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03 lincoln aviator

Neat setup.. Bummer about the smoking.

I do understand how a PCV valve is supposed to work.

So for the DOHC motor, does it have two hoses going to the driver valve cover?
Single hose
 



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Well did the driverside front upper balljoint today,nice and easy..

Went to do the rear wheel bearings and before i even thought about taking anything other than tire off,i could see i was in for alot more work..

EVERY bushing and upper balljoint is bad in the rear on BOTH sides..the upper control bushings are completely shot and the sway bar bushings are completely missing..so to say the least i didnt even mess with the wheel bearings..

I've ordered ALL bushings (2 upper,upper balljoint,2 lower,lower middle knuckle bushings,""toe link with balljoint/bushings" and sway bar links with bushings) $300 later..going to tackle one side per weekend starting next weekend..

If anyone is keeping track that makes grand total too $6,300 spent so far on this truck

Screenshot_2016-09-24-15-18-35_zpsvztgziyg.png


Sway bar bushings are COMPLETELY gone..
20160924_134754_zpsgmvxouap.jpg


Driverside still had 2 hanging on..
20160924_134808_zpshf7chsqv.jpg
 






Got a new toy today..gonna do gibson catback,efan,TB and 3.73 before i take it down to my guy for a good 93 tune and a good mpg tune for my girl..

Its the SCT 3000..my guy told me to get it because im doing all custom tunes anyways..paid $100
20160925_153507_zps1kx11ldl.jpg
 






Don't forget the electric TB supercharger, before the tune.

Good buy there, those are still not cheap. I have one old first model and a 3rd, but you need one for each vehicle you modify.
 






Don't forget the electric TB supercharger, before the tune.

Good buy there, those are still not cheap. I have one old first model and a 3rd, but you need one for each vehicle you modify.
Electric tb supercharger ?? Huh or you saying supercharger should be in that list also??lol im thinking a mid mount turbo actually. .right where the BIG cat is..but thats wayyy wayy down road..
 






I was funnin at the joke of a device, that's a fan mounted ahead of the TB. I think they used to show up on eBay a lot.

If you can find a place to locate the air cleaner and filter so they don't ingest any water, the remote turbo is a great system.
 






I was funnin at the joke of a device, that's a fan mounted ahead of the TB. I think they used to show up on eBay a lot.

If you can find a place to locate the air cleaner and filter so they don't ingest any water, the remote turbo is a great system.
O hahah yea i know what your talking about..hey those things are good for 500hp.dont think this motor could handle that yet..lol
 






What do you do about the stereo, are you a stock kind of person or the boom box type, or quality original sound type?

I ask because not many OEM stereos are worth keeping stock, and there is another old school amp on eBay I'd suggest. I already own 4-5 of them so I have enough I think for my cars. I still have the only two I ever bought new, and now 35 years later they are still nearly the best you can buy in the power range.

If you could use a 4x35w amp, consider the Nakamichi PA350 on eBay. They often auction for $140-$150 or so, this one is $125BIN. I gave $320 for mine when new in 1981, they were worth it given the zero distortion and long long lifespan. The spec says 0.003% distortion, most amps these days are 1% or .5% if it's a better one. 35w per channel doesn't sound like much I know, but it will be loud enough to run most people away.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201629595569?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 






What do you do about the stereo, are you a stock kind of person or the boom box type, or quality original sound type?

I ask because not many OEM stereos are worth keeping stock, and there is another old school amp on eBay I'd suggest. I already own 4-5 of them so I have enough I think for my cars. I still have the only two I ever bought new, and now 35 years later they are still nearly the best you can buy in the power range.

If you could use a 4x35w amp, consider the Nakamichi PA350 on eBay. They often auction for $140-$150 or so, this one is $125BIN. I gave $320 for mine when new in 1981, they were worth it given the zero distortion and long long lifespan. The spec says 0.003% distortion, most amps these days are 1% or .5% if it's a better one. 35w per channel doesn't sound like much I know, but it will be loud enough to run most people away.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201629595569?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
All the stock speakers and sub still work just fine..the cd player doesnt work but hear thats very common
 






Turns out this SCT hand held is locked to another vehicle. .the guy said he would refund my money or work out a deal..lets see if he shows up..otherwise i got a $100 brick,called SCT and they will unlock it for $150
 






Turns out this SCT hand held is locked to another vehicle. .the guy said he would refund my money or work out a deal..lets see if he shows up..otherwise i got a $100 brick,called SCT and they will unlock it for $150

Ouch, that's not a happy thing. The old owner is supposed to be restore the vehicle with the original program, and that's in the flasher. I hope you can get back in contact with him, that would be cheaper than the $150, slower but cheaper.
 






Well today i downshift to get over and all it did was SLIP when it shifted...it still drives in any gear but if you accelerate hard the rpms go up like its tryn to haul butt but it doesnt go..its like nothing is happening as if you was holding the break down slightly and trying to accelerate. .

Im really hoping its not the converter. .im going to do the shift kit and solenoids as soon as i can afford the solenoid pack..

We dont have any work at work this week or next,think i got 11 hours this week!! So going to be really really broke for next 2 weeks..
 






Ouch, that sounds like slipping. Did you replace the EPC solenoid recently, and I haven't read your whole thread, but how old is the fluid? That sounds like hopefully a fluid pressure issue, which can be the solenoid or VB issues, and not the hard parts.
 






Ouch, that sounds like slipping. Did you replace the EPC solenoid recently, and I haven't read your whole thread, but how old is the fluid? That sounds like hopefully a fluid pressure issue, which can be the solenoid or VB issues, and not the hard parts.
No i haven't. .is that part of the solenoid pack?

I haven't done tha pack or shift kit yet..just the servos. .the fluid looked good and i topped it off after the doing the servos
 






The EPC is the main pressure control, and critical for the 5R and newer automatics. The computer has full control of the pressure with the EPC, so you can't have that one getting old and worn. The early 5R55E EPC was super high, $125 as I recall, but now they've come down to $75 or so I think.

I'd do that EPC for sure, and if you can it soon, the Sonnax pressure regulator best for your trans. There are several individual Sonnax parts and kits for most common transmissions. I like their VB o-ring kits and the PR for helping the performance, plus the solenoids you think it needs based on mileage.

The VB kits are great of course, the aftermarket has just come up with more/other little thing to improve things. Drive it easy on the shifts, let off just an instant before it shifts, then you can use more throttle in the next gear, until the next shift. I notice any poor shifting usually when the trans is cold, like the mornings we have now. My 95 Crown Vic has a little weakness in its two first gear shifts, and I don't push it right when it's going to shift(I let off a bit until it shifts).
 






The EPC is the main pressure control, and critical for the 5R and newer automatics. The computer has full control of the pressure with the EPC, so you can't have that one getting old and worn. The early 5R55E EPC was super high, $125 as I recall, but now they've come down to $75 or so I think.

I'd do that EPC for sure, and if you can it soon, the Sonnax pressure regulator best for your trans. There are several individual Sonnax parts and kits for most common transmissions. I like their VB o-ring kits and the PR for helping the performance, plus the solenoids you think it needs based on mileage.

The VB kits are great of course, the aftermarket has just come up with more/other little thing to improve things. Drive it easy on the shifts, let off just an instant before it shifts, then you can use more throttle in the next gear, until the next shift. I notice any poor shifting usually when the trans is cold, like the mornings we have now. My 95 Crown Vic has a little weakness in its two first gear shifts, and I don't push it right when it's going to shift(I let off a bit until it shifts).
What Sonnax parts arn't included or covered by the shift kits..i didnt wanna by sonnax parts if the shift kits comes with the basic same parts or their parts do the same thing

So the EPC doesn't come in the shift kit or in the solenoid pack correct? ?
 






Each trans is different as to what parts a VB kit covers etc. The EPC is separate in the trans prior to the 5R55W/S/N, but I'm not sure if the pack you have to get includes it or not. That should be easy to tell though.

The VB kit will have some kind of new pressure regulator valve, but often they will have another useful valve etc, to help. Check the kit you are looking at, they will list which parts are there, to figure out if anything else may help and not be a duplicate part. I have not looked at an VB kits for later models than the 5R55E, so I can't help to say what is needed for yours. But it isn't too hard to figure out, it just takes a while to track down all of the available parts, to compare.

Your computer with new programming can help a lot with pressure as well as timing, a programmer can often help make shifting stronger that way.
 






Each trans is different as to what parts a VB kit covers etc. The EPC is separate in the trans prior to the 5R55W/S/N, but I'm not sure if the pack you have to get includes it or not. That should be easy to tell though.

The VB kit will have some kind of new pressure regulator valve, but often they will have another useful valve etc, to hel
p. Check the kit you are looking at, they will list which parts are there, to figure out if anything else may help and not be a duplicate part. I have not looked at an VB kits for later models than the 5R55E, so I can't help to say what is needed for yours. But it isn't too hard to figure out, it just takes a while to track down all of the available parts, to compare.

Your computer with new programming can help a lot with pressure as well as timing, a programmer can often help make shifting stronger that way.
Yea i cant find much info on what the kit includes and doesnt. .what i do find is confusing. .from what i see is either they just do the shift kit or say they like to do the shift kit combined with sonnax parts but never say which parts..

I dont think the EPC is part of the solenoid pack..is there a way to test it with it still installed? ?

I saw a video say to test the converter is to get it to lock at idle in gear..if truck stalls normally means the converter is good...but it didnt say how to get it to full lock at idle in gear,something about the TSS or something makes it lock

This is the 5r55s.if you cant tell i know NOTHING about auto trans
 









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yea. all the solenoids and controllers are in the pack. it makes it simple. and solenoid problems just replace the whole pack. just a little expensive. i know its not the newest version i would still try the one i gave you. and if it helps you will know its the problem. that one only had one issue front the trans i pulled out of. hard shift into reverse.
 






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