Will Pulling The PCM Fuse Reset Check Engine Light?

[gdgiordano]

If it will work where is it at? I don't want to go over to autozone again and I don't want to disconnect the battery.

Just having an O2 sensor circus. Most likely bad gas it seems. Running fine.

 

[Maniak]

Yes, it will clear the codes but it will then it won't be emission ready....

If it's running fine it's probably downstream sensor codes OR heater circuit codes... Either way, if the CEL or IM not ready will stop you from passing emissions/inspection.

Also, if the o2 sensor isn't responding the code could come back right when it's emission ready which is only a few drive cycles.

~Mark

 

[gdgiordano]

Yes, it will clear the codes but it will then it won't be emission ready....

If it's running fine it's probably downstream sensor codes OR heater circuit codes... Either way, if the CEL or IM not ready will stop you from passing emissions/inspection.

Also, if the o2 sensor isn't responding the code could come back right when it's emission ready which is only a few drive cycles.

~Mark

its a p0153 oxy circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 1. What do you mean by not emission ready? Like pulling the fuse would change the settings or something? If its actually wrong the code will just come back right?

 

[Maniak]

There's a status in the PCM that says it's emission ready. If that status isn't set places that actually do the emissions test by asking the computer if everything is ok will fail since it's basically saying it doesn't know yet... That status, along with the persistent codes (and pending codes) all go away when the PCM looses power. Once it's emission ready (Called the IM status in the scanner I use) anything that is wrong has most likely already turned on the CEL.

The P0153 is a front sensor and that can/probably cause increase fuel consumption. Check the easy things first.. look for exhaust leaks on the passenger side (I"m assuming the 4.0 sohc/ohv motor here) and also rule out vacuum leak (doubtful since it's only showing the code for Bank 1)...

Assuming the sensors are the same for both sides (AFAIK, they are) just swap the sensors per side. If the issue follows the sensor then it's the sensor.. If it doesn't follow the sensor then it's time to get a good scanner so you can watch if the voltages are actually switching on the sensor.. Wiring issues can cause the code issue too.

~Mark

 

[gdgiordano]

There's a status in the PCM that says it's emission ready. If that status isn't set places that actually do the emissions test by asking the computer if everything is ok will fail since it's basically saying it doesn't know yet... That status, along with the persistent codes (and pending codes) all go away when the PCM looses power. Once it's emission ready (Called the IM status in the scanner I use) anything that is wrong has most likely already turned on the CEL.

The P0153 is a front sensor and that can/probably cause increase fuel consumption. Check the easy things first.. look for exhaust leaks on the passenger side (I"m assuming the 4.0 sohc/ohv motor here) and also rule out vacuum leak (doubtful since it's only showing the code for Bank 1)...

Assuming the sensors are the same for both sides (AFAIK, they are) just swap the sensors per side. If the issue follows the sensor then it's the sensor.. If it doesn't follow the sensor then it's time to get a good scanner so you can watch if the voltages are actually switching on the sensor.. Wiring issues can cause the code issue too.

~Mark

Does that status self set if everything is working right or does someone have to set it? My battery has been disconnected all kinds of times and I never had to worry about the emission ready stuff.
Also would the light go off on its own if things return to normal?
Like I said I am doubtful there is an actual issue outside of the bad gas. There's no obvious leaks or exhaust smell anywhere it shouldn't be.

 

[Maniak]

Does that status self set if everything is working right or does someone have to set it? My battery has been disconnected all kinds of times and I never had to worry about the emission ready stuff.
Also would the light go off on its own if things return to normal?
Like I said I am doubtful there is an actual issue outside of the bad gas. There's no obvious leaks or exhaust smell anywhere it shouldn't be.

AFAIK, yes, the PCM will remove that code after the issue is seen to be fixed BUT it's not right away.. It will take a few drive cycles for it to figure out things are ok. I never let codes clear themselves.. I have 3 ways to clear codes (not including disconnecting power) plus the neighbors nice snap-on scanners are really nice to use too.

~Mark

 

[ThreeJs]

Yes. You can pull the maxi-fuse #11 under the hood fuse panel next to brake booster, driverside, 2nd from top 20Amp fuse.
That should clear the codes. I used to do it this way for a lean code until I bought a scanner.
Leave it out for 5-10 min. reinsert fuse.
Just a FYI..it is also the fuse for the horn...

 

[gdgiordano]

AFAIK, yes, the PCM will remove that code after the issue is seen to be fixed BUT it's not right away.. It will take a few drive cycles for it to figure out things are ok. I never let codes clear themselves.. I have 3 ways to clear codes (not including disconnecting power) plus the neighbors nice snap-on scanners are really nice to use too.

~Mark

Thank you a ton for the tips. I will be letting it go through a few cycles with a fresh tank of gas and sea foam before resetting it by hand.

 

[gdgiordano]

Yes. You can pull the maxi-fuse #11 under the hood fuse panel next to brake booster, driverside, 2nd from top 20Amp fuse.
That should clear the codes. I used to do it this way for a lean code until I bought a scanner.
Leave it out for 5-10 min. reinsert fuse.
Just a FYI..it is also the fuse for the horn...

That's such a ford things to do. Put the PCM and horn on the same fuse hahaha. Thank you

 

[koda2000]

IDK why you have an issue with just disconnecting the battery, but I guess pulling the maxi-fuse will accomplish the same thing. However, if the CEL is on because of a problem, the light will just come back on again. You wont be able to fool an emissions test unless the problem is fixed and your "emissions ready".

 

[gdgiordano]

IDK why you have an issue with just disconnecting the battery, but I guess pulling the maxi-fuse will accomplish the same thing. However, if the CEL is on because of a problem, the light will just come back on again. You wont be able to fool an emissions test unless the problem is fixed and your "emissions ready".

I don't want to do the battery because it resets my aftermarket stereo. Its super obnoxious because it takes me 30 minutes to reset everything. My emissions wont be due until December this year or 2019. Its not a yearly thing for me for some reason. Also my state has vans on highway ramps that do it and obviously they don't check the computer as I go by at 60mph. If you go through fine a certain number of times they don't have you come in.

 

[koda2000]

I would think pulling the maxi-fuse would also cut the power to you radio. but maybe not.

 

[ThreeJs]

Pulling the fuse has no effect on radio settings.....The main reason I pulled the fuse rather than disconnect the battery.

I figured out the horn problem when I went to get my smog check and it said "not ready"

Everytime I shut the engine off it would clear the drive cycle and go into not ready status.

replace the fuse and the horn worked again and I passed smog with no problems.