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Thanks guys, all the ideas have been very helpful!! As stated earlier my diagnostic skills are not very good, and any help is appreciated. I think I have a plan of attack, whether its any good or not, I am not sure, but it feels better to have a plan.
Replaced the fuel filter last night, pretty sure that was original. Wasn't a bad job minus one catastrophy, if your ever bored and looking for a laugh, google "gasoline in the ear canal", oooops.
I also ordered some parts, passanger side exhaust manifold (has a visable crack), EGR tube (for the price I might as well replace that as well). Ordered 2 oxygen sensors to replace the ones pre-cat, and lastly the filler neck to eliminate the EVAP leak. Clear all codes and start again.
Thoughts on this plan?
 


















I will try to post any updates as they happen. Is there a good process for checking the fuel pressure that doesn't involve any specialty tools?
 






Sounds like a plan.
 






All right, here is my update. I have replaced both pre-cat oxygen sensors, replaced the gas filler neck, replaced the passanger side exhaust maniflod (was cracked nearly in half), replaced the EGF tube and the EGF, cleaned the MAF sensor. I was still getting a miss on cylinder #6 and 7, so I changed both of those spark plugs....nothing, still misses.
I had a friend run a compression test on the driver side bank, #5 and 8 were in normal range (150+), #6 and 7 were around 70-80.
So, what now? I have Pep boys guy telling me new fuel pump and new injectors, and now this guy (who I know peronally, but can't vouch for his diagnostic skills) telling me I need the heads rebuilt.
Thoughts? I really could use some help here.
Matt
 


















Did he do a fuel pressure check? What was it??? Starting to sound like it's just a coil pack...

This could also be causing the low compression readings? Sorry if that is a dumb question, I just don't know.
 


















This could also be causing the low compression readings? Sorry if that is a dumb question, I just don't know.
The only things to cause low compression; worn/ broken rings, scored cylinder wall, blown head gasket, cracked head, burned valve, intake valve not opening, or valves not closing for whatever reason. The fuel pressure will have nothing to do with low compression. If you have a bad injector, you will have a weak running cylinder, but not low compression.
 






Those low compression readings are concerning. A compression test is fairly simple to do, so I think your friend probably did it just fine. I might repeat it one more time before comitting to a big tear down. yavapaires is correct about the possible causes of those low readings though.
 












Sorry for the delay on any updates, it has been a trying month or so without the truck problems.
Good news is that the explorer seems to be running great. The last time I reported I had just found the compression readings to be low on cyl. 6 and 7. In the midst of this I swapped the coil packs and found them to be working just fine. Again, took it to a "friend" who ran a leakdown test on it and came to the conclusion that the valves (2) were bad, valve job=$$. His suggestion was to look for a good used motor and swap it out.
I tracked one down at a local salvage yard, some of you may know your way around the internet when looking for parts, but I found this site to be very helpful;
http://www.car-part.com/
It allowed me to look at many sellers in my area very quickly. The used motor had been tested, great compression, only 110,000 miles, and had not been rolled over. Motor cost $300, this "friend" charged me $500 to do the swap.
So, new gaskets, seals, and my already existing new manifold and tube, it seems to be running great. He also discovered one of the electrical connections from the motor to the transmission to be loose and scarred, replaced that as well and the transmission no longer "slips" and the flashing O/D off light has vanished.
I have run it for about 2 weeks/ 500 miles and it seems to be great!! I am thankful to all of those that helped me as I muddled through this process, my skills do have many limitations. Also, I would like some feed back as to the cost of the motor and the install. Is this fair, did I pay way to much? I felt comfortable with this "friend" and did not seek other pricing.
Thanks again
 






AGREED! Fix that filler neck issue. The neck rotted through on my "98" Ranger and it ran like crap! I do not remember the exact trouble codes, but I to had a laundry list. They related to a lean condition on both banks and a massive EVAP leak. Changed neck, reset OBD2 and codes were gone... Worth a shot, I got a good used 1 at a local salvage yard for I think $40? G.L
 






Also, I would like some feed back as to the cost of the motor and the install. Is this fair, did I pay way to much? I felt comfortable with this "friend" and did not seek other pricing.
Thanks again

IMO, $300 for a 5.0L with 110K miles and $500 labor for the swap are both excellent deals.
 






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