer inside the boot and on the metal contact surface will do. This ensures transfer from the boot contact to the plug preventing misfires.
Spark Plug Wires: Change every 5 years or if you notice any wear or sparking (approx. $40-70, don’t skimp on something that will be in your vehicle this long)
I haven’t changed them in my Ex yet, still have the original motorcraft wires at 100k+ (not cool…) I just purchased a set of Accel 8mm cables and plan to change in the next couple days. Make sure you get them correct diameter and heat range 500-550F+ for increased longevity. Fiber glass construction is ok, carbon fiber is better. I’ll update with my findings when I install. Check your current wires for angled boots; if they have 90degree boots, make sure that’s what you get in your replacements.
Extra, but helpful, step! If it has been a while since the plugs/ oil have been changed. About 20-100 miles (couple days-week) BEFORE changing the plugs and oil do a seafoam treatment through the pcv valve (good time to test it out), oil, and gas tank; 1.5-2 cans will do the job (~$10/can). A really good thread is available through the forums on finding the pcv valve, on a ‘98 V8 it is between the engine and firewall, directly behind the period in the “5.0” logo on the engine, about 6 inches down. While the engine is warm (couple miles driving, 10-15 minute idle) and off, CAREFULL NOT TO BURN YOURSELF ON THE ENGINE, lightly pull on the hose running parallel to the ground in this area. The hose with the pcv valve will pull out easily. It sometimes has a foam cuff right above the valve. After removing the pcv valve and pushing up the cuff the hose will just reach the top of the engine. Turn the ignition on and you will hear a sucking sound from the hose. Slowly pour 2/3 to a full 16oz bottle of seafoam into the hose through an extension or funnel, the engine will seem to rev slightly as you pour the seafoam in. Turn the engine off. Push the new or working pcv valve back into the hose and pull the foam cuff (if there) back to the end of the hose where it meets the valve and replace is to the rubber/plastic housing in the rear of the engine block. Push down firmly once you feel the valve slide into place to make a tight seal.
After finishing your seafoam ration to the pcv hose, I like to pour the remainder of your previous bottle or up to a ½ bottle of seafoam into the gas tank (approx. ½ tank) to clear the fuel pump, filter, and injectors. Pouring another 1/3-1/2 bottle into the engine oil will also help clear anything remaining in the engine.
Wait about 20-30 mins after your seafoam injection and then start the vehicle. WARNING: It will smoke like crazy from the tail pipe. Make sure you are in an open area! This smoke is contaminants and carbon deposits that have been sitting in your engine and fuel system, do not breathe this in! Drive or rev the engine for about 10 mins. Try to get the rpms between 4-5k every so often to really clear that baby out, don’t stress it if you are having any other problems with the engine.
Recap:
1. Extra credit:
a. Seafoam treatment of pcv valve, gas tank, and oil.
2. Oil
a. Use better oil! Your vehicle will last longer and you’ll avoid costly repairs
b. I use “premium/platinum” or “high mileage” varieties
c. Change your filter every time for added protection
3. Plugs
a. Platinum or Iridium are best
b. Anti-seize on threads, Dielectric grease in the boots
4. Wires
a. Spend a few extra dollars an get something that you can trust and be happy with
b. Get the right fit, angled boots now? Get them in your replacements.
Hey, Im an owner of a used 1998 Ford Explorer V-8. Could u recommend which oil, spark plugs and spark plug wires to put in. Need to change.
Hello, I've had my 98 ex for about three years now and have done a little work on it to save some money and enjoy getting my hands in there. I did a tune up a month after I got it (already 85k miles) and noticed a huge improvement in operation (startup, idle, mpg and pickup) immediately. It's obviously important to keep up on this stuff especially with older vehicles. You'll see that the stuff I recommend may cost a couple extra dollars (not too much) but it definitely is a great precaution to take to keep your truck running well as it gets older.
I made some humble recommendations and then an outline at the end!
For oil: every 3 months or 3k miles (approx $31)
I typically use a higher grade (about $2-5 more expensive) like "premium" or "high mileage" varieties. I like penzoil platinum 5w/30 ~$25/5 quart and had used that for the last 2 years. For my last 3 oil changes I have used valvoline nextgen (~$25) a 50% recycled oil and haven't noticed a difference and feel a little better about going through 5qts every 3 months. I dont drive anywhere near 3k miles in three months but make sure that I get it changed around the 3 month interval to take precautionary measures. Make sure you get a decent oil filter too. I've always used fram tough guard (i think the part is HM-2 for 98 V8 Ex, but double check at your local place or wally-world). I change the filter every time I change the oil, maybe not necessary but $6 is better than $$$ repairs.
Spark Plugs: every 5-6 years, I recommend every 3-4 (approx. $3-5 a piece, $25-40 overall)
I use autolite (cheaper) or denso products. Look for platinum (single=good, double=better) or iridium (best but costly), be cautious of copper or nickel. PT and IR plugs last longer and have pretty good conductivity. Using a better spark plug will increase efficiency (mpg slightly) and power.
IMPORTANT!: WHEN CHANGING get some anti-seize and dielectric grease! I used permatex brand (inexpensive for both) which made the job efficient and easier the next time. Use a little anti-seize around the threads of the spark plug before putting them in. Put enough to see between the threads without leaving big globs (a toothpick or q-tip will do the job), this will make pulling them the next time a lot easier. If you haven’t changed them in a while, you’ll see what I mean; you may have to hit them with some PB blaster to remove. Always use dielectric grease when reinstalling the boot to the plug. A thin layer inside the boot and on the metal contact surface will do. This ensures transfer from the boot contact to the plug preventing misfires.
Spark Plug Wires: Change every 5 years or if you notice any wear or sparking (approx. $40-70, don’t skimp on something that will be in your vehicle this long)
I haven’t changed them in my Ex yet, still have the original motorcraft wires at 100k+ (not cool…) I just purchased a set of Accel 8mm cables and plan to change in the next couple days. Make sure you get them correct diameter and heat range 500-550F+ for increased longevity. Fiber glass construction is ok, carbon fiber is better. I’ll update with my findings when I install. Check your current wires for angled boots; if they have 90degree boots, make sure that’s what you get in your replacements.
Extra, but helpful, step! If it has been a while since the plugs/ oil have been changed. About 20-100 miles (couple days-week) BEFORE changing the plugs and oil do a seafoam treatment through the pcv valve (good time to test it out), oil, and gas tank; 1.5-2 cans will do the job (~$10/can). A really good thread is available through the forums on finding the pcv valve, on a ‘98 V8 it is between the engine and firewall, directly behind the period in the “5.0” logo on the engine, about 6 inches down. While the engine is warm (couple miles driving, 10-15 minute idle) and off, CAREFULL NOT TO BURN YOURSELF ON THE ENGINE, lightly pull on the hose running parallel to the ground in this area. The hose with the pcv valve will pull out easily. It sometimes has a foam cuff right above the valve. After removing the pcv valve and pushing up the cuff the hose will just reach the top of the engine. Turn the ignition on and you will hear a sucking sound from the hose. Slowly pour 2/3 to a full 16oz bottle of seafoam into the hose through an extension or funnel, the engine will seem to rev slightly as you pour the seafoam in. Turn the engine off. Push the new or working pcv valve back into the hose and pull the foam cuff (if there) back to the end of the hose where it meets the valve and replace is to the rubber/plastic housing in the rear of the engine block. Push down firmly once you feel the valve slide into place to make a tight seal.
After finishing your seafoam ration to the pcv hose, I like to pour the remainder of your previous bottle or up to a ½ bottle of seafoam into the gas tank (approx. ½ tank) to clear the fuel pump, filter, and injectors. Pouring another 1/3-1/2 bottle into the engine oil will also help clear anything remaining in the engine.
Wait about 20-30 mins after your seafoam injection and then start the vehicle. WARNING: It will smoke like crazy from the tail pipe. Make sure you are in an open area! This smoke is contaminants and carbon deposits that have been sitting in your engine and fuel system, do not breathe this in! Drive or rev the engine for about 10 mins. Try to get the rpms between 4-5k every so often to really clear that baby out, don’t stress it if you are having any other problems with the engine.
Recap:
1. Extra credit:
a. Seafoam treatment of pcv valve, gas tank, and oil.
2. Oil
a. Use better oil! Your vehicle will last longer and you’ll avoid costly repairs
b. I use “premium/platinum” or “high mileage” varieties
c. Change your filter every time for added protection
3. Plugs
a. Platinum or Iridium are best
b. Anti-seize on threads, Dielectric grease in the boots
4. Wires
a. Spend a few extra dollars an get something that you can trust and be happy with
b. Get the right fit, angled boots now? Get them in your replacements.
