Loose front end, need help!

[rnrphoto98]

I have a 93 Ex, the front end is very loose, it is not so bad on pavement it just wonders a little, but you really notice it on a dirt road with ruts the front shift from left to right, back and forth, almost makes you sea sick.

What do I need to check to find out what is its???

Any help would be great!!

Thanks

Rob

 

[Michiganbear]

ball joints, tie rod ends, Radius arm bushings. pretty much everything in the front end..

oops, forgot to add wheel bearings too.

if you dont feel confidant checking it all, take it to get it aligned (should be inexpensive, like 40-50 bucks), and have them inspect it while on the rack (they should anyway). that will tell you what needs work, as well as what will need work in near future.

 

[rnrphoto98]

I just jacked it up and there is play in the drivers side wheel, I can wiggel it top to bottom a bit and there is even more play front to back, the passenger side seems solid though.

Can you just replace parts on one side? I would think you would have to do both sides at once so they match??

I think I might take it to Les Schwab, they have free inspections, I dont have any experience working on front end stuff.

Anyone else have any suggestions??

Thanks

Rob

 

[Maniak]

In theory, you have a loose/bad bearing and possibly bad tie rod or worst case bad ball joint..

You need to look at where the movement is coming from.. while someone wiggles the tire see if the movement is caused by the tie rod or the ball joint.. If its neigher of them its the bearing...

The bearing is the easist, then tie rod and ball joint.. tie rod and ball join replacement usually mean do and alignment when done.

~Mark

 

[Michiganbear]

you can fix just one side for now to get thru, but if one side is loosing ball joints or tie-rod ends, might as well figure the other side is just about to poop on ya too.

 

[jeremyc653]

you can fix just one side for now to get thru, but if one side is loosing ball joints or tie-rod ends, might as well figure the other side is just about to poop on ya too.

i second this i had passanger front wheel bearing go bad and after i ordered the part i ordered to just in case other side needed it and the next day the drivers side went bad so now i dont have to re order the other one and can replace both

 

[rnrphoto98]

I checked the front again and I can not see the tie rod or the ball joints moving as the tire moves so it really sounds like the wheel bearing.

So the local parts store has 2 different bearing sets. A standard bearing for 10.00 and a higher quality set for 20.00. Is there really a difference that is worth an extra 10.00??

Also I am looking for a Haines or Chilton type book, what has been the best you have found for the 91 to 94 Explorer.

This will be my first expereince with wheel bearings so I just want to have all my ducks in a row.

Thanks for our help

Rob

 

[Explodr94]

The brand I prefer for bearings is Timken. I have never had a poor experience with them. Always, always change the races when replacing the bearings. Of the two manuals you mentioned I like the Haynes a little better, but they are both fine for the wheel bearing replacement procedure. Good luck.

 

[rnrphoto98]

Ok thanks for the input.
From someone totally new to front end work, how hard is it to replace the races??

 

[Maniak]

IIRC its Timken set 37 and Timken is all I will use..

The 1st time you do races it will be a little scary.. Just use a drift and a hammer to knock them out.. Use the old one and a hammer to get the new one in.. Once you have done it once it'll be easy next time..

~Mark

 

[Shen2187]

I prefer a Chilton's over a Hayne's but, since the Chilton's is harder to find I use a Hayne's. Does the job.

I third Timken as the only bearings I will use.

The bearings are fairly easy to do. It is intimidating at first though.

A little tip for the Key on the locknut. If you cant get a magnet on it, you can use two small finish nails as a sort of tweezer type setup (tweezers dont work... I tried ) Works great when they decide to be stubborn.

Before you know it, you'll be able to tear a hub down to the bearings in less than 10 minutes. Or so it is for me, I check mine every 2-3 months and after wheeling trips.

This is a fun subject for me since bearings are what brought me here in the first place lol.