03 lincoln aviator

[CDW6212R]

It sounds like the right time to check the PCV. Make sure it is the proper one, different units have differing amounts of air flow, and restriction. Comparing PCV's at a parts store will find a lot of difference in performance, functions etc. I'd bet yours is the right one, given it's special and requires wiring input. But you might check for the proper function. As the others said, it's desirable because it applies a slight vacuum to the crankcase, to reduce pressure inside, and blowby.

Avoid a catch can, those basically defeat the PCV function, by creating a connection to the atmosphere.

 

[jd4242]

It sounds like the right time to check the PCV. Make sure it is the proper one, different units have differing amounts of air flow, and restriction. Comparing PCV's at a parts store will find a lot of difference in performance, functions etc. I'd bet yours is the right one, given it's special and requires wiring input. But you might check for the proper function. As the others said, it's desirable because it applies a slight vacuum to the crankcase, to reduce pressure inside, and blowby.

Avoid a catch can, those basically defeat the PCV function, by creating a connection to the atmosphere.

Yea im 100% sure its the right one.if it works or not i dont know..

Yea catch can isn't even a option for me..i like pvc system just needs a oil separator

 

[CDW6212R]

I like the idea of an oil separator, and I'll need one for when I add boost. But I need to learn more about them, many seem to reduce the effectiveness of the PCV system, and end up collecting a lot of oil(more than was before being ingested). Keep an eye out for types which more efficiently catch oil, but not oil that used to be returned to the crankcase by the PCV.

 

[Slick Fan]

Here is a picture. .think i may have used 2" holes now i look at it again..lol

Thanks for posting your air box pic, that makes more sense to me now.

Also, if you do find a trans pan with a dipstick, I'm interested in one too. Having no dipstick is just dumb, IMO. I hate never being able to check my fluid level, nor the condition of the fluid without crawling around on the floor.

 

[CDW6212R]

I saw a pan yesterday or Saturday in a thread here, which had a dipstick. It was not cheap though, the kit was around $360 I think, and the pan is deeper, near the cat pipe at the front. I don't recall which it specified to be for, the 5R55W or S, or are they the same pan?

 

[CorbinDallas]

Check out his posts. He also has a great write-up on helical gear diffs.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ade-and-beef-up-5r55w-s-transmissions.318184/

 

[CorbinDallas]

Haha, i just read the last post on the thread, and it seems like you already found it

 

[CDW6212R]

That was the thread I had run across. Check out the TFS-1012 pan, that one is "only" $306 and has a dipstick. They have one without a dipstick for $175(TFS-1012-1), so watch the part number when you hunt them.

 

[jd4242]

Yep.i posted in that thread..they have a very good one over on the mustang forums about the "level 10" kit..its a full write up and review. .its said to handle 3x the power over stock

If i ever do a full rebuild thats the kit im gonna use..im going to do the transgo shift kit with the new updated solenoids probably this weekend or next weekend..

At this point im just pretending its not smoking and fixing everything else..then saving up for a forged stroker kit.cant decide if going with the oversized piston bore sleeves are worth it or not..definitely going with a stroked forged crank though and going to port the crap outa these heads

 

[CDW6212R]

Level 10 is a good company, though they have become very expensive since they began. I bought and installed their AOD big kit in a 91 AOD about 25 years ago.

That was when Kolene steels and blue frictions were the big rage. Those have gotten a poor reputation since the 90's, people thinking they are for race only and not likely to survive 50k-150k miles etc. I don't know the truth of it, just that most people say avoid the black steels, "race" frictions, and Kevlar bands. The OEM quality of frictions is much better than they were in 1990 and before. Now an OEM rebuild kit is nearly enough for most builds. Just pick and choose from other available aftermarket upgrades.

I hope that the 5R55 transmissions all become nearly as reliable as the 4R70's are, which all began as the AOD. Fingers crossed,

 

[Slick Fan]

I saw a pan yesterday or Saturday in a thread here, which had a dipstick. It was not cheap though, the kit was around $360 I think, and the pan is deeper, near the cat pipe at the front. I don't recall which it specified to be for, the 5R55W or S, or are they the same pan?

I'm not sure if they use the same pan, I'll have to check that out. That price has me kinda backing off on getting one now. LOL
I'll go peruse the site & see if I can spot the thread.

 

[jd4242]

I'm not sure if they use the same pan, I'll have to check that out. That price has me kinda backing off on getting one now. LOL
I'll go peruse the site & see if I can spot the thread.

Im 99% sure they do..thats going to be about the cheapest your find a deep one and with a dipstick..they are made out of Platinum apparently

 

[CDW6212R]

How about the TFS pan, the TFS-1012 pan, that one is "only" $306 and has a dipstick? They have one without a dipstick for $175(TFS-1012-1), so watch the part number when you hunt them. I didn't notice there were two pans mentioned in that thread. I saw that today and posted of it above in #228 post. Check that on the Summit site, it looked like about the best deal.

The PA pan and the TFS pan both said they add two quarts, so they are deeper than stock. I saw reviews from an 05 and 06 Mustang, so they seem to be usable in a car. I hate to think of how low those hang under a Mustang, 2" might be too low.

 

[jd4242]

I maybe on to something. .i took the pcv tube off and it was dripping with clean fresh oil..

I capped the nipple on the intake and started the truck..i then stuck my finger over the pcv valve in the passengers side valve cover and felt suction. .im like 99.9% i shouldnt..the valve should shut close if back pressure comes from the intake towards the valve. .

Im pretty sure its bad.im making a oil separator right now and guess gonna order a new pcv valve..im driving with the valve open right now and the intake nipple capped..gonna see if it stops smoking..yes i know with or if the valve is bad im sucking in unregistered air from the other side..

 

[Joe in NY]

I'm confused about what you just said..

On the explorers (4.6L 2V), on the Drivers Side Head there is an atmospheric vent and tube going to the intake duct and is connected after the MAFs but before the TB. The Passenger Side Head has the actual PCV that goes to the intake manifold and connects after the TB. This should always be under vacuum when running. The PCV allows air to go from the crankcase to the intake manifold, but not vice versa.

 

[jd4242]

I'm confused about what you just said..

On the explorers (4.6L 2V), on the Drivers Side Head there is an atmospheric vent and tube going to the intake duct and is connected after the MAFs but before the TB. The Passenger Side Head has the actual PCV that goes to the intake manifold and connects after the TB. This should always be under vacuum when running. The PCV allows air to go from the crankcase to the intake manifold, but not vice versa.

Correct. .i removed the tube that goes into the intake manifold after the tb,the one that gets vacuum "ALL" the time(when vacuum is present in the manifold).i plugged that nipple..but left the pcv valve installed without the tube..only on the passengers side

The driverside does get vacuum AND ""atmospheric air/fresh air""..typically the one that goes to intake (passengers )pulls more vacuum making the driverside a ""atmospheric/fresh air intake"" 99% of the time..if you plug the intake one, the driverside will now pull a vacuum (not made to do that tho) and pull fresh air in the the hole in the passengers valve cover..if the pcv valve is installed it will close and not alow fresh air to be pulled keeping unregistered air being sucked in the driverside. .it also will close if you motor backfires or if the manifold pressure exceeds the crankcase pressure. .

If you have ever pulled a old school pcv valve out you could blow on the top part and the ball would close the valve..or suck on the oily bottom part of it and see if the ball closes...

Thats basically what i did..i pulled a vacuum from the bottom side of the pcv and it stayed open..it should only allow vacuum to be pulled from the top side..


More confused? ? I suck at explaining stuff

 

[jd4242]

But as a updated. .the last 4 times ive started it with the pcv intake capped it did not smoke nearly as much..a very very small poof and i think thats just residual oil in the manifold..

I made a separator. .used one from harbor freight. .used 1/4"npt by 1/2" barb fitting and cut the passengers side tube up..the filter from harbor freight has a drain that closes when air pressure is applied but since we are pulling vacuum i had to add washers under the C-clip to keep the drain closed..

I run this same setup in my explorer and ranger..both work well..We shall see how it works in this truck

And the washers to keep the drain closed under vacuum. .

 

[jd4242]

And installed. .fit perfectly, even looks good in there

 

[jd4242]

Well just started after sitting for about 3 hours and it smoked like a freight train..so doubt it was residual oil..

Haven't bought a new pvc but doubt this is the reason the truck is smoking so bad..

Back to crossing my fingers the rings seat someday...

 

[Joe in NY]

Neat setup.. Bummer about the smoking.

I do understand how a PCV valve is supposed to work.

So for the DOHC motor, does it have two hoses going to the driver valve cover?