Parking Brake Problem

I am replacing the parking brake shoes on my 98 Explorer 2WD. Is the lever that the parking brake cable pulls on supposed to move back and forth when the cable is tightened or released? Mine is rusted and does not move. It looks like it is supposed to pivot on a pin.

Any way to get the lever assembly out without removing the rear axle?

Thanks for your help.

Yes it must move on that pivot. You can remove without removing the axle. Look at this thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147823&highlight=parking+brake

pictures are near bottom of page

Thanks for the reply.

It looks like the cable hook may have slipped off the lever, allowing the lever to rust in place from no movement. I didn't want to try to break it loose until I knew for sure it was supposed to pivot.

I cannot get the lever assembly out. When trying to remove it, it's hitting the stud plate on the axle, preventing it from comming out. Will it come out if I am able to break the rust free and allow it to pivot? I'd like to replace it since it's so rusted.

Spray the hell out of it with PB Blaster. A little heat from a torch will help too. Once it moves freely, you should be able to get it out without removing axle. If available from Ford, new levers are pricey. (There is a right and left )They sell everything by the piece. Each "lever" is 2 separate pieces. Total for four new pieces is $50 to $60. Try cleaning up the old ones with a wire wheel and grease the pivot point good before reinstalling.

Thanks for the info.

I sprayed it down last night. Hopefully it will break loose this evening without destroying it. If Ford gets $30 for those two small metal parts, they should at least throw in some "lube". OUCH !

Even if they are stuck, they should come out with some wrangling. It's certainly easier to pull them out to the outside (i.e. with the axle shafts out).

On both my truck and the Explorer, I pulled the seized parts out, was able to drive them apart with a pin punch and hammer, then bead-blast them to remove all the corrosion. Then I reassembled them using a liberal coating of anti-seize on all the moving surfaces. So far (knock on wood) everything is good 6 months into it!

Joe,

Thanks for the reply.

With much wrangling I was able to get it out. It was rusted solid. Even with several applications of Silkroil (similar to blaster) it would not move. I had to put the bottom piece in a vice and tap the hook piece back and forth with a hammer to work it loose. Removed the rust with a wire brush on my dremel and it works like new.

Is there a trick to get the adjuster screw installed with only one person?

I've only got the upper rear spring installed. I can't pull the shoes apart enough to get the adjuster in. The new springs are quite a bit stronger than the old ones.

With one person it will be tough. I had my dad help me yesterday when i was replacing mine. With only the top rear spring hooked in wedge something in the side of the shoes between the hub to pry the bottoms apart then get the adjuster in place. Then you can put the other top spring on and then the holder clips. Screw the adjuster screw in so its smaller and easier to fit in there, and adjust it after its all back together. Good luck. It truly is a crappy design to work on. I would also suggest that you grease up that bracket piece that pivots to spread the shoes where the top of the shoes sit in. We forgot to grease the passenger side and now only the driver side works.

magngineer said:

Joe,

Thanks for the reply.

With much wrangling I was able to get it out. It was rusted solid. Even with several applications of Silkroil (similar to blaster) it would not move. I had to put the bottom piece in a vice and tap the hook piece back and forth with a hammer to work it loose. Removed the rust with a wire brush on my dremel and it works like new.

Is there a trick to get the adjuster screw installed with only one person?

I've only got the upper rear spring installed. I can't pull the shoes apart enough to get the adjuster in. The new springs are quite a bit stronger than the old ones.

Click to expand...

You should actually separate the two halves and lubricate the pin and the space between the plates. Banging on it to get it moving won't last (been there, done that). It'll seize back up in short order.

To get the adjuster in, do it BEFORE installing the springs. It's not easy, but certainly easier.