Window slow to roll down but rolls up fast

[Brian Eads SR]

Anybody help me with my 2000 Ford Explorer? My driver's window rolls down very slowly but going up it's fine.

 

[CDW6212R]

How old is it, and has there been any damage to that door frame? I'd spray the glass edge along the side guides, with WD40. If that helps, then the glass is not sliding easily within the guides. Mine in my LF door of my 93 ended up being corrosion in the guide channels, the metal part that the felt guides are inside of. That was a whole assembly that included the window channel around the front/top/back of the glass. The rubber/felt was fine, but the metal was a little rusty behind it, pushing it outward, squeezing the glass.

There is an adjustment of the guide at the back edge of the glass. That rear guide piece is straight and short, with a bolt at the bottom, which will slide forward and backward a little, adjusting the tightness of the glass along that section(top of door panel down to where the guide ends. The bolt to adjust the window guide is the lowest one along the back edge of the door, behind the door panel, a gold 11mm socket head I believe.

 

[toypaseo]

My passenger window started to get slower in speed, sometimes binding to where I thought something would break. I removed the door panel, put some some both sides of the sliders in the mechanism track, and rolled the window up and down until I thought the binding was fixed. I used some synthetic grease, but I think white lithium grease would work as well. Works as normal now.

 

[koda2000]

WD40 may help for a little while, but I've found it doesn't last very long. That's because it's not a lubricant.

Wear, dirt/dust in the glass channels cause the windows to move more slowly, especially when going DOWN, because the glass can **** in the window channels. I had one '00 Explorer who's driver's side glass would not even go down without help.

I use Liquid Wrench brand foaming silicon spray (Walmart sells it). Using the red straw that comes with the can, put the glass down all the way as spray the glass channels from the top all the way down as far as you can reach. I do this on all my Explorers/Mountaineer once a year and it keeps the windows working smoothly again (in both directions). Try not to spray silicon on the glass, as it's hard to get off.

If you live where there's more dirt and dust you may have to spray the channels more often, but I find doing it once a year is plenty.

Oh, don't bother taking the door apart to try to grease any moving parts. It's not your problem and greasing the window mechanism will not help.

 

[Goldt00th]

Anybody help me with my 2000 Ford Explorer? My driver's window rolls down very slowly but going up it's fine.

Mine is the same way, I removed the door panel and pull back the plastic door liner thing. I gooped up the tracks with grease and hit the pivot points on the arms with WD-40and the window rolls up and down pretty easily. Going to hit the front driver's side door today.

 

[CDW6212R]

WD40 may help for a little while, but I've found it doesn't last very long. That's because it's not a lubricant.

Wear, dirt/dust in the glass channels cause the windows to move more slowly, especially when going DOWN, because the glass can **** in the window channels. I had one '00 Explorer who's driver's side glass would not even go down without help.

I use Liquid Wrench brand foaming silicon spray (Walmart sells it). Using the red straw that comes with the can, put the glass down all the way as spray the glass channels from the top all the way down as far as you can reach. I do this on all my Explorers/Mountaineer once a year and it keeps the windows working smoothly again (in both directions). Try not to spray silicon on the glass, as it's hard to get off.

If you live where there's more dirt and dust you may have to spray the channels more often, but I find doing it once a year is plenty.

Oh, don't bother taking the door apart to try to grease any moving parts. It's not your problem and greasing the window mechanism will not help.

Spraying something in the window channels, while the window is down, will be the best first step. I agree, dirt etc, will accumulate in the felt of those window channels.

Mine was the extreme case, the door is a 91 door bought to repair my wrecked 93 in 1998. The 91 door showed signs of rust along the bottom in 1998, and cost me $650. I passed on two that they wanted $850 for, that was a big mistake. The rust grew, and after two attempts to stop it, the door still works fine, but I have a used 99 door to replace it with now. My cost for the first door, plus $140ish for the window channel, and $75 for the "new" door, makes the old 91 thing way more expensive than if I'd bought the best I could find back then. Be thoughtful when you think about saving money, think about it longer.

 

[nameskreen]

My Mountaineer did the same thing. I tried several things over the years, but they only worked temporarily. The thing that finally worked was Fluid Film. I took the door panels off and sprayed the window track and it's been working perfectly for a couple of years