SOHC V6 Supercharger

2000StreetRod · January 22, 2014

not likely

moddbox said:
You could always buy one of our kits and everything would just bolt up And there is a compatible methanol/water injection kit and intercooler kit available. . .

You may not be aware that there are some differences between my 2000 Explorer SOHC V6 and the engines in vehicles your kits support.

An obvious one is the location of the oil filler tube due to different valve covers. I could always purchase the plastic valve covers but I prefer my metal ones.

Another is the engine wiring harness. My stock wiring harness has a major section (for the fuel injectors) that is routed between the head intake ports. Your M90 manifold looks like it requires the Ranger style split wiring that runs outside of the head intake ports.

There are probably other differences that I could identify if I spent more time studying your kits. Your incorporation of a flexible EGR pipe and available methane/water injection and intercooler are desirable.

I encourage you to perform more research so you know which models your bolt on kits actually support. To my knowledge there is still no bolt on M90 kit available for the 2nd Generation Explorers/Mountaineers with the SOHC V6. That's a shame because there is probably a limited market for one.

rpcaster · January 22, 2014

2000StreetRod said:
You may not be aware that there are some differences between my 2000 Explorer SOHC V6 and the engines in vehicles your kits support.

An obvious one is the location of the oil filler tube due to different valve covers. I could always purchase the plastic valve covers but I prefer my metal ones.

Another is the engine wiring harness. My stock wiring harness has a major section (for the fuel injectors) that is routed between the head intake ports. Your M90 manifold looks like it requires the Ranger style split wiring that runs outside of the head intake ports.

There are probably other differences that I could identify if I spent more time studying your kits. Your incorporation of a flexible EGR pipe and available methane/water injection and intercooler are desirable.

I encourage you to perform more research so you know which models your bolt on kits actually support. To my knowledge there is still no bolt on M90 kit available for the 2nd Generation Explorers/Mountaineers with the SOHC V6. That's a shame because there is probably a limited market for one.

This "Moddbox" poster is AAron Hahn. He first contacted me on Jan 18, 2012 wanting some information. His last email was on Feb 8, 2013 wanting to verify the Eaton supercharger (prior) to a Banshee Supercharger Kit purchase. He was able to get my manifold and plenum from a "Canadian neighbor" for (reverse engineering). "Enough Said"

moddbox · January 23, 2014

[MENTION=111113]2000StreetRod[/MENTION]
Oops Sorry. Saw alot of posts on here and did not notice you had the 2000 model. Our model is only compatible for later models (2002 & up). However, you are correct that the 2000 & 2001 models (pretzel style intakes... as I like to call them) have the differences you mentioned. The oil cap/valve covers are as you say... though that should not make a difference. You're also right about the wiring harness being in conflict. You might be able to grab a harness off an 2002+ Ranger but I'd have to check into it... We may offer our kits for 2000-2001 Ranger/Explorer Sport Trac/Explorer 2Dr Sport models in future depending on the number of requests we get. However, we might not want to step on RP's toes

[MENTION=38911]rp[/MENTION]castor
We admire your efforts and contributions to the Ranger community. And you are probably correct that Aaron Hahn contacted you. He is our Directer and Lead Engineer for Moddbox.

With all due respect, he would have contacted you because he wanted to supercharge his Ranger. But when there was no complete kit available for the later model Ranger - which included high quaility components being 100% compatible with fuel system upgrades (and the Explorer Express Kit being discontinued) - he decided to develop his own kit. As an engineer with many years of mechanical engineering experience and long retail history, he foundend the company in January of 2013. The product was developed from scratch by a team over 11 months. In December of 2013 the product was released.

Ps. To be clear, your kit has never been in the hands of anyone on our team. We also have never had the need or desire to purchase a kit for a 2001 Ranger. We have designed our parts for 2002+ models by 3D scanning the 4.0L SOHC Engine and then using 3D Modeling CAD Software to design the mechanical components (lots more structural analysis, thermodynamics, fluid dynamics and CNC programing and other boring engineering stuff). See this page for more details of our design process:
http://modd.me/modd-design-process/

In addition, if you have any other concerns or comments, please PM this account or contact us via our website as that would be more appropriate.

2000StreetRod · January 23, 2014

ATF dipstick tube bracket bent

It took many attempts to get the angles right. Fortunately, the bracket is made of soft metal and didn't break before I was finally satisfied.

Now I can check the fluid level by only removing the dipstick.

2000StreetRod · January 24, 2014

grotesque snorkel

I'm hoping to attempt an engine start next week and I needed an air filter so I scrounged parts from past modifications and kluged together something.

I think the leather glove is a nice "touch".

I still have to fabricate an upper air filter enclosure that mates with the Lightning MAF sensor and a throttle/cruise cable support bracket that mounts to the throttle body. I wasted a lot of time today attempting to get the fuel pressure sensor wiring loom thru the firewall grommet. Tomorrow I'll insert a section of metal tube into the grommet, feed the loom thru the tube, and then pull out the tube.

I looked briefly at how the throttle cable is attached. It appears that the only way to remove the old one is to cut off the end that engages the throttle plate arm and then pull the cable and housing out from the inside. I'll remove the accelerator and check it. I've read that some part of it (bolt?) has a tendency to break.

Edit: According to the workshop manual disconnecting the acclerator cable seems pretty easy:

2000StreetRod · January 25, 2014

removing accelerator cable

As I anticipated removal of the accelerator cable was a tedious and time consuming task. I first removed the accelerator pedal mounting bolt to get better access to the cable end. I used a screwdriver to push the expanded tabs of the cable mount inward so it would pass thru the opening. Releasing the two tabs on the cable housing mount were much more difficult because of the confined work space and limited visibility. I think a pair of bent needle nose pliers would have worked well but I don't have any. I doubt that these would work because of the short and thick reach.

These look more promising but cost $28 at Office Depot.

Anyway, the cable and housing is out so now I have to read about installing the longer one.

2000StreetRod · January 26, 2014

Ain't nothin' easy!

I ordered the Lokar TC-1000MOD48 because it was advertised to be compatible with the 4.6L throttle body which I'm using.

I verified that the throttle body end works.

But the other end didn't look promising. Notice the difference in how the cable attaches to the accelerator pedal.

Also notice the smaller diameter of the firewall fitting and adjuster nut. Yes, they're definitely too small.

I'm fixing the firewall mounting problem with two 1 1/4" o.d. fender washers with the i.d. drilled to 0.3" and a 0.7" o.d. washer with 0.3" i.d. to keep the fender washers centered in the firewall hole, and a thin soft washer or sealant for a seal.

The plastic piece on the stock cable end is not removable. There's a keeper on the Lokar cable end so I can take it apart. Then I could use a very small washer but I'll need something to keep it centered so it can't slip out thru the side slot. I could drill a hole the size of the cable diameter thru a small bolt that fits thru the accelerator, cut the bolt off just long enough for the thickness of the accelerator and a thin nut attached with thread lock.

2000StreetRod · January 31, 2014

wiring checks

Today I performed an ignition on datalog and confirmed that the TPS, IAT, ECT and transmission temperature sensors are functional. So I loaded the forced induction initial tune into the PCM. The only things remaining for an engine start attempt are splicing the IAC valve connector pigtails, installing the EGR tube and temporarily connecting a vacuum gauge to the boost/vacuum hose.

4pointslow · January 31, 2014

Explorer

I am on the edge of my seat!
Cant wait to hear about the first start up. I am sure it will go as planned.

2000StreetRod · February 1, 2014

Engine start issues

This morning I finished installing the EGR tube, remote IAC valve and connected my test vacuum/boost gauge to the vacuum/boost hose. So I set up for a datalog, energized my Accusump just long enough for the oil pressure gauge (idiot light) to jump and then cranked the starter. The amibient temperature was about 35 degrees F and the engine started almost immediately but soon stumbled and died. My air/fuel ratio meter monitors the battery voltage and starts a 20 second countdown after engine start (to warm the wideband O2 sensor) before it outputs any reliable data. I have a remote crank button in the engine compartment and found that I could keep the engine running by rapidly fluttering the throttle plate. Eventually I was able to keep the engine running long enough to log the A/F ratio. The highest reading was 10.07:1 and settled around 10.01. My meter will not read below 10.0:1 since most engines won't run that rich.

I have confirmed that the MAF sensor is working as is all of the other sensors so I got lucky on the wiring. My datalog shows engine rpm as does the tachometer so the crankshaft position sensor wiring is functional. I didn't confirm the camshaft position sensor with a datalog (may not be possible) but the engine running even though very rich makes me think the injectors are firing on the intake stroke instead of exhaust stroke. Normally the SOHC V6 will not even start with a bad camshaft position sensor due to stale fuel charge.

I sent a datalog to James for his review. My fuel pressure is still 67 psi since I haven't wired the electronic fuel pressure regulator yet. But I think this tune would still be way too rich even at my planned 43.5 psi.

The other problem I noticed is a coolant leak. There was coolant dripping from the front and rear of the block. Maybe I should have waited to install the thermostat metal housing because now I don't know if that's leaking or the intercooler hose connections (or both). I'll disable the intercooler pump and try and isolate the leak source.

I'm pleased about no apparent wiring errors but not the coolant leak because I may have to remove things to fix the leak(s).

Dono · February 1, 2014

Just running the intercooler pump will give you a quick answer as to the leak location.
I sure hope its easy for you to get at the leak.

At least you have a data log off to James while you find that leak. A bit frustrating, but no big deal. Your down the home stretch.

2000StreetRod · February 1, 2014

probably the thermostat housing

After thinking about it while taking my shower I've decided the coolant leak is probably associated with replacing the thermostat housing. I've done numerous intercooler leak checks with the pump and never detected a leak. The intercooler system is unpressurized and unlikely to leak. Also, the leak didn't happen until the cooling system was pressurized. I doubt an engine freeze plug popped since I have good protection and the vehicle has been in the garage where there is a gas water heater to keep the temperature much warmer than outside. I probably just didn't tighten the housing bolts enough to compress the gaskets or didn't tighten a hose clamp enough. Hopefully, soon I'll get another tune from James that allows the engine to idle long enough to warm up.

2000StreetRod · February 6, 2014

2 of 3 hood clearance problems fixed

The remote IAC valve prevented the hood from closing.

So I moved the top port to the side and fabricated new mounts.

The blower pulley hit the hood reinforcement.

So I cut out a section.

The hood now closes with about 3/8" clearance when the Akimoto air filter and silicone elbow are removed.

I guess it's time to start fabricating a top air filter enclosure.

I tightened the thermostat housing bolts and hose clamps accessible without removing the radiator hose and fuel hose. Yesterday morning I received another tune from James which I may try tomorrow to test for leaks with the intercooler pump disabled.

I've been a little distracted with a 2001 Explorer XLS with timing chain rattle advertised locally for $1,000.

I haven't had a chance to see it yet (seller works during the day) and it may be sold before I can get to it.

Dono · February 7, 2014

Very nice, on both counts. Love it that you don't have to go with a hood scoop and fight with fabricating bracing. That's awesome!

Nice work.

2000StreetRod · February 7, 2014

step-by-step, inch-by-inch

Carguy3J said:
. . . It looks like there would be enough room, with another angled coupler or two, to fit a cone filter in that right front corner. I think either a 45deg or 90deg elbow, with the cone pointing down, or down and towards the RF corner of the engine bay, could work. You should even be able to put an "isolation" box around it, to prevent it from sucking hot under-hood air.

For now I followed Carguy3's suggestion and just removed the base of the stock air filter enclosure and pointed the 45 degree 3" to 4" silicone adapter downward.

It was a perfect fit with clearance on both sides. I placed a small sponge under the cone filter so it wouldn't vibrate nor rub the damage the wire loom near it. Also, using the cone filter drawing air from the engine compartment will be comparable to my baseline dyno configuation to make the dyno results comparison more valid. The higher intake temperatures from the engine compartment will enhance the advantage of the intercooler. The hood closed with no interference so now I can start work on the throttle cable mount.

I loaded the second tune into the PCM and started the engine with the intercooler pump disabled to check for coolant leaks. I didn't try to datalog because James wants me to add some more parameters and that will take a while to get the correct ones. The engine started and even idled pretty good but ran a little rough with sputters every few minutes. The IAC valve seems to be working and holding the commanded engine rpm. I think the sputters may be the result of the fuel trims being adjusted by the PCM when in closed loop.

The coolant temperature was about 40 degrees and the gauge in the instrument panel slowly worked its way up to "C" so that's also working. I still have coolant drops from the front and rear of the engine as pressure builds in the cooling system. It looks like it might be from the upper radiator hose connection to the thermostat upper housing or the gasket between the thermostat housing upper and lower sections. I'll try repositioning the hose clamp and maybe I'll get lucky.

The A/F ratio meter read 0.99 lambda (14.55:1) when I glanced at it after about 10 minutes so the mixture is being corrected in closed loop. I'll probably have to drain the fuel tank and drop it to get access to the fuel pump ground wire. I have to cut and splice it and then route it back to the fuel pressure controller.

2000StreetRod · March 7, 2014

Main intake tube collapse

My 5 layer reinforced silicone intake hoses can sustain high pressures but not much vacuum. The hose between the throttle body and the plenum collapses to less than half of its designed cross sectional area when I rapidly close the throttle from engine mid-range.

So I ordered a T6061 aluminum 3 in o.d. (2 mm thick) intercooler tube 45 degree elbow.

Each leg is 11 inches long so I'll have to shorten them about 6 inches and purchase two silicone couplers and more T-Bolt clamps.

2000StreetRod · March 7, 2014

weak vacuum

The Banshee M90 kit instructions state that the vacuum should be 20 in-Hg at engine idle. My Haynes manual states that a warmed up average healthy engine should produce a fairly steady reading of 17 to 22 in-Hg at normal idle speed. Currently my engine will not idle steady at the normal speed of 700 rpm. I have to slightly open the throttle (engine speed 900 rpm) to keep the engine running. When I hook up my test vacuum gauge to the vacuum/boost hose the reading is a steady 15 in-Hg. I can't remember what it was before I installed the M90 kit but I'm concerned that it is now weak. Haynes states that a "low steady reading usually indicates a leaking gasket between the intake manifold and cylinder head(s) or throttle body, a leaky vacuum hose, late ignition timing or incorrect camshaft timing."

I used sealant between the heads and the manifold, between the manifold and the blower, and between the blower and the plenum. I have gaskets between the plenum and hose adapter and between the hose adapter and the throttle body. I'll recheck the thick plenum to hose adapter gasket since it may have compressed since I first installed it. All of my vacuum hoses have a good friction fit and are additionally secured with hose clamps or cable ties for the very small hoses. I'm familiar enough with the engine configuration that I doubt I have left a hose disconnected. I don't hear any leaks but one would be hard to hear over the engine noise.

My ignition timing advance is only 16 degrees at 900 rpm which is several degrees less than before the M90 installation and associated initial tune. My camshaft timing has not changed (unless the chain slipped). I'll recheck all of the vacuum related connections and tighten as needed. If that doesn't help I may build a smoke machine to test for leaks. I'll probably perform a compression test when I decrease the spark plug gap to 0.044" and install the new spark plug wires.

rpcaster · March 7, 2014

2000StreetRod said:
The Banshee M90 kit instructions state that the vacuum should be 20 in-Hg at engine idle. My Haynes manual states that a warmed up average healthy engine should produce a fairly steady reading of 17 to 22 in-Hg at normal idle speed. Currently my engine will not idle steady at the normal speed of 700 rpm. I have to slightly open the throttle (engine speed 900 rpm) to keep the engine running. When I hook up my test vacuum gauge to the vacuum/boost hose the reading is a steady 15 in-Hg. I can't remember what it was before I installed the M90 kit but I'm concerned that it is now weak. Haynes states that a "low steady reading usually indicates a leaking gasket between the intake manifold and cylinder head(s) or throttle body, a leaky vacuum hose, late ignition timing or incorrect camshaft timing."

I used sealant between the heads and the manifold, between the manifold and the blower, and between the blower and the plenum. I have gaskets between the plenum and hose adapter and between the hose adapter and the throttle body. I'll recheck the thick plenum to hose adapter gasket since it may have compressed since I first installed it. All of my vacuum hoses have a good friction fit and are additionally secured with hose clamps or cable ties for the very small hoses. I'm familiar enough with the engine configuration that I doubt I have left a hose disconnected. I don't hear any leaks but one would be hard to hear over the engine noise.

My ignition timing advance is only 16 degrees at 900 rpm which is several degrees less than before the M90 installation and associated initial tune. My camshaft timing has not changed (unless the chain slipped). I'll recheck all of the vacuum related connections and tighten as needed. If that doesn't help I may build a smoke machine to test for leaks. I'll probably perform a compression test when I decrease the spark plug gap to 0.044" and install the new spark plug wires.

Another way is to "lightly spray" starting fluid around intake areas at idle, and see if rpm increases. Just be care full of the obvious like flame, spark, enclosed area, etc.

2000StreetRod · March 11, 2014

throttle bracket completed

I finally finished fabricating my throttle cable and cruise control cable mounting bracket.

The cruise control cable is just long enough to make a tight loop and still move freely.

My aluminum 45 degree elbow to replace the silicone elbow should be here Friday. I may complete my oil pressure gauge pod installation by then.

Dono · March 11, 2014

Wow! Nice Job!!

SOHC V6 Supercharger

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