Need for Speed!

I'm trying to find out the max acceptable heat/temp I can expose pushrods and/or rockers to, without damaging them. It is known that the 4.0L-OHV has poor top end / valve train oiling; often leading to premature wear of pushrod ends and pushrod cups in the rockers. So, I thought I would try using a dry-film lubricant engine coating. http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-performance/bs-internal-engine-coatings.html I'm looking at the DFL-1 PowerKote: My concern is the 300deg, for 1 hour. Does anybody see any problems with this; such as loss of "temper", unintended hardening/embrittlement, and/or warpage of the parts? As I said, I intend to use it on the pushrods, the inside "bore" and both the pushrod cup as well as the valve end tip...

lol, playing in the snow. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUZsUgLc7pQ

I posted this on the explorer side and realized that there aren't any Ranger guys chiming in... so I decided to post it here too for all my fellow Ranger drivers :) So here it is... the most complete HOW TO for supercharging your 4.0L Ranger! If you obtain a Moddbox Installation kit and any Eaton M90 supercharger (89-95 either style inlet... you can opt to buy one with warranty in the kit), just follow the following instructions and you're good to go. No tune required. 100% bolt-on mod. You can get your installation kit here: ModdBox - Engineering your driving experience I've also decided to post the "final result" first. If you like it.. proceed to read the "how to". Here's the Dyno. 215 hp & 237 lbft at the rear wheels...

Have a Paxton SN-93 based centrifugal supercharger kit, going on my 94 Explorer. Current plan is to use a FMU that I have and save tuning for later, since there are no OBD-I tuners near where I live. Motor is all stock, auto trans so it won't likely be seeing over 4000 RPM. Number one priority is reliability. Number two is light weight and ease of maintenance/minimal added parts. Number three is power. This will be a low boost setup, seldom reaching 6psi. If I can run regular octane that would be even better. The Explorer will be operated in a hot climate where it may see 110 degrees ambient temp during the summer. Since I am not doing tuning, and running the stock PCM with a FMU, I'd like to reduce the chance of ping/detonation and...

It's been several years since there's been any posts on this subject so I decided to start a new thread to discuss it. There are several ways to significantly increase the power and torque of the SOHC V6: supercharging, turbocharging and stroking. All three are fairly expensive modifications and many members would probably comment why bother when it's possible to upgrade from a V6 Explorer to a V8 Explorer for less money. Well one reason is the V8 was not available in the 2 door Explorer and another reason is I have become comfortable with the SOHC V6 in spite of its potential timing chain death rattle. I am approaching the end of what I hope to be a successful supercharger installation and for various reasons I am not interested in a...

This will not be a huge power build and I may not get around to it till summer. I want to run it at only 6lbs of boost, in my low mileage 2001 Explorer Limited. This for ***** and giggles on my preferred daily driver. I will tune it with a Tweecer and larger injectors. I bought a used Powerdyne Mustang 5.0 kit off of Corral.net. The biggest issue will be getting the blower mounted and driven. I unpacked it today and found Frankenbracket pictured below. It moves the alternator down and the blower mounts above and to passenger side. It's the mustang set-up and I need to compare the bracket mounting depth to the Explorer. I will get to a wrecking yard and pull a stock Explorer bracket to compare and work with. The Used Kit As...

So just wanted to see what everyone thinks or feels about larger valves. Numbers are just a reference, I have a spare head and will be chopping it up soon to get exact numbers.. So this is more towards the ohv and being FI.keep in mind the ohv has very small valves and I will be stroking it and running 4" pistons.now lets say you have .200 of clearance for the valves to go larger.what would be best for FI and the fack my motor will be larger and stock is super small. So would you A-increase the intake valve .200 and leave the exhaust the same? B-increase the exhaust .200 leaving the intake the same? C-increase both .100? D-increase the intake larger say .150 and smaller exhaust increase .050(or any other equal number)...

I want to rebuild my 5.0 Eddie Bauer into a daily driver/street rod. My main goal is make this as fast as I can from 0-60, but can be driven on the highway without the engine running at 3,000 RPM at 70MPH. So I am looking for people who have experience in changing out the gears in the differentials. As you may know this Explorer already has 3.73 but I am looking to get some real torque from this truck. I don't really believe going as high as 4.88 or 5.14 would be reasonable because this will still be a daily driver for fall and winter. I will not be taking this vehicle offroading, but like I said I am looking for very good torque with reasonable RPM range on the highway. I am looking at a 347 or 363 reverse dome crate motor...

Had my SPORT out for 7 baseline runs last week...this one was OVER fast. LOL http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7Vs-rh_3EM

As the title says, I'm wondering if the 99 up exhaust manifolds that, according to Turdle may not fit the earlier gt40 heads. I want to stroke my 5.0 to 347 among some other mods so that it tows a little better. It's my daily driver, but I occasionally tow an open trailer with a car on it, so I want reliability and a little more power. The weight is around 4500 lbs, but there are some interstate hills I have to deal with, and the stocker really fades on the hills. It won't be turned over 4500 rpm, so I'm not looking for drag racing acceleration, just extra torque. The torquemonster headers sound great, but the lack of communication from the builder makes me wonder if they will even do them on a timely basis. The manifolds are better...

i just finished putting on a 75mm BBK throttle body (that i bought used), and have had some problems. first, the truck is a 98 sport with a 5L, and a m90 supercharger on it. when i did the throttle body, i also make a bigger throttle body elbow as well (3 1/2 inch), and modded the shaft for the butterfly by cutting the part of the shaft that faces you when its closed. now that is on, here are the problems. this thing whistles and hums like mad. its already driving me nuts, and its only been a day, i am having some idle issues with it, and now have a P1506 code (Idle Air Control Over Speed Error), at first i thought it was the IAC, and lucky for me, i had a bran new one kicking around. tried it, no luck. took the elbow off thinking...

This is what it says on the turbo: Center Section 1.325 AR 60 AR 58 I have no idea what it's off of, or what kind of power it can support. Any guesses?

Hey everyone, I have been fighting what I think is a heat soak issue, I have a supercharger under the hood so I know the why. The question I have is, I have heard rumors of v8 radiators helping since they are thicker. Also since I run an 8x11 bm cooler, should I be ok in terms of not using the radiator as a heat exchanger?

hi im new to this forum site and i like some help to get a little more power on my v8 limited. im a mustang guy i have 03 mach 1 all done up and lost of extra parts and have some friend with 2002 mustang v8 like to know what fits on it or what other year model mustang parts would fit my truck. its hard to find some part for the limited v8. so this is what i like to do to it let me know if it will fit or what model mustang and year i can match the parts .....best exhaust like the rumble .....cold air intake .....throttle body .....fuel injectors and whats the stock size on it. whats the lph.. .....maf air sensor from a mustang will it fit.?? .....fuel pump is it the same as the mustang.?? .....coil packs are they the...

Well guys, I don't even have it yet and I'm looking at going turbo. I think I'll be going STS style with the turbo underneath the the body. I'm hoping I can find room somewhere closer to the front to mount it. If not, I may just go classic style and cut the muffler out and install the turbo in its place. Tim was kind enough to point me at a turbo for sale locally. I'm checking it out now. I sent the specs to James Henson to see what his thoughts are. Here's the specs: t4 F1-68 turbine .68 a/r housing 3" exhaust outlet with a 72mm compressor blade 4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached. I have a vague understanding, and that concerns me. Now, the next issue is oil routing. Oil in to...