Trouble starting in colder weather (I have read the other posts). Need you're opinion | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Trouble starting in colder weather (I have read the other posts). Need you're opinion

I dont recall if you said you had a check engine light on or not, but if its not on, a scan will not to much for you.
 



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Same year and model - Same problem

I would be very interested in what you find to fix this problem. You described the same issues I am having with my 98 sport. I had the same problem last year when it got cold but was able to use a different Explorer(96) during the winter. I have driven the 98 it all summer without a problem but now right on cue when it gets to 10 F it gets hard to start. When it gets to 0 F you can almost forget it. Plugging in the block heater doesn't help.
 






IAC problems are not usually temperature sensitive. I would start with the updated lower intake manifold gaskets. This is a very common problem identified in a TSB.

Another example:
Cold Weather Idle
 






I had a similiar problem with the IAC. I know it shouldn't be temperature sensitive, but I believe the rubber plunger stiffens up in the cold and gets hung up easier. Since it would cost you nothing more than 10-15 minutes and a good blast of WD-40, why not try to clean the plunger area and see if it helps?
 






It may not be temperature sensitive, but it the IAC is sure known to act up when its cold. Kind of like a battery going out on the first day of cold weather in the winter. The cold is hard on these parts. Shows that they are worn, or wearing out. Etc Etc
 






I have also the same problem, but I live in florida. I have had this problem for the past three years. as soon as I park the explorer over night, and it gets cold(30-45degrees) the damn thing will NOT start the next morning. Turn the key to start and it doesn not even turn. after a while when the temp goes up, the explorer cranks. I have been searching for 3 winters, asked all kinds of mechanics, all give me different answers. scanned it today and it gave me a p1401 Manufacturer Control.Auxilary Emission Control, I dont know if that has anything to do with the explorer not wanting to start in cold weather.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
 












Not sure on that one.
 






If it's been the same battery for all those years, I'd try another one to see if your problem goes away.
 






I had the same problem. It was the IAC. From what I understand (someone correct me if I'm wrong), the IAC acts as a choke (remember those on the old carburators).
If you do replace it, don't forget to reset the computer.
 






The IAC acts as a variable air inlet to control idle rpm under varying idle loads. It is not a choke. If the IAC is causing your problem, just give it some throttle with the accelerator pedal. If it starts it is the IAC. If not it is some other gremlin.
I have found that battery voltage while cranking is very important. If my 98 sport battery drops below aprx. 9.8 volts on cranking, it will not start. I think this is really ignition related. Battery capacity is reduced with low temperatures. A battery that has the capacity to start the engine at 80 degrees may not be able to supply enough capacity at 32 degrees.
I would check cranking voltage when the temperature is very cold. If it is below about 9.8 volts I would charge the battery and then see if it starts.
Battery drain from parasitic loads can really take a toll on the battery on cold days. The ford service manual spec is .5 amp or less, but this is very wrong. The GEM/CTC will pull about 200 to 400 milliamps for 45 minutes to 1 hour after the doors are locked. After 45 minutes or so the battery drain drop specification is less than 50 milliamps. The readings on my sport are 225 milliamps with the GEM/CTC energized and 17.3 milliamps after 45 minutes. Battery saver relay is de-energized by the GEM/CTM after 45 minutes of no input from the alarm or door lock or interior lights.
Last week I had the no start problem and checked battery drain. It was in spec. The battery was 4 months old - a red top optima. I got it exchanged under warranty and the no start condition went away.

If you have aftermarket amps or sub-woofers installed they may be pulling too much current when the truck sits. My MTX Thunderform pulls 66 milliamps with the key off, even though the remote turn on works properly. I installed a relay in the main power to the sub-woofer amp that kills power to the amp when the key or radio is off.

If anyone needs instructions for checking battery drain or tracking down excessive battery drain, I can write up the procedure.

Just my .02 worth. Hope it helps someone

Scucci
 






Maybe??

I had a very similar problem, untill this morning. I installed the Ford oom12 kit, it was for a 2000 X sohc. It replaces the lower to middle and middle to upper intake O rings. Mine were as hard as rocks and i could see where air/dirt/oil was going past them. It started perfect after. Here is the original thread, where i found it. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61152&highlight=00m12&page=2.
Mikeh posted it. It took me almost 3 hours, it would have been shorter but i lost a bolt.
tony
 






I had a very similar problem, untill this morning. I installed the Ford oom12 kit, it was for a 2000 X sohc. It replaces the lower to middle and middle to upper intake O rings. Mine were as hard as rocks and i could see where air/dirt/oil was going past them. It started perfect after. Here is the original thread, where i found it. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61152&highlight=00m12&page=2.
Mikeh posted it. It took me almost 3 hours, it would have been shorter but i lost a bolt.
tony

Can you post the ford part number that you used? THat would help me and future searchers.
 






The part number is YL2Z-9E473-AA, It was under a recall of OOM12.
hope this helps. I just started the X, to let it warm up, and no problems.
 






also, FYI my check engine light was on, lean bank right and left. (P041,P042 maybe?)
 






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