98 V8 AWD with bad engine gets junk yard 99 V8 engine

[CDW6212R]

The oil pump drive shaft is held on both ends, by the pump and the block. That shaft cannot get out unless it were to be bent or the oil pump is loosened a lot.

The distributor or synchronizer often doesn't engage the oil pump initially, in the first top part of insertion. You will feel the distributor or S. touch the oil pump drive shaft. With a little turning, or if it's perfect, it will slip down in(turning as it goes)rather easily, with the same pressure all the way down that last 1/2". That's the gear of the cam keeping it from just falling straight down.

there shouldn't really be any resistance for the last small amount. I would do that again, carefully and gently putting it in.

You can drive the oil pump with a long 1/4" extension and 5/16" bit I believe. If you pull a valve cover you could see oil flowing. Of course the oil pump will have a lot of resistance for it to pump oil. If you get some kind of resistance with a drill, I'd bet that you have oil pressure.

Look over the oil pressure sensor wiring carefully, the problem could be just that.

 

[410Fortune]

BIRTHDAY WRENCHING

bad news then FINALLY a little bit of good

okay so I pulled the truck back into the garage/shop

I pulled the CPS, again, DAngit the 98 sensor is fine, no sheered pins on this sucker
I was so hoping it would be easy,
remove coil pack tripod and AC line to have a good look
Everything looks perfect down there

So I get my drill, my snake driver (its a flexible extension for a 1/4" ratchet, about 12" long) and 5/16" socket, drill in reverse, engage oil pump shaft and spin, watching the mechanical pressure gage and NOTHING, NADA, ZIP

Dang now I am frustrated, but hey its my B day, so what I have to pull the engine again, park it for a month or two until I feel like it
Clean up, put tools away

I cant leave well enough alone

I take my primer setup (get tools out again) over to the old 98 block just to have a look and make sure I am doing it right
turn the drill and GLUG GLUG GLUG I am doing it right, even the old 98 engine has oil pump pressure!!

So back to the 99 engine in the truck, I am like well one more time I will try this
so I remove the oil pressure gage hose from the side of the block

get helper to watch the oil port hole and I spin the oil pump shaft again with my drill for about 5 seconds

Good news!

OILwent SHOOTING out!!!

Turns out my new oil pressure gage has a KINK in the plastic line, I cant even blow through it!!

I was happy, I have some sort of oil pumping from the oil pump, the way it shot out leads me to believe we do in fact have oil pressure, how much is the question

So TONIGHT I am going to find TDC AGAIN LOL and re-install the CPS again, fix the KINK in the plastic line and run it again, I EXPECT to see oil pressure

This means the ticking I heard before I shut it down, was a normal exhaust leak I expect to find during the first few heat cycles

StOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOpid factory oil pressure gage/light POS

my guess now is I have corrossion on the oil pressure sensor wire, when I ground it with an aligator clip = gage goes right to the middle

So its likely a loose connection with the wire, regarless whoever buys this truck gets a fancy mechanical oil pressure gage with it for piece of mind

So I am SUPER paranoid, BUT its not my fault

As soon as I heard ticking I shut her down, because I had no oil pressure on the factory gage, even after replacing the sender with a new unit
AND I hooked up a mechanical gage and still had NO PRESSURE
turns out its just my luck, I kinked the feed line.........

so fingers crossed tonight we see ADEQUATE OIL PRESSURE and I can detail this sucker and sell it!! I need the $$$ to pay off my Sport trac!!

Hey at least I know for a FACT my CPS is installed perfectly for the 5th time! HAHAHAHA

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, it's all in the details, and you are working your way through it. I have a new sensor to put on mine also, and for the price it should do more. I plan on a digital gauge and another sensor, but it's hard to stick the sensors all right there at the oil filter. I have almost finished a tap at the back of the block, I just need a hard line made.

 

[Turdle]

Good news!!

I'm sure you remember I have a temp gauge saying my right head was running about 240 degrees for 16 hours. Stupid gauges.

I'm waiting for a replacement sender from auto-meter myself.


I probably would have handled this the same way. I always suspect wiring last, as you should.

 

[410Fortune]

back of the block? I am sure you have planned the location carefully, its diffiuclt at best to access anything back there once its all bolted in

Of course the oil pressure sender on the 5.0L is already NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCESS without removing the ac compressor...

I have been going through the wheel well, below the battery, moving the plastic inner liner out of the way and it still took me 2 hours to remove the factory sender (2 minutes, extension and deep 26mm) and 1:52 to install the new fittings! working blind by feel, tightening the 5/16" line/pressure fitting is fun fun! turn 1/16 of a turn blind, flip wrench over in fingers and try again......drop wrench, repeat!


tonight I am removing the battery tray and possibly AC compressor LOL

sometimes I like the body lift on my 96 and there is something to be said about the oil filter re-locate I use on my BII = SO MUCH EASIER

Thanks for all your help and support, I am kicking myself every hour on the hour for not checking the oil pump and pickup while I had the engine out......

 

[CDW6212R]

We all have projects, that will keep us out of trouble. I had a short "L" shaped piece made for this with the elbow fitting pointing to the right. They couldn't make the bends short enough, so I have the elbow pointing down now. I need a longer steel line made to sweep down and back up to the top. It is very tight back there. I'm being as careful as I can so that I don't end up with any leak. A leak in a fitting back there would not be good, just like a rear seal leaking.

This will give me another oil tap, and I plan to have two sensors mounted on the firewall. It also will give me an oil source for a turbo.

 

[410Fortune]

oh wow! On my BII I used the canton oil filter adapter, I remote mounted my filter with a 4 port filter mount (FL-1A) one line in, one line out, 3rd port = oil pressure gage fitting, 4th port is currently blocked off
a VERY nice solution for getting more oil pressure ports without tapping the block or burying them

 

[410Fortune]

screw this 99 engine POS mother %&^*ing POS!

No oil pressure, I have to pull it again and return it to the junk yard

They better not give me any lip! LOL My wife is due in 2-3 weeks, I have been fighting the POS engine for 3 weeks now, This is my FAULT for not checking before I installed it, all I am asking is they stand behind their POS engine and give me another one with no problems!! Wish me luck!

I was trying to make some $$$ on this truck, LOL and if time is $$$ I am SCREWED!!

Also cost me 5 quarts of oil, 4 gallons of pre mix coolant, some tranny fluid, and an ass load of aggrivation!!

next time I take the oil pan off and prime an engine well before I drop it in the truck
lesson learned

Hold on to your seat folks, we are doing this ALL OVER AGAIN, I am at square 1 except it now has a RED INTAKE, other then that its like a time machine, exactly the same as it was months ago, bad engine, no oil pressure!

 

[CDW6212R]

Shoot, that sucks. I fell the pain, I have had to do many many things more than once. The good part is that you know what you are doing, a novice would be screwed. Good luck with the yard.

 

[99awd50]

so.. with the engine removal with trans in place.. is it merely just the bellhousing bolts and 3 flexplate to converter bolts right.. other than the other misc crap..starter and such... i am doing this motor swap this weekend. ......i bought a 98 with mass water in oil. Had a valve job done on the heads and they were good. new timing chain, gaskets and all... well, just as I was done i pulled out the oil drain plug so when i poured in the water in the radiator water came out the oil pan during the 3rd gallon of water.. so i was like "IM DONE" I ordered a new shortblock from 50resto and it was 839 to my door. it will arrive tomorrow. I am gonna pull the motor from the explorer then transfer everything over to the new motor and then drop it in.

sorry about the troubles with the oil pressure, i will make sure of it prior to dropping in the motor. good luck.. KILL

 

[RacerX]

screw this 99 engine POS mother %&^*ing POS!

No oil pressure, I have to pull it again and return it to the junk yard

They better not give me any lip! LOL My wife is due in 2-3 weeks, I have been fighting the POS engine for 3 weeks now, This is my FAULT for not checking before I installed it, all I am asking is they stand behind their POS engine and give me another one with no problems!! Wish me luck!

I was trying to make some $$$ on this truck, LOL and if time is $$$ I am SCREWED!!

Also cost me 5 quarts of oil, 4 gallons of pre mix coolant, some tranny fluid, and an ass load of aggrivation!!

next time I take the oil pan off and prime an engine well before I drop it in the truck
lesson learned

Hold on to your seat folks, we are doing this ALL OVER AGAIN, I am at square 1 except it now has a RED INTAKE, other then that its like a time machine, exactly the same as it was months ago, bad engine, no oil pressure!

I thought you had this thing solved when you found the kinked oil pressure sender tube. It looks like you were getting some oil pressure - is it just reading too low now?

Thanks for the effort that you put into this thread, including the pics. I didn't even know that there was a later version ('99-'00) of the oil filter adapter. Don't bring that piece back to the salvage yard; if you don't want to use it, I'll buy it to replace my leaking '97 oil cooler version.

Naturally, my local Ford parts counter doesn't even know that the "dry" filter adapter exists. Their parts inquiries only produce the version with the cooling sleeve (and the huge price tag). A part number from that '99 part would be greatly appreciated, when you get the time.

Sure you just don't need an oil pump?

 

[CDW6212R]

Ask Ford for the part for a 98 model, both were available then. They should ask you which you have, then tell them that you want the one without the cooler.

 

[410Fortune]

It likely does just need an oil pump, BUT I paid $$$ for a working engine, so that is what I intend to get, I expect the yard to work with me on this.
The only thing I am taking back to them is the longblock, they dont care anyways, a bad engine is a core to them any which way you slice it
I have parked this truck for a bit, I will dig back into removing the 99 engine next week, shouldnt take long since all the bolts are nice and fresh LOL just a HUGE PITA

ask for oil filter mount from a 2001 5.0L, even Checker auto parts computer asks if it has oil cooler or not when you ask for an oil filter, wanted to confirm the 820-S fits the 99 also, it does

I am hoping to save the manifold and intake gaskets

 

[99awd50]

here is my motor pulling experience.. this is mainly for helping others and for those that are doing searches.. KILL

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2161775#post2161775

 

[Premierexplorer]

Any luck on getting a working engine?

 

[410Fortune]

I will be pulling the engine back out, time permitting

The junk yard I got this 99 engine through is aware of the situation and will help me source a new engine, I am looking at a 2001 with 76K miles

 

[ttbit]

Wow...sorry to hear about your troubles. I just got my Sport Trac running with the 5.0 and now I have to pull it all back apart myself. Darn front seal in the tranny is leaking. ...only because I replaced it so it wouldn't leak.

I really appreciate your engine pulling tips. I yanked both at the same time last time. So...you think I can get to the bellhousing bolts with then engine mounts off and dropped low? I only have standard box wrenches and not the fancy wrenches you showed. Of course, if I need them...I will buy them.

Wish I had some good advice for you. Swapping it might be the best thing though. My engine had been sitting for years and they test started it for me by spraying old fashioned starter fluid in the throttle body because the fuel pump was dead...I took a risk also.

 

[CDW6212R]

How much does it help to go through the console floor hole? I'm going to be doing that next to swap the trans/TC.

 

[ttbit]

Well, pulling the engine brackets and lowering the engine on the front diff gives you room for the two top bolts. I am not sure how I am going to get to the middle two bolts though. I imagine I still need to drop the crossmember. There really is no shortcuts on this thing, it seems. Anyone want to share how they got the rest of their bellhousing bolts out for pulling the engine? If I undo anything else, it is getting to the point where I might as well pull both out together again.

Here is the amount of room it gives you, for those interested:

 

[CDW6212R]

Have you tried going through the floor under the console? That's how people get to the top transfer case bolts. It might help for the bell housing bolts.