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Going Back to Explorer, Advice Needed

GTS25

New Member
Joined
January 1, 2018
Messages
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City, State
Marietta, Georgia
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 S
Hello All,

My family used to be all explorers owning a 94, 99, and 03. When I was in college, I sold my 99 explorer and went to an Altima because of the high millage I was putting on the vehicle and the insane gas prices at the time. I just graduated, married, and looking to add on to the family. I currently own a 2013 Altima with about 84,000 miles on it (fully paid off too).

My current job requires me to be at work even if there is bad weather. Even through I live in Georgia, the last few winter weather we had here had me stuck out in it. First time had to ditch the car because it got stuck on the road. Second time, I ditched it in a shopping center close to home that I could walk to the next morning to be able to get to work (no way I was going to get the car through the neighborhood).

I wanted to go back to the Explorer and with 4WD. How has the car performed in the snow? Is it worth getting the 2.4 ecoboost? I also have access to X-plan through my employer and through BJ's wholesale. Am I better off saving the time negotiating and using the X-plan right off the bat? Or will I save a significant amount of money negotiating using truecar?

Edit: Should I also be looking at getting the extended warranty with it as well?

Thank you everyone for the input. Looking forward to coming back to the Explorer family
 



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Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
All of these questions have been discussed in the Forum. There is a helpful 'Search' feature in the upper right.
As for snow; Snow Driving
Ecoboost discussion; 2.3L EcoBoost or NA 3.5L?
2.3 ecoboost
ESP thread; Ford Extended Service Plans (ESP)
Whether or not to get and ESP is up to you. I always have just for peace of mind but have only used it once on a tire issue with a Highlander. So far it hasn't been worth it but will likely get one again next time. There is also info in the 'Sticky' section of the first page on ESP purchase.
Various plans have also been discussed but they are mixed in various threads. I have no knowledge about them as I always lease my vehicles and have never checked into the plans.
The Explorer, because of its transverse mounted engine, has the water pump located inside the engine; Water pump failure leads to dead engine You may want to consider that if keeping the vehicle long term.
BTW, the Explorer is FWD biased switching automatically to AWD when required. It is not the same as the previous generations.
Good luck and welcome back.

Peter
 






Welcome to the forum, GTS25. Just this week, I used the BJs Wholesale Club "Ford Blue Oval Bundle" offer to purchase my 2018 Explorer. The BJs offer gives you X-Plan pricing plus $500 instant cash back plus a $500 BJs shopping card. I don't know if you can negotiate a better deal than that.

When I ordered my 2018 last August, I had negotiated a price that was $300 over dealer invoice with the understanding that I'd also be eligible for all incentives available at time of delivery. The BJs "Ford Blue Oval Bundle" yielded a much better price. In addition, I received all of Ford's year-end cash-back incentives.
 






No complaints about my 2.3L and the snow. It's not a fast car but it gets me there with very little drama, presuming you put the proper snow tires on it.
 






Welcome to the forum, GTS25. Just this week, I used the BJs Wholesale Club "Ford Blue Oval Bundle" offer to purchase my 2018 Explorer. The BJs offer gives you X-Plan pricing plus $500 instant cash back plus a $500 BJs shopping card. I don't know if you can negotiate a better deal than that.

When I ordered my 2018 last August, I had negotiated a price that was $300 over dealer invoice with the understanding that I'd also be eligible for all incentives available at time of delivery. The BJs "Ford Blue Oval Bundle" yielded a much better price. In addition, I received all of Ford's year-end cash-back incentives.

Hey Exit32. I have 16XP sport and I just paid it off too. Approximately how much back did you get in your 16 Platinum with 20K or so miles on it? I might consider going your route too, but I was always afraid that I would loose probably more then 10K if I trade in my XP Ssport with about the same 20K miles on it. Probably 15K at least I would guess.

I got a fully loaded XP sport 16 for 49K MSRP and was able to knock off 7K. The only option I did not want was the sunroof. It was a crazy fast transaction. it took me 30 min to buy my car. I went in with a TrueCar discount for 16XP Sport, with a coupon printed out, they did not have that specific XP Sport in stock any longer, but they matched the rebate and gave me 7K (6.9K to be exact) off from MSRP and then I waited from mid December, 2015 to mid Jan 2016 for them to build it.

I know that the smartest way is to get the best price for the car and then trade in with them if they give you an offer that is fair for our XP 16.
 






Hi Forddealz,

My 2016 Platinum was 27 months old with 21K miles when I traded it toward my 2018 Platinum. The dealer and I had agreed on $34K as the trade-in value when I ordered the 2018, so it cost me just about $15K to own the 2016 for 27 months. That's about $556 per month of ownership.

Don't know that I got an outstanding deal, but it was a fair deal. I believe everyone has to put food on the table, and my small-town dealership always delivers superb customer service.
 






Hi Forddealz,

My 2016 Platinum was 27 months old with 21K miles when I traded it toward my 2018 Platinum. The dealer and I had agreed on $34K as the trade-in value when I ordered the 2018, so it cost me just about $15K to own the 2016 for 27 months. That's about $556 per month of ownership.

Don't know that I got an outstanding deal, but it was a fair deal. I believe everyone has to put food on the table, and my small-town dealership always delivers superb customer service.

I agree depreciation is the most important number to pay attention to in car ownership. But dayum, $556 a month?? My 2013 Durango Crew (midlevel trim, leather, nav, etc.) averaged me about $250 a month over 51 months before I traded it on the Explorer a couple months ago. I'm expecting roughly the same level of value from the Explorer, or certainly no more than $300 a month since it's much better equipped.
 






After purchasing my 2016 outright I have come to the conclusion that anymore with the cost of the vehicles and with all that might or could go wrong that leasing would be the better way to go and just have perpetual payments. With then costing $40,000+ anymore and 60-72 month payment schedules it would be a lot cheaper in the long run, and you would be able to drive a new vehicle every couple of years.
 






Don't forget to consider new vehicle replacement insurance of some sort. If you total a new car, you could be out the depreciation and taxes -- getting black book value. My wife is a lawyer and have seen a few people go deeply underwater with totaled new cars. Here in British Columbia, our monopoly government run insurance has an add on plan called NVR+ (new vehicle replacement plus) that effectively replaces your car with the latest model year of the same, or you can just take the cash and buy something else. I pay about $500/year extra for that.
 






Let's get back on track and reply to the OP's concerns/questions.
 






My 2016 Platinum was 27 months old with 21K miles when I traded it toward my 2018 Platinum. The dealer and I had agreed on $34K as the trade-in value when I ordered the 2018, so it cost me just about $15K to own the 2016 for 27 months. That's about $556 per month of ownership.

Don't know that I got an outstanding deal, but it was a fair deal. I believe everyone has to put food on the table, and my small-town dealership always delivers superb customer service.[/QUOTE]

Sorry, i was away for a few days. Yeah, 15K of loss but I hope you did not pay MSRP and was able to negotiate a good deal on the 2018 one. 5K or so off from MSRP would cut the loss to 10K. Sorry Peter, back on topic now.
 






Hello All,

My family used to be all explorers owning a 94, 99, and 03. When I was in college, I sold my 99 explorer and went to an Altima because of the high millage I was putting on the vehicle and the insane gas prices at the time. I just graduated, married, and looking to add on to the family. I currently own a 2013 Altima with about 84,000 miles on it (fully paid off too).

My current job requires me to be at work even if there is bad weather. Even through I live in Georgia, the last few winter weather we had here had me stuck out in it. First time had to ditch the car because it got stuck on the road. Second time, I ditched it in a shopping center close to home that I could walk to the next morning to be able to get to work (no way I was going to get the car through the neighborhood).

I wanted to go back to the Explorer and with 4WD. How has the car performed in the snow? Is it worth getting the 2.4 ecoboost? I also have access to X-plan through my employer and through BJ's wholesale. Am I better off saving the time negotiating and using the X-plan right off the bat? Or will I save a significant amount of money negotiating using truecar?

Edit: Should I also be looking at getting the extended warranty with it as well?

Thank you everyone for the input. Looking forward to coming back to the Explorer family

Explorer performs fine in the snow. It depends of you have winter tires on it. Its all about the tires. Dealerships will try to offer you tire and wheel warranty and extended warranty. You have 3 years to decide if you want to extend your warranty, you don't have to do it when you purchase your truck.
 






I also have access to X-plan through my employer and through BJ's wholesale. Am I better off saving the time negotiating and using the X-plan right off the bat? Or will I save a significant amount of money negotiating using truecar?

How much total discount can you get off of MSRP with those methods? Looks pretty easy in Florida to get $4k off sticker without even trying. And there are plenty of 2017s still on the lots for $7-8k off sticker. I got over $8k off back in October without having to negotiate - just looked for the best discount online. The difference in future value between model years is roughly $3k give or take in my experience so getting a 2017 leftover for $4k less than a 2018 will make you better off financially in the long run.
 






...read the Eco boost posts on this forum, many feel that the 4cyl is not adequate for the Ex.
 






Thank you everyone for your input in my decision. I was looking at the 2018 over the 2017 because of the auto braking and adaptive cruse control that i did not see available on the 2017. That is why I looked at using the xplan on the 2018.
 






Thank you everyone for your input in my decision. I was looking at the 2018 over the 2017 because of the auto braking and adaptive cruse control that i did not see available on the 2017. That is why I looked at using the xplan on the 2018.
Are you sure the 2018 has Auto Braking? I just scanned the 2018 Order Guide this morning and did not see any mention of it. There is no phrase like that in the Owner's Manual either. Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) is available on 2017 models but likely depend upon which package you choose. I had it on my 2011 Limited and it's a feature I use almost every day.

Peter
 






The feature set is nearly identical between the two model years, with some features coming into lower trims. Nothing really new apart from some new trim items, front fascia, and Sync Connect.
 






OP, I had access to X-plan, but was able to negotiate a better deal actually by NOT using x-plan.
X-plan is a set price and FORD seems to be very strict about it...

Our sport stickered at $52,250, I haggled discount of $3,700 PLUS $2500 in rebates PLUS 0% for 72 months... That cost of financing is worth ~$3K (purchased early December 2017)

I would think you can play harder ball now because seems that there is still quite a bit of inventory...

Never thought I would buy a second explorer, but we are quite happy with it.
 






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