Which ball joint is more apt to wear out first?

[matt351]

I'm getting ready to put on some new tires. Which ball joints tend to go bad first? Do the uppers tend to wear out faster than the lowers? I recently put on some kyb mono max shocks and I still have some rattle in the front end going over bumps. Ultimately I'd like to change out all of them as well as the tie rod ends, but I have to do it a little bit at a time. I have noticed that the front right tire is wearing out along the inside 2 inches of tread. I figured this was probably attributed to a bad ball joint.

Any help guys?

 

[crunchie_frog]

I think the lower ones see more stress. With the tire safely off the ground on a jack stand, put a lever under it, like a 2 by 4 and lift up on the tire while looking at the ball joint. You should see very little, if any movement, if they are good. Easiest to replace both upper, lower and tie rods all at the same time though.

 

[jremington59]

You might as well replace the lower ball joints now if the inside of the tire is wearing.

 

[matt351]

Okay thanks guys. Next question... I read the thread about heavier duty replacement ball joints, tie rods, ect. Do they make a heavy duty replacement lower ball joints as opposed to whole control arms? Or are you stuck just replacing control arms to accomplish this? I know my old BMW was this way.

 

[swshawaii]

Lot's of info here. Good reading.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297369

Interesting although I've yet to see feedback. (Mevotech TXK8695T)
http://www.ttxterraintough.com/
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1362440,parttype,10070

"How To" threads for 1995-2001 Explorers - Stickys compiled
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386329

 

[matt351]

I did read that thread actually, it's just that everyone who chimes in mentioned replacing the control arms instead of actually changing out the ball joints.

I did find some Raybestos Professional Grade ball joints on Rock Auto for the stock lower control arm. I think that's what I'm gonna stick with for right now.

Wish me luck lol. I've done lots of car stuff, but never ball joints. Should be an interesting experience.

 

[RadioDoc]

Try to get as much camber out of the front wheels as possible.
Go for zero camber and slight toe-in.

Yeah, Yeah, Yeah, if you are on a road race course, at the limits of traction, a little camber helps, but for cars and trucks that PRIMARILY go in a straight line 99% of the time, set the tread flat to the road.

Ford put in fixed camber plates on the upper frame attach points that can be changed to MOOG adjustable ones, but a welding shop can make a set for 1/4 price.

Sometimes, the Ford plates can be flipped where the A-arm hole is closest to the outside.
( closer to zero camber ) Check with a level on the tires when the full weight of the vehicle is on the ground.

Don in Huntsville

 

[swshawaii]

I did read that thread actually, it's just that everyone who chimes in mentioned replacing the control arms instead of actually changing out the ball joints.

That pertains to the UPPER control arms. OEM upper ball joints are not replaceable on 1995-01. Unless the lower control arm bushings are worn, most will only replace the lower ball joints. Put them in the freezer overnight, much easier to press in cold.