04 Mountaineer Premeir - Tires spinning on wet and dry pavement | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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04 Mountaineer Premeir - Tires spinning on wet and dry pavement

davaughan

New Member
Joined
April 11, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Cadillac, Mi
Year, Model & Trim Level
'04 Mountaineer Premier
Bought a used '04 Mountaineer 4.6L AWD a few years ago with 130K. It was an "As-Is" special at a dealership for a considerable amount below blue book, so I was expecting a repair or two. So far I have not been forced to put much money into it at all, but it did have two problems that i noticed from the start:

1) rear end noise (roaring)
2) binding and chirping when turning at low speeds

A strange thing happened this summer though. The binding and chirping STOPPED, and it rolls nice and smooth now (rear end still roars). I know that the truck did not fix itself, and it probably indicates a further compounding of existing problems, but there are no accompanying warning lights or nags. One side effect though, is that now when I take off quickly, I can roast the tires, and now that there is snow on the ground, the tires spin with too much acceleration as if there is no traction control (still no warning lights). I am also getting about 10 mpg city, although a recent 300 mile trip on the highway yielded over 19 mpg.

I would like to get the traction control issue resolved, to see if the city mpg increases and to get the truck into salable condition, but I am concerned that I will spend a bunch of money only to have the chirping and binding return. So, I'm not sure which is the lesser of two evils, or if they are even mutually exclusive.

some other things to note:

1) changed tires about a year before the cirping and binding stopped, and the new tires did seem to calm the chirping and binding a little.
2) Also had the recommended fluid added to condition the clutch packs at the same time, so that may have also been the slight cure for the chirping and binding.
3) I was also told that I have a broken coil spring on the drivers side rear.

I'm not expecting much from replies. I have already done my research and I understand that these Explorers and Mountaineers are enigmatic at best. But any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

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1.) Replace rear struts using quick struts - can get online for 70-80/each
2.) Roaring is possibly rear diff (rear end) or wheel bearing. I'd change the differential fluid (cheap), and have the wheel bearings checked.
 






im willing to bet something in the awd system was stuck and then let go. the binding and chirping is what most cars do in 4 wheel drive. now that the rear tires spin and the noise is gone im guessing the 4x4 system is not operational.
 






Your transfer case was on the way out (binding and chirping) and now it is gone (tires spinning on wet and dry pavement) the only solution is to replace the transfer case or rebuild it. Until you get it fixed be careful parking on a hill as a failure of this type can lead to parking creep.

The rear end roaring is the rear diff you can try and change the fluid but in the end the only solution is replace or rebuild or a wheel bearing that needs to be replaced. When do you hear the noise?
 






1.) Replace rear struts using quick struts - can get online for 70-80/each
2.) Roaring is possibly rear diff (rear end) or wheel bearing. I'd change the differential fluid (cheap), and have the wheel bearings checked.

Junkyard wants $90 each for used coil/strut. Thanks for the tip on the quick strut. Do you think this has anything to do with the traction control though?
 






im willing to bet something in the awd system was stuck and then let go. the binding and chirping is what most cars do in 4 wheel drive. now that the rear tires spin and the noise is gone im guessing the 4x4 system is not operational.

Not sure about the rears, but the spinning is mostly noticed in front. Squaking front passengers side, and have noticed snow being kicked up from the drivers side, flying past the drivers side window.
 






Your transfer case was on the way out (binding and chirping) and now it is gone (tires spinning on wet and dry pavement) the only solution is to replace the transfer case or rebuild it. Until you get it fixed be careful parking on a hill as a failure of this type can lead to parking creep.

The rear end roaring is the rear diff you can try and change the fluid but in the end the only solution is replace or rebuild or a wheel bearing that needs to be replaced. When do you hear the noise?

Noise is constant, but louder with speed.

Coincidentally, a 2002 was just posted in my local classifieds (same color even) with a blown engine. They want to sell the whole thing for $2000 (obo), but eventually I may be able to get parts from it. Although I am not sure if i trust the transfer case or differential since the truck has 160K miles.
 






The normal rear end noise gets loader when giving it gas, most noticeable at highway speeds. A wheel bearing is more constant but does get louder with speed and changes when turning at speed (like a highway ramps or twisty roads).

Not sure I would go with a high mileage AWD transfer case.
 






Not sure about the rears, but the spinning is mostly noticed in front. Squaking front passengers side, and have noticed snow being kicked up from the drivers side, flying past the drivers side window.

You are spinning the front tires??
 






Junkyard wants $90 each for used coil/strut. Thanks for the tip on the quick strut. Do you think this has anything to do with the traction control though?

www.primechoiceautoparts.com for "new" Strut Tek spring/strut assembly, one whole unit for approx $85 each. Some in here recommend them highly for price and overall ride.
 






Probably need a new viscous clutch in the transfer case. Can be changed easily while the T case is in the vehicle, just have to remove rear cover. When the binding stopped this is probably what happened.
 












You are spinning the front tires??

Went out at lunch, and had co workers keep an eye on them just to make sure. The passengers side front spun like crazy on a patch of slush. Then, with slush coated tires, I did a smokey front tire burnout on a dryer patch of pavement that did not stop until I let off the gas.
 






That's different but your transfer case is blown, like roush9799 said you can replace the viscous clutch in the truck. Good luck let us know how you make out.
 






Local transmission shop replace the transfer case with a Jasper today. They verified that the rear wheels were no longer getting power. Had the trans filter and fluid replaced and new front sway bar links installed while they were under it. They said that they would probably do the links for free since I purchased them myself the night before. Ended up charging me $10 because they had to heat and beat the rusty old ones off.

Forgot to ask if there is a break in period on the new T-case. Anyone know?
 






What did the new T case run you?
 






$1300 + $600 labor. 3 Year/100,000 Mile transferable warranty.

Put 700 miles on it already. Getting much better gas mileage now...
 






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