Where is the spark plug thread?

[holachh]

I need some advise regarding changing passenger side plugs on my truck. I am sure there is a existing thread already. Can someone give help or direct me to existing info?? Thanx!!

 

[scucci]

Pull the tire/wheel off. Remove the push pins holding the inner splash guard and then you have access to the plugs.

Hope this helps
Roy

 

[marragtop]

Make sure you check the gap on the new plugs and use anti-seize. Might also be a good time to replace the wires while you're in there.

 

[wooky]

I just changed mine and let me tell you be prepared to spend some time on those passenger side plugs. I took the wheel off and removed the splash guard and it was still hard to do.

 

[bmacd]

i'll be doing this and wires today

-=bmacd=-

 

[gijoecam]

All together, the plugs and wires took me about an hour. Again, go through the passenger wheel well. You'll need a spark plug socket, a 3/8 drive universal joint, and a 6" extension to reach the back two plugs. Other than that, it's really not a difficult job.

-Joe

 

[Trailbum]

Thanks for the info here guys!! I've been looking at that right rear spark plug for months thinking, "How in the #^%&...." I just tackled this project and the real PITA was getting the wires off of the plugs. Ended up slicing the boots to get them loose since I was replacing the wires anyway. I also removed the ENTIRE right inner fenderwell to access a leaking heater control valve. Only a couple of bolts and screws and only took a few minutes. Gave me a lot of extra room to work on those plugs!!! SO glad to get that project done without breaking anything!! Thanks again!!

 

[Baileybc]

Thanks for the info here guys!! I've been looking at that right rear spark plug for months thinking, "How in the #^%&...." I just tackled this project and the real PITA was getting the wires off of the plugs. Ended up slicing the boots to get them loose since I was replacing the wires anyway. I also removed the ENTIRE right inner fenderwell to access a leaking heater control valve. Only a couple of bolts and screws and only took a few minutes. Gave me a lot of extra room to work on those plugs!!! SO glad to get that project done without breaking anything!! Thanks again!!

All three of my driver side plugs showed extensive melt down of the central electrode and the gap was about 0.070" The resistance of all three of these shorter plug wires was 6.11 K-Ohms. The passenger-side plugs ran about 11.05 K-Ohms and did not show the entensive central electrode erosion. Gaps were running about 0.056", much closer to the 0.054" spec. The passenger-side plug wires are longer than the driver side, but not by 80%, so maybe it is time to replace the wires as well as the plugs.

 

[Baileybc]

Here is my postscript on the plug removal. My Motorcraft plugs had 50K miles from Ford install. I installed Autolite APP103 in my 97 VIN E, SOHC, 4.0L XLT. All three driver side old plugs showed gaps of 0.070 or greater and the center electrodes showed meltdown. All three passenger side plugs had gaps close to the 0.054 spec and no meltdown. To access these plugs, I removed the right tire/wheel assy and removed the entire wheel well fender apron. To remove this apron, remove the two hex screws at top of the well, the two screws at the well exit (11 and 2 o'clock, and the two smaller hex screws at the very front of this apron. Do not remove the two larger hex screws slightly inboard of these smaller hex screws, as they secure the EGR ball (toilet bowl float) to the apron. The 7th screw is at the tail end of the apron. Once the screws are out, wiggle the apron until it can be removed as a unit from the well. To remove the boot from the middle and rear plugs, use a can opener with the pointy tip ground down to a 0.2 inch flat surface. I did not require a universial socket joint, but did backup the plug socket with another socket to give some room away from the block to work the socket handle. I did not require removing the air filter box to access the front plug, just worked carefully around the AC compressor lines and transmission dip stick. Used never seize on the plug threads and replaced the 130,000 mile spark plug wires with Bosch lifetime. Had to man-handle the apron to get it to pop back into space in reinstalling. No troubles and smooth engine. baileybc@bendcable.com Mark

 

[The Cheat]

Yeah, easier with the wheel liner and wheel off....Still questioning if it was worth saving the $142 the dealership wanted to do it...