Wheel swap? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Wheel swap?

krooozn

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Joined
July 10, 2012
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City, State
Suffok, Va.
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Sport Trac
I did a search in hopes of finding this information before posting here and I came up with nothing that really answered my question....so I am gonna hang it out here in hopes that someone will be able to give me an answer or at least suggestions. I am wanting to know what other wheels will fit my
2007 Sport Trac? It currently has the stock 16" kind of brushed aluminum looking spoke wheels on it and I was wondering what other wheels from other vehicles might would fit my truck? I can't afford to buy a new set of wheels for it, but might possibly be able to afford a used set off something else if I knew what would work....so if any of you can offer up any information or suggestions as to possible matches I would really appreciate it....

Thanx again for the help all of you so readily offer me.....Anita :eek:
 



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I've heard that the Adrenaline wheels look good. But I'm curious if the new Ford Edge Sport's wheels would also fit. Maybe someone on here would have that answer.
 






The bolt pattern is the most common used on Ford vehicles 5 on 4.5". The hub has the same diamter as the Mustang also. Most wheels for the S197 Mustangs will bolt right on. I have a set of Shelb CS40s in 20x9 with a 30mm offset. They fit just about perfectly. There is a plethora of wheel designs for the chassis. The new edge I believ slightly different bolt pattern and the offset is too high. They may bolt on, but could come loose easier and set in way too much...
 






Yep, like Calahan said look into mustang wheels. I picked up a set of 2005 mustang GT 17" wheels for my winter wheel/tire set. The offset and hub bore is the same which you want to make sure of, 70.3mm. you will likely have vibration issues if you get new wheels that are not hubcentric.
 






You can have wheels with a larger hub bore with no problems. The hub flange carries zero load and provides zero centering effect.

The entire weight of the vehicle and impact loads are carried by the clamping force generated between the wheel and hub when the lug nuts are properly torqued down. The wheels are centered via the conical shape of the lug nuts and conical shape of the lug nut seat in the wheel.
 






Ford Engineers made the wheel and hub centric for a reason, to ensure that the wheel is centered when mounting it. You shouldn't just go by the cone shaped lug nuts to center a wheel if it's designed to be hub centric, but that doesn't mean that you can't. I stand by my statement that you are likely to have vibration issues with non-hubcentric wheels. I have experienced it first hand. You can get it pretty close without a hub centric wheel by taking your time to tighten the lugnuts properly, in a cross pattern, but all it takes is a dumbass at the local tire shop to drive one lug home fully with an impact and not cross tighten them to have enough runout that your new tires are bouncing all over the place on the highway.
 






For the hub flange to center the wheel, it would need to be a close tolerance hole in the wheel. The type of close tolerance hole that requires a press to engage- and the softer wheel would actually need to be undersized by 0.001-0.005". Ever used a press to mount your wheels? And because you don't use a press, that means the wheel bore is larger. Next time you have a wheel off, press the wheel up against the hub flange tightly with your hands and try to slide it up- it'll go. It's not much, but there is movement.

And you're right, if some monkey with an impact gun tightens down one lug nut first before evenly snugging the rest down in a star pattern, it is possible to get a vibration. And that's because there is that "slop" in the wheel hub bore size that doesn't center the wheel- even on stock wheels.

Trust me. I know there is a ton of mis-informed people out there who claim otherwise. Most of them don't know what actually happens with a bolted joint. Myself, I've made a career out of creating them for various applications.

I believe the purpose of the hub flange is that it keeps the wheel's lug nut holes from resting on the threads of the lug studs before lug nuts are installed. You can actually watch the lug nuts reposition the wheel as you tighten them down.
 






You shouldn't just go by the cone shaped lug nuts to center a wheel if it's designed to be hub centric, but that doesn't mean that you can't.

No need to buy special lug nuts- every wheel I've ever removed (and I've removed a few), have conical shaped lug nuts.

Now it's true, the angle of the cone can differ and you need to make sure you have that matched up between the lug nuts and the lug nut seat.
 






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