Really possible to be 100% original suspension at 150K?

[ponkotsu]

Took a really good inspection of the suspension on my 05 Aviator. Upper ball joint boots are dry and torn open, but appear to have no slop. Lower balls have about 2-3mm of vertical play. Left inner tie rod has some noticeable play. Shocks don't bounce at all, but seem like the secondary valving may be weak because it doesn't absorb the little bumps too well. The stabilizer bar links (ball joint type on an Aviator) seem nice and tight.

These are definitely all Ford OEM parts still, and I see no evidence that anythings been wrenched or hammered on, so I have to think it's all original.

Seems amazing to me that a vehicle could get 150k on all the front end components. Anyone know if this is really possible?

I'm planning to just replace everything as long as I'm taking apart. The struts are the biggest expense anyway, so no point in skimping on $50 and risk doing it over again. This way I'll be set as long as I own it probably.

 

[R1dd1cK]

It is very possible. Alot of what factors in is how its driven and what the road conditions are.

 

[ponkotsu]

I hadn't done much major car repair in more than 20 years. Back in those days you were lucky to get 30k on shocks and the suspension would be toast in 75k max. Designs and materials have gotten a lot better since the 70's!

 

[tower]

They don't make them like they used to, THANK GOD

 

[BenEverywhere]

So far, I can vouch for 130K on an '05 Explorer I've had from birth. Seems like it has another 20K in the front.

 

[ponkotsu]

So far, I can vouch for 130K on an '05 Explorer I've had from birth. Seems like it has another 20K in the front.

Everything original? Even the bearings?

I guess they really are BUILT FORD TOUGH.

 

[BenEverywhere]

Everything original? Even the bearings?

Yes, everything is original. I do have a lot of highway miles which tends to extend the life, but I also use my truck off-road frequently hunting. At times, it's been so muddy with caked wheels that I've had to power wash the undercarriage before heading home to keep my teeth from shaking out on the freeway.

To be completely honest, it does have a light squeak on some of the rough, uneven two-tracks. But nothing evident on pavement.




:exp:

 

[BenEverywhere]

I should also mention that I'm on my second set of Michelin LTX M/S tires, since I replaced the BFGs it came with.

Sometimes people underestimate the effect a superior tire can have on overall vehicle performance and reliability. With the BFGs, my truck started shaking around 85 mph or so. Now, it doesn't shake at all to 103 mph or so. This lack of vibration impacts how long the front end (and other parts) will last.




:exp:

 

[ponkotsu]

I should also mention that I'm on my second set of Michelin LTX M/S tires, since I replaced the BFGs it came with.

Sometimes people underestimate the effect a superior tire can have on overall vehicle performance and reliability. With the BFGs, my truck started shaking around 85 mph or so. Now, it doesn't shake at all to 103 mph or so. This lack of vibration impacts how long the front end (and other parts) will last.




:exp:

That's a really good point. My Aviator had Michelin's on it when I got it. I assume the guy had money (Could actually afford a new Aviator) so probably didn't skimp on tires. After I'm done with the front end I need to get new tires on it. I'll probably spend the money on Michelin's and get the lifetime alignment. Good alignment and tires make a world of difference. Cheap 45k tires are about 700 per set and the best 65k Michelins are about $950. Actually works out to about the same cost in the end but you get all the other advantages of great tires in the end.

 

[BenEverywhere]

That's a really good point... Cheap 45k tires are about 700 per set and the best 65k Michelins are about $950. Actually works out to about the same cost in the end but you get all the other advantages of great tires.

Indeed... I've always bought the best tires. BUT, those reading this should not necessarily go out and buy the specific tires mentioned. The "best" tire for a vehicle can vary by region and use. I will absolutely say the ones I have are ideal for what I do, living in the north where traction and stopping distance on ice is important. But these tires would not last so long in high heat climates primarily driving on pavement due to a somewhat softer rubber. They'd be fine driving, but wear much quicker.

PRO TIP: When researching tires, people should notice the location of each reviewer.




:exp:

 

[ponkotsu]

Indeed... I've always bought the best tires. BUT, those reading this should not necessarily go out and buy the specific tires mentioned. The "best" tire for a vehicle can vary by region and use. I will absolutely say the ones I have are ideal for what I do, living in the north where traction and stopping distance on ice is important. But these tires would not last so long in high heat climates primarily driving on pavement due to a somewhat softer rubber. They'd be fine driving, but wear much quicker.

PRO TIP: When researching tires, people should notice the location of each reviewer.

Or talk to a tire dealer you trust. In my area, the roads are fairly smooth, but highly abrasive. I had a tire salesman tell me that certain tires just have really short life around here. I've worn down my used Michelin's about 2/32 in maybe 5k miles. No way they would go 65k around here, so good to get the warranty and get a deep discount on the next set.


:exp:

 

[2Trux]

My '05 has 154k on it and has not had any of the suspension parts changed. It is taken on mild off road, and I tow a pop-up with it. I am very pleased with this truck.

 

[WillT41]

My 2003 Sport XLT has 142,000 miles and all original suspension parts. I replaced the original Michelins at 80,000 with the same model tires and they are still in good shape. I do rotate my tires every 5,000 miles when I change the oil. Love my truck - it's bright yellow.