Serious Explorations Ford Explorer and Ranger Message Board
#1 Resource for Ford Explorer and Ranger Owners - By Enthusiasts, for Enthusiasts.


Ford Explorer Generation Guide

EF Swag Store 2015 Ford Explorer Forums Elite Membership Chat Room My Posts Reviews Explorer Photo Gallery
Go Back   Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations" > Ford Explorer Ranger Repair - Troubleshooting - Modifications & Detailing Forums > 1995 - 2001 Explorer Ranger Mountaineer - Sport thru '03 - 2nd Generation > Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers

Notices

Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers Questions related to non-modified 1995-2001 Explorer, Mountaineer, Ranger and '02+ Sports and Sport Trac. Problem solving, maintenance, TSB, service bulletins, owner reviews, specifications.

Heater Core Replacement - The Missing Steps

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 01-16-2012, 07:04 PM   #1
ttbit
Maryville,TN
'01 ST 5.0 AWD
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 254

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Heater Core Replacement - The Missing Steps

I am just wrapping up a heater core install in my 2001 Sport Trac and thought I would share some gotchas I ran into. There is an online "howto" with videos by a certified mechanic that can be found using a Google search, but there are some very important steps missing.

When removing the blower fan/evap assy, there is another stud inside the passenger compartment. Also there is a vaccum connection you need to undo:



There are connectors you will want to remove before unbolting the dash assy:



There is a bolt by the accelerator pedal that will allow the dash to move down a little more to give clearance.



There is a 4th stud in the engine compartment holding the heater box in place. It was very hard to get to, in my case. This is not shown in the video or the Ford manual that I own. It states there are 4 studs, but only points to 3. Here is the 4th one:





Once you have all the proper bolts removed, you can easily remove the top cover to the heater box assy to pull the core, unlike in the video where it is not nearly far back enough to remove. For me, it was still very tight getting the core out and in, but doable. That interior computer the mechanic is talking about in the video is actually the engine PCM. It can easily be removed from the engine compartment if you want to pull the heat sink.

I have the big console from a '96 Explorer, so I removed it to make room. I did not have to remove the seats, but it might make it a little easier if you do.

Hope this helps someone out.

Don
ttbit is offline   Reply With Quote
( Join the Elite Explorers )

For only $20 per year you can become an Elite Explorer member. Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose and fix problems yourself, and learn which modifications really work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members can change the forum "styles" to eliminate most ads, including blue underlined links, and no ads on photos. Other benefits include the ability to store 1000 Private Messages, upload photo attachments directly to your posts and to our Photo Gallery and more. Join the Elite Explorers today.


Old 01-16-2012, 11:22 PM   #2
drdoom
VA
1997 XLT 4.0 SOHC 4WD
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,271

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Good info, thanks for sharing!
drdoom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2012, 08:15 PM   #3
Tekreck
2002 Explorer XLT
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 16

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Smile

It looks like you have to remove the engine to get to that 4th stud.
Tekreck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2012, 09:09 PM   #4
ttbit
Maryville,TN
'01 ST 5.0 AWD
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 254

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekreck View Post
It looks like you have to remove the engine to get to that 4th stud.
That's what I thought. The marks on my hands are starting to go away finally.
ttbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2012, 09:13 PM   #5
Turdle
Moderator Masterbaker
Humboldt, Kansas
 
Turdle's Avatar
2000 Mounty
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 25,524

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 343 Post(s)
Because this repair is often a killer for the truck, I have stuck this thread. Thanks!!!
Turdle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2012, 09:17 PM   #6
ttbit
Maryville,TN
'01 ST 5.0 AWD
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 254

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Great! I hope it helps someone.
ttbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 12:27 AM   #7
neepawa
Los Angeles, CA
2001 Explorer
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 4

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Wow, I wish you had posted this a few week earlier. I just finished doing mine, and the few missing details that you showed were a real challenge. I also watched the videos, and other than being out of sequence and missing information, they were very helpful.

The one thing you didn't touch on (and the videos skipped) was getting the center console out. There are two bolts behind the trip computer (at the front) and two under the cup holders. But to get it out, I had to remove the rear cup holders and attach a come-along to the steel frame (at the bottom). I hooked the other end of the come along to the tie-downs in the back of the explorer. The console has to move back about 2" to unhook from the fingers that are under the armrest area. I read other posts that said you can pull it by hand, or beat it with a hammer on the bracket under the Kleenex holder. That may work for some, but I needed the come-along.

Putting it back together was actually easier than I thought. Good luck
neepawa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 05:02 PM   #8
ttbit
Maryville,TN
'01 ST 5.0 AWD
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 254

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Oh yeah. I swapped a 96 Ex full console into my 2001 ST some years ago, so my console is custom mounted. It was a pain to get that thing out the first time.
ttbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2012, 01:58 AM   #9
lizardflats
Northern California
'96 XLT V-8
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Great post!

I ran into all those problems doing my heater core a year ago or so. I posted some of the problems to another thread, but this is a great summary with the pictures.

I even got a PM from someone having problems and it was the 4th nut holding the heater box on that is behind the center of the engine. I had to lay across the intake manifold in order to reach down to that one.
lizardflats is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2012, 09:57 PM   #10
ttbit
Maryville,TN
'01 ST 5.0 AWD
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 254

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Quote:
Originally Posted by lizardflats View Post
I even got a PM from someone having problems and it was the 4th nut holding the heater box on that is behind the center of the engine. I had to lay across the intake manifold in order to reach down to that one.
hahaha...That was me. I gave you credit in another thread too!

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...95#post2884895

It was frustrating enough for me to do a write-up.
ttbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2012, 11:49 PM   #11
lizardflats
Northern California
'96 XLT V-8
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
@ttbit: thanks!
It's all of us helping each other that make this place so cool.
That mechanic in the video looked and sounded SO convincing, but he obviously took some shortcuts (or maybe he was TRYING to mess with our minds as we struggled after watching his "how to").

Your post is a great documentation of the pitfalls.
lizardflats is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2012, 11:56 PM   #12
lizardflats
Northern California
'96 XLT V-8
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
@ttbit: thanks!

Last edited by lizardflats; 02-27-2012 at 11:59 PM. Reason: duplicate post
lizardflats is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2012, 07:07 AM   #13
SoNic67
Newport News, VA
2001 V8 (Eddie Bauer) AWD
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,313

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by neepawa View Post
The one thing you didn't touch on (and the videos skipped) was getting the center console out. There are two bolts behind the trip computer (at the front) and two under the cup holders. But to get it out, I had to remove the rear cup holders and attach a come-along to the steel frame (at the bottom). I hooked the other end of the come along to the tie-downs in the back of the explorer. The console has to move back about 2" to unhook from the fingers that are under the armrest area. I read other posts that said you can pull it by hand, or beat it with a hammer on the bracket under the Kleenex holder. That may work for some, but I needed the come-along.
Dude, I wish you posted that in the section about changing the O2 sensors!!!
I am in the same situation, my center console won't move at all! Your ideea is great, I might try it again like that... once I can borrow a comealong.
SoNic67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2013, 04:25 AM   #14
crunchie_frog
Lexington, SC
2000 5.0 AWD XLT
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 294

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Thanks ttbit for the tips! Not sure I would have been successful doing this job without them. How long did it take for the cuts to heal on your hands for the 4th bolt? I was hoping I could manage to squeeze out the heater core without removing the 4th bolt, but I could not. For those who are going to do this, I used a regular 11 mm socket with stubby ratchet and once I broke it loose, I used a thumbwheel and socket to back it off. I went in from the top and it helps to have your hand and forearm greasy and sweaty to slide between the parts to get to the bolt.

Also, for the center console I removed the rear vent system so I could see the connection fittings between the console and the floor. Mine was stuck / slightly rusted, and used PB blaster and tapped it with a hammer forward to break it loose and I was then able to pull it back and off.
crunchie_frog is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2013, 07:52 PM   #15
ttbit
Maryville,TN
'01 ST 5.0 AWD
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 254

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchie_frog View Post
How long did it take for the cuts to heal on your hands for the 4th bolt?
I can tell you that the metal cuts are better than the plastic ones.

Glad you got it worked out!
ttbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2014, 10:52 AM   #16
bigcrunch
2000 v8
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 178

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
I finished replacing the heater core in my 2000 mounty, I have these 3 screws left over from the front dash. Anyone have any idea where these zinc coated screws are installed?


bigcrunch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2014, 07:06 PM   #17
drdoom
VA
1997 XLT 4.0 SOHC 4WD
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,271

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Glove box hinge?
drdoom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2014, 07:34 AM   #18
bigcrunch
2000 v8
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 178

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by drdoom View Post
Glove box hinge?


No have that covered, but thanks..
bigcrunch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2014, 10:46 PM   #19
dr224
Houston
1995 Ford Explorer Sport
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks.

most of mine went to the metal panel under the steering wheel/column area. 1 was in the center by the accelerator pedal holding the dash panel shown in the picture.

This post helped me save a bunch of time. That 4th screw though was a sneaky lil sucker. I got it with a 11mm socket and a swivel joint socket adaptor and my socket wrench. I didn't release my a/c freon, just pulled the blower and evaporator. It's been a pain. Next time I'll cough up the money to do it(if I can). Well now I have some extra cash to buy some Valentine's day gifts for my wife.
dr224 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Suggest this thread to friends:

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
No Heat and no flow to the heater core MtrJunkie Explorer, Ranger, A/C & Heater systems HVAC 3 02-25-2012 04:34 PM
My 1st Gen Heater Core Replacement Diary Glacier991 Explorer, Ranger, A/C & Heater systems HVAC 25 11-05-2011 08:23 PM
99 Explorer heater core replacement. vluke Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers 3 12-29-2009 08:04 AM
Heater core replacement on a 1990 Aerostar. papabear57 Aerostar Forum 3 11-29-2009 07:14 PM



Join the "Elite Explorers" Today!



Search Explorer Forum


Top of Page

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:29 PM.



US Flag
We Support Our Troops!

Explore the site!


Copyright 2014 - 1996 Rick Horwitz Photography



Ford Motor Company is not involved in the management of this site in any way.



All tips on this site are for use at your own risk and discretion.

Modifying the suspension on any vehicle will cause changes to its handling characteristics.



Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.