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Windshield Washers

koda2000

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The PO owner told me that the washers didn't work and they don't, however the tank is full, the pump runs and the line from the pump to the nozzles seems clear. any ideas? i'm thinking bad pump or a clog in the reservoir maybe. does anyone know how to remove the pump? I see it will push back away from the reservoir, but it doesn't seem to pull out.
 



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http://www.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_a_window_washer_pump_on_ford_explorer

I have a 1998 Explorer and this is how I did it. Drain your washer reservoir with a pump or siphon. detach the wiring connector from the pump. By the way the pump is on the lower left hand side of the reservoir if your looking at it from the right side of the vehicle. There's no need to remove the reservoir. detach the two hoses from each side of the pump. Wiggle the pump loose from the reservoir. If you have to, use a screwdriver to help pry it from the reservoir but be gentle. you can leave in the rubber grommett/filter or whatever it's called. To make installing the new pump easier I put a very small amount of silicone spray around the pat of the pump which slides into the grommet. reattach the two hoses and then the electrical connection. You now have a new washer pump.


Amazing what you can find with Google!

MT
 






http://www.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_a_window_washer_pump_on_ford_explorer

I have a 1998 Explorer and this is how I did it. Drain your washer reservoir with a pump or siphon. detach the wiring connector from the pump. By the way the pump is on the lower left hand side of the reservoir if your looking at it from the right side of the vehicle. There's no need to remove the reservoir. detach the two hoses from each side of the pump. Wiggle the pump loose from the reservoir. If you have to, use a screwdriver to help pry it from the reservoir but be gentle. you can leave in the rubber grommett/filter or whatever it's called. To make installing the new pump easier I put a very small amount of silicone spray around the pat of the pump which slides into the grommet. reattach the two hoses and then the electrical connection. You now have a new washer pump.


Amazing what you can find with Google!

MT


yeah, I goggle a lot of things, but I figured someone here had dealt with this problem and could give me a quick answer. so the pump should just pull up and out, right?
 






problem identified and corrected. after draining the reservoir it looked like a Hagfish had been living in there (Goggle it) the screen before the pump was totaled clogged. back flushed the heck out of it and now it works great.

oh, and BTW the pump unplugs from the reservoir by moving straight back towards the firewall, not upward. I knew something was wrong when I removed my pump and nothing ran out of the reservoir. when I stuck my finger in the pump hole, it came out with a bunch of slime.
 






Cool, now it works.

I replaced the map light bulbs in my 00 yesterday, and what a pain in the ASS!

It took about an hour to get the copper foil to stay in place while twisting the bulbs.

MT
 






Cool, now it works.

I replaced the map light bulbs in my 00 yesterday, and what a pain in the ASS!

It took about an hour to get the copper foil to stay in place while twisting the bulbs.

MT

yeah, that damn foil is tricky. you're lucky you didn't tear/ruin it.

next on my list of to-do's:
- instrument cluster light bulb replacement
- passenger side rear door handle replacement (missing the rod)
- Mach radio power board replacement
- passenger side fog light assembly replacement
- driver's interior door panel replacement
- remove wheels to check brakes and see if there's enough meat left to turn the front rotors
- replace broken radio bezel and broken driver's side lower dash panel
- console armrest padding and cover replacement
- rear pinion seal replacement
- IAC valve replacement
- much interior cleaning

i think that will do it for this one. she should be 100% after all that

already done:
- painted new rear door handle
- fixed windshield washers
- removed broken passenger side fog light
- replaced driver's side interior door handle, lubed latch/lock and reconnected lock actuator
- fixed leaking cargo area side windows
- repaired overhead console temp/compass display, which was out
- fixed broken cig lighter hole (temporary fix until i find a replacement radio bezel)
- fixed bent radio antenna
- fixed mis-positioned windshield wiper arms
- restored headlight plastic
- fixed driver's side front window (was jamming in the channel when going down)
- adjusted hood stops down lubed hood latch and fixed nearly broken hood release handle
- fixed one map light bulb which was out (foil thing)

everything else is fine. the truck drives and rides like new with 206k on it (gotta love the V8's). southern truck so zero rust. it looks like it's gonna be a great truck for $1500.
 






I'm down to replacing one piece of leather on the passenger seat and finding some OEM or better replacement floor mats.

The front suspension work was the worst. It's been hot down here and working under the truck was not fun.

But I'm at 72216 miles, and will have a like new 14 year old truck.


MT
 






I'm down to replacing one piece of leather on the passenger seat and finding some OEM or better replacement floor mats.

The front suspension work was the worst. It's been hot down here and working under the truck was not fun.

But I'm at 72216 miles, and will have a like new 14 year old truck.


MT

yeah, I've done the upper/lower ball joint thing, tie-rods and end links on my 2001. took me about 8 hours, but i waited until it was cool out to do it. i hate sweating my a$$ off while working on a car.
 






Koda - I know you have replaced the center console lid on at least one of your vehicles. I got the leather kit over the internet (fixmyford.com) three years ago and replaced mine, but I never could get the leather fixed well to the plastic base. The staples keep pulling out and it is coming apart again. Any advice on how you get yours to stay together??? Thanks, Bob
 






Koda - I know you have replaced the center console lid on at least one of your vehicles. I got the leather kit over the internet (fixmyford.com) three years ago and replaced mine, but I never could get the leather fixed well to the plastic base. The staples keep pulling out and it is coming apart again. Any advice on how you get yours to stay together??? Thanks, Bob

Hi Bob,
yes, i've repaired 2 so far and have 2 more that need doing. I used Zealous Interiors vinyl covers and foam. they are high quality and end up fitting and matching well. I use a pneumatic staple gun with staples that are actually a bit longer than recommended for the repair (because that's what I had). I find the stables are very difficult to get out again. I think this is mainly because of the plastic material the base is made of. perhaps your base is getting brittle and having trouble holding the stables? if you want i'll check and see how long the stables I use are.

here's a pic of one I've done... i'd rate the result a 9.5 out of 10.

109_0023.jpg
 






Hi Bob,
yes, i've repaired 2 so far and have 2 more that need doing. I used Zealous Interiors vinyl covers and foam. they are high quality and end up fitting and matching well. I use a pneumatic staple gun with staples that are actually a bit longer than recommended for the repair (because that's what I had). I find the stables are very difficult to get out again. I think this is mainly because of the plastic material the base is made of. perhaps your base is getting brittle and having trouble holding the stables? if you want i'll check and see how long the stables I use are.

here's a pic of one I've done... i'd rate the result a 9.5 out of 10.

View attachment 80510

Koda - that looks wonderful!! My replacement cover looked almost that good at first (had most trouble with the curved front corners) - but has not stayed together. I would like to know what size staples you used; I just used a regular staple gun (because that's what I had) but now that I have a compressor I'm sure Harbor Freight has a pneumatic gun. Thanks for the advice. Bob
 






Good trouble shooting advice. Have a 96 Explorer with same issue. Took 15 minutes to correct, thanks.
 






Koda - that looks wonderful!! My replacement cover looked almost that good at first (had most trouble with the curved front corners) - but has not stayed together. I would like to know what size staples you used; I just used a regular staple gun (because that's what I had) but now that I have a compressor I'm sure Harbor Freight has a pneumatic gun. Thanks for the advice. Bob

I bought my pneumatic staple gun at Northern Tool years ago. it was around $90 then. you have to watch the air pressure, or the sable can cut right through the material. I find around 62-65 PSI works good for me. as I said, the length stables I have are a bit too long so i'd get something shorter. I just did another one of my armrests today. I found the replacement foam I'd ordered to be a bit thinner (although very comfortable) compared to the OE padding. this meant the staples went in even further, so I backed them out just a bit with a screw driver to avoid having them poke through the top side when you press down on the armrest. the staples I used were 3/8". all-in-all, todays repair came out pretty good (i'll try to remember to post a pic) but the armrest base had a crack in one of the corners and made a slight bump after the repair. i'd rate the result an 8 (but i'm very fussy). I think in a photo it will look just as good as the previous repair I posted. I drove the truck to get my mail and I was amazed what a difference not having a torn armrest had to the overall driving experience.

and yes, the front corners are the hardest part to get right. lots of stretching and pleating.

Update: before/after pics


111_0377.jpg

111_0398.jpg

111_0399.jpg
 






Good trouble shooting advice. Have a 96 Explorer with same issue. Took 15 minutes to correct, thanks.

glad it helped you. I've got to check my '97. the washer's work, but seem down on volume. maybe they're starting to slime up too, or maybe the motor's getting weak.
 






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