Bitten by the (SAS) bug!

Since I've been driving the Ranger a whole lot lately, and the Mounty has been sitting, a SAS project has been taking shape in my mind. I've been reading registries and have some ideas.

I want to do a SAS unlike anything I've seen for a few reasons. I want a low COG, moderate tire size medium travel build. My overall height would only be slightly higher than it is now with the 4" suspension lift. I'd work the fenders a little and run the tires I have until they are gone and then possibly bump to 34's.

Why? I still occasionally need to tow heavyish stuff and I'd still like to be able to drive this thing at high speeds and longer trips. Theoretically, this would be similar to a *eep Grand Cherokee, a solid axle daily driver.

The general plan-

Rubicon D44 with factory 4.10's and air locker.
12" or 16" Coilovers
Pretty long radius arms with big ole joints for nice flex
Keep the Superlift leaves I just bought and leave the rear as-is.
Utilize the ABS sensors in the Rubicon axle to keep the ABS
New wheels to accommodate the bolt pattern on the new front axle and spacers/adapters for the rear axle.

I'm too big of a puss to wheel this super hard, the body is too nice still, the 44 should be plenty, the extra travel will be nice and the reliability of a solid axle will be nice. IFS is hell on tires.

The nice thing is I won't have to have gears or a locker, I can buy a brand new axle complete for $1400. Pricey I know, but I think a used one can be had for far less.

This will be a long time coming, I plan to start collecting parts slowly and on the cheap to make this a wallet friendly build. (ha! ha!)

Thoughts?

 

[Dannyboy]

I I can get some wheel adapters and run F150 wheels all the way around.

be careful picking up F150 wheels, I got a free set of OEM wheels from an 03 that I could have swore were going to fit my Dana 44 as rollers when I was doing the swap. They must have been within millimeters but they did not fit. I looked at that link, it looks like they are 5x135 which I know is just under 5.5, you would need something more like a 5x140

 

[MountaineerGreen]

He's in AR... no inspection or anything else. If it has insurance on it and can move under its own power its "street legal" here. :

Shh...... he needs to be my low CoG (inspection proof) V8 SAS guinea pig!

Yeah, AR vehicle code is pretty lax- there is a guy driving an unrepaired rollover FSB.

Don't worry Aaron, it will be low COG for certain.

I'm thinking of doing a 3 link on the front with c/o's. I can get the johnny joints and DOM cheaper than a set of cage arms or those rubicon express long arms. Plus, A 3 link with powdercoated bars will be pretty pimpin.

 

[bt93]

I got a FREE D44 from a 83 Jeep Grand Wagoneer for ya!

 

[IZwack]

I got a FREE D44 from a 83 Jeep Grand Wagoneer for ya!

Doesnt that come with a vacuum disconnect center (83-85 FSJs) ?

 

[MountaineerGreen]

IZ- It is a vac dico axle, but I kind of like that kind of stuff. The wagoneer forum members like them, some Heepers even seek them out and swap them in. The disconnect allows for tight turns in 4low without getting out and unlocking hubs.

We went and picked it up tonight- pictures to come shortly.

 

[lifeguard379]

You can make it a cable disco, cant you?

 

[MountaineerGreen]

You can make it a cable disco, cant you?

I believe there is a conversion kit available- I may end up doing that on it before its over. I do really like the idea of a selectable front diff.

Pictures:

Shag Carpet!

I'm going to pull all useable parts from this, then BT93 and I are going to part out what will sell, the rest will go to the junkyard.



Does anyone know if I can use the steering box on this thing?

 

[IZwack]

Thats cool about the axle MountaineerGreen -- as long as your happy with it

As for the steering gearbox - thats going to be an inboard mounted box thats short (as opposed to tall like the Toyota IFS box). Of course you can make it work and fit but I personally prefer the outboard ones for ease of installation. Also, since you have the 5.0 engine, the steering linkage might get in the way of an inboard gearbox. Dunno though, try looking at Section's thread since his rig is 5.0.

 

[Turdle]

So it begins then-
Those wheels are actually kind of interesting-

 

[IZwack]

Those wheels are actually kind of interesting-

Yeah, FSJ-ers are often pretty interested in those wheels (6x5.5 pattern).

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I wouldn't mind powder coating the insides edges, leaving the face of them aluminum. Kind of like the now popular DC-1's hunh?

Oddly enough the Vac disco axles were only used 83 and part of 84. I'm going to pull the diffy cover and see what makes it tick. I just hope it won't interfere with a locker.

Suggestions on a suitable exterior mounted gear box donor vehicle?

 

[MountaineerGreen]

be careful picking up F150 wheels, I got a free set of OEM wheels from an 03 that I could have swore were going to fit my Dana 44 as rollers when I was doing the swap. They must have been within millimeters but they did not fit. I looked at that link, it looks like they are 5x135 which I know is just under 5.5, you would need something more like a 5x140

You are correct, OEM wheels won't work. That kind of stinks- I like the OEM look.

I wonder if there are any 6 on 5.5 OEM wheels out there- I don't care what brand.

I may not convert the front knuckles, I am going to have to run adapters in the back anyway, the 5 to 6 lug adapters are available and the same price as the 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5.5. The black steel wheels are the same price for either pattern.

Is there any disadvantage to using 6 lug wheels?

EDIT: It appears that Cheby, Toyrota, Nicean all use 6 on 5.5 wheels- now to find some good looking wheels cheap.

http://www.okoffroad.com/editorial-boltpattern.htm

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Score on the axle donor. Look at CDSL's SAS thread for his outside the frame steering box, there are some decent photos.

Oh, and I heart my disconnect-able front axle, too.

 

[btimm86]

dude that waggy is pimpin, slap some bald ass 40inch groundhogs on there and you'll be set.

 

[mounty71]

Why not use the FSJ wheels, i really like those and powdercoated like you said or a dark gray like on your truck, i think they'd look great on your mountaineer.

I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on this, i love the kind of trucks that can perform well offroad but also look great driving down the road all cleaned up, and i've always thought your truck had a really clean look.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Got the BOM for the axle- 2.72 Ratio It's a wonder it ever even moved!

I pushed that big ole heavy lug in the shop today to begin the teardown. Took everything I had to move it, then I went and got a backhoe to push it the rest of the way in. That thing weighs a ton!

I got it jacked up to have a look at the axle- this thing is a piece- leaks, mud caked everywhere, rust on the body. But it is 25 years old and has 81,000 miles on it. :thumbsup;

I've got to look into the 5 on 4.5 to 6 on 5.5 adapters some more Section525 almost kept the six lug hubs, but changed to 5 on 5.5 because of the odd adapters for the rear.

I think I need a Toyota IFS steering box for my steering, the pitman arm is going to have to face backwards, a forward mounted one would keep me from running / mounting coils or coilovers.

Section525's SAS thread is helpful if you can wade through the 50 pages!

 

[FROADER]

Go through his Registry instead. He has most of the pics from the build thread in it just for that reason of his build thread being jacked.

 

[bt93]

I'm anxious to start rippin her apart!! Not sure how I feel about pullin the mounty apart though.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Ahh, yes, Registry thread much better.

Nobody, and I mean nobody has close pictures of their panhard bar mounts. I'm trying to figure out if I need to outboard my mount or inboard it, and whether to run it straight up on the axle or offset to the front or rear.

What sucks about most of this is I am going to have to cut out all my IFS stuff just to stick the axle under there and figure out what I need. I can't figure how long of C/O's to run or how high to mount them, panhard bar mounts, 3 link bars, etc.

I also am going to have to build a section525eqsue tranny crossmember.

Sheesh- this is going to take a while.

 

[IZwack]

Its fun -- and itll all come together in sequence. The first and most important thing is the steering (after the axle is located). Nothing else takes priority over the steering because the steering can not be moved and you should not have bent steering links -- the shocks can be moved an the panhard bar can be moved so those come after the steering.

The only reason for mounting the panhard outboard of the chassis is to have as long of a panhard as possible to minimize the amount of lateral travel the axle will make during "flex". Having said that, your other goals with the panhard is 1) to make it parallel with the steering link to the pitman arm which minimizes bump steer and 2) to have it as horizontal as possible to minimize the lateral travel during (again) "flex". You can see that 1 and 2 are related because in order to accomplish a horizontal panhard, you pretty much have to go with hi-steer arms. Running a stock chassis and a steering gear box (as opposed to a full hydro) will mean you must make compromises between 1 and 2. If your vehicle will see a lot of road driving, bias towards meeting goal 1 because bump steer scary on twisty roads and all of the sudden you apex a small hill and all of the sudden you have to counter steer 45 degrees to keep the vehicle straight.