XLT Shuddering at 3000 rpm

[whitey1]

Good afternoon all

My wife brought her 2010 Explorer to the dealership and needed to have the shuddering addressed

She was told that it was the universal joint that was causing the problem

One new universal joint later, the shuddering is still there, and now shes being told that its the drive shaft thats causing the shuddering. The mechanic has ordered this part

Would this misdiagnosis be an easy one to make?

Would they be connected?

Would one only be able to diagnose the drive shaft problem upon the installation of the new universal joint?

If they misdiagnosed at the outset should I be on the hook for their misdiagnosis?

The bigger issue is that I was in 2 minds whether she should even get this work done and if we shuld just have traded the car and got something newer. Apart fron the Universal joint, she also needed her brakes done and was told that she would be all in for $2K. Now with the introduction of the drive shaft issue, Im afradid it will creep up to $3k or $4K.


An suggestions or advise would be greatly appreciated

 

[07EddyB]

By shuddering what do you mean. Steady at 3000 - clear before and after? Begins at 3000 and continues? Felt through the steering wheel or the seat? Both? In every gear or only overdrive? Vehicle mileage?

Is it a 2wd or a 4wd? I assume it's a 4.0 since my 4.6 rarely sees 3K during normal driving.

We need more info.

 

[Beachcomber86]

Find a decent local mechanic and pay the diagnosis fee. Most dealerships have parts changers only and not real car guys (and girls). It will save you lots of money. For example, the dealership told me I had low compression on a cylinder and needed a head job. My local guy checked it and told me compression was fine. When I called the dealership, they told me they did not actually put a pressure gauge on the cylinder, but used the computer estimation of compression!!!! That BS almost cost me >$1,000!

I only use the dealership for warranty work, buying tires (price match), and oil changes/rotation.

 

[Dag06XLT]

Agree with above, dealers are simply parts changers and only if a computer tells them. On a previous car my trans started to slight slip during the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Dealer charges $100 to tell me I needed a new $3500 trans. Took it to a local mechanic and he fixed it right I'm the spot in 15 mi. My trans kick-down cable slipped out of adjustment. Didn't even charge me. Oil changes/tire rotation for $35 is the only reason it goes there. Find a good local mechanic, it pays off huge!