I'll keep that in mind.Get yourself a bottle of K-Seal and keep it in the glove box. If you see it start leaking again, throw it in the radiator. Stuff really works. It's stopped some minor (and a not-so-minor) coolant leaks for me.
I'll keep that in mind.
Any ideas what would cause AC to stop blowing on normal acceleration? Was fine before radiator install and past few days. Until today. Like everytime leaving red-light vents stop blowing till I'm at speed than start blowing cold again.
would that tiny grey vac line that goes to the heater control valve have any effect? Its broken in half, might have happened when I moved lines off heater core mounts.Sounds like a disconnect in the line going to the vacuum reservoir or perhaps a bad check valve in that path. When you accelerate the engine vacuum drops, and it needs that reservoir to keep the door in the air plenum at the right position.
That HCV is what allows hot coolant through the heater core. Without vacuum on it, the air will be heated by the coolant. You need all vacuum lines intact.would that tiny grey vac line that goes to the heater control valve have any effect? Its broken in half, might have happened when I moved lines off heater core mounts.
Just odd was working perfect, now this. One thing after another lol.
would that tiny grey vac line that goes to the heater control valve have any effect? Its broken in half, might have happened when I moved lines off heater core mounts.
Just odd was working perfect, now this. One thing after another lol.
Ok, I'm confused here I guess.
When you say, it stops blowing, and shuts off, what do you mean?
Air just goes from cold to warm, and back to cold, or nothing comes out the vents, like the blower shuts off, or the air changes vents to the defrost only, then returns to the others upon lower rpm?
When you say stops working, do you mean that it stops blowing out the center dash vents and then returns once you're at speed? If so that broken vac line is the problem. You'd be surprised how small of a vac leak will cause that. As say, the engine produces minimum vacuum while accelerating. That's why the vacuum ball/reservoir is there. It acts as a buffer, but if you have a vacuum leak there's not enough reservoir vacuum and the HVAC default air direction is to blow out the defroster vents.
I'm dating myself, but when I was a child most cars/trucks used engine vacuum to work the windshield wiper motor. When climbing a hill the wipers would almost stop due to loss of vacuum, Most used a double action fuel pump to produce more vacuum but even this wasn't enough to overcome the loss of engine vacuum. The first vacuum reservoir I recall was in our '65 Thunderbird, which had electric wipers, but also had a bunch of vacuum operated accessories.