Speed-related noise behind radio, sounds like a speedo cable that I don't have | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Speed-related noise behind radio, sounds like a speedo cable that I don't have

myf16

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 22, 2012
Messages
153
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17
City, State
northern California
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 Explorer XLT 4WD
My 1996 4WD Explorer makes a noise above 20 mph which sounds EXACTLY LIKE a damaged speedometer cable. Trouble is, this vehicle doesn't have a speedometer cable! (Or does it?)

I would like to replace the noisy part if I could only figure out what part that is. The noise seems to come from underneath the top of the dashboard above the radio. I'm baffled.
 



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My 1996 4WD Explorer makes a noise above 20 mph which sounds EXACTLY LIKE a damaged speedometer cable. Trouble is, this vehicle doesn't have a speedometer cable! (Or does it?)

I would like to replace the noisy part if I could only figure out what part that is. The noise seems to come from underneath the top of the dashboard above the radio. I'm baffled.
@myf16
How loud is this noise? How is driveability? Does everything seem normal? I have a high-frequency clicking in my dashboard, 2004 Ex, which frightens me, it ain't always there, it's tone does not change with vehicle speed, load, temperature, phase of the moon, or anything else. Scares me because it closely resembles a clicking relay gone nuts. Should I pull the dashboard apart in my discontent?

Why not find out if your vehicle has a speedometer cable. BTW, back in the day, speedometer cables gone "dry" made a rather unique squealing sound. EXACTLY LIKE your description.
 






It has been driving normally with the noise for several thousand miles. The noise is similar to that of a toy car when you pull it backwards to wind up the spring mechanism. It starts at about 20 mph and comes and goes depending on speed, but mostly it's there at all higher speeds and it's louder at higher speeds.
 






If you have a 4.0 SOHC it may be the passenger side bank (rear timing chain cassette) t-chain.

When they start to fail they rattle very lightly like a heat shield or speedo cable and finally fail as either the cassette guide goes and totally loss of the upper end OR the debris from the broken guides clogs the oil pickup and toasts the bottom and upper end.

No worries if it is the tchain you just have to pull the engine to do it on the SOHC :)

Id also check the heat shields, trans cooler lines, and anything under the truck for a source first
 






No, it's the regular OHV 4.0 liter V6, which leaves the truck underpowered. I wish I could use my mechanical stethoscope to pinpoint the noise, but it's hard to poke around under the hood or under the truck at 20 mph. Whatever it is sounds like something small. That is to say, the sound is free of any low pitch components.
 






No, it's the regular OHV 4.0 liter V6, which leaves the truck underpowered. I wish I could use my mechanical stethoscope to pinpoint the noise, but it's hard to poke around under the hood or under the truck at 20 mph. Whatever it is sounds like something small. That is to say, the sound is free of any low pitch components.
@myf16
No, it really isn't hard. I've successfully diagnosed both front and rear wheel bearings as being the noise source, as opposed to differential gear support bearing noise or pinion bearing noise, using this method.. Put the truck up on 4 jackstands very securly placed, wheels off the ground. Place in 4X4 HIGH, have a confederate (usually a wife), start the engine, place in D, and carefully run up to the desired road speed, while you crawl around underneath with your stethoscope, which can be a long screwdriver. I use Craftsman screwdrivers, since they have a nice rounded end on the plastic handle. Hold the tip of the blade against a surface where noise production is suspected, and at the same time depress your ear's little thingy closed with the round handle. You'll be surprised how many unusual sounds you will be able to single out, never before heard. I did this on the underside of rear differential, having a grumbling sound of bearing failure, heard the noise detected in the drivers seat, but found it much louder at the wheel bearing hub. Definite diagnosis! Here's the failed hub bearing outer race.
wheel_10.jpg


Some of my methods are not to be found in the literature. It is dangerous to crawl around under a vehicle with it's drivetrain in motion, yes. OTOH, only a moron would allow contact with rotating machinery under such conditions, won't you agree? I've messed with cars since my teens, 60 years. Formulated ways of my own, because of limited finances. I hope this helps you. imp

PS: A real doctor's stethoscope would be invaluable for this work.
 






I would totally disagree with the above very respectfully. Jackstands are no where near stable enough to handle the vehicle in motion safely.

I have a full size vehicle hoist in my shop which is the only way to safely perform what is suggested. As an altenative use a mechanics REMOTE stehoscope that were traditionally wired but now are also available in FM and Bluetooth versions:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/162335...7290-0%26rvr_id%3D1170986318454&ul_noapp=true
 






I have a harbor freight metal stethoscope which is useful but I'm pretty sure the noise is inside the cabin somewhere. It's annoying but not loud. I could hardly hear it over wind and rain noise on my last drive. It's not too different from the sound a tiny fan would make if its bearings were gone.
 






No worries if it is the tchain you just have to pull the engine to do it on the SOHC :)
Or the transmission. Factory shop manual has in-vehicle instructions for timing chain repair.
 






I would totally disagree with the above very respectfully. Jackstands are no where near stable enough to handle the vehicle in motion safely.

I have a full size vehicle hoist in my shop which is the only way to safely perform what is suggested. As an altenative use a mechanics REMOTE stehoscope that were traditionally wired but now are also available in FM and Bluetooth versions:
@FF_RSQExplorer
Few of us are fortunate enough to have a lift. My particular stands are beyond a doubt more stable than the vehicle resting on it's tires. If a guy has and uses H.S. jack stands, then the possible consequences are obvious. But to flatly state that ALL jack stands are not stable is an awfully broad statement. imp
 






@FF_RSQExplorer
Few of us are fortunate enough to have a lift. My particular stands are beyond a doubt more stable than the vehicle resting on it's tires. If a guy has and uses H.S. jack stands, then the possible consequences are obvious. But to flatly state that ALL jack stands are not stable is an awfully broad statement. imp

I'd still respectfully disagree. Sure if you use breadtruck 4 ton stands they would hold the load and are stable enough, the issue is what they are placed on.

Unlevel concrete, broken concrete, ashpalt, gravel or some other that perfectly flat stable concrete- and I stand by my opinion.

I'd also submit to you my HS shop teacher was decapitated working on a car on jack stands in a manner when the stand moved on the pavement. It was set up as you described and in my FD career I've seen a host injuried caused by similar setups and of course many others very sketchy
 






@FF_RSQExplorer
It is surprising how many accidents occur during the use of automotive lifts. I worked for a large retailer which had several
hundred auto repair centers. In theory, employees there had been adequately and appropriately trained, many were highly experienced. The incidents I heard of, and several which I saw, were beyond belief. One of the worst I recall was one of the older, subsequently removed, hydraulic lifts having a single large hydraulic cylinder mounted in the basement below the shop. A 1-ton Ford van toppled off from top height, the safety column having been in place. One of the vehicle support channels up front broke off the hoist. Fortunately, no one was beneath the van at the time.

Please understand, I am not disagreeing with your contention. Many individuals working under vehicles undoubtedly should not be doing so. I suspect the collapse shown below was indeed caused by faulty mounting or concrete support, or both. I tried a search for accident data stats but came away with none. imp

lift_f10.jpg
 






I've confirmed that the noise is NOT coming from the odometer assembly. The odometer and speedometer were disabled when I recently blew fuse number 11 but the noise persisted. It does seem to be coming from somewhere in the dash near the radio.
 






The noise has disappeared for no apparent reason. One possibility is that the wiper blade rubber had torn loose and could have been vibrating against the windshield. I put on new wiper blades before a long trip about the same time the noise stopped.
 






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