Humm when turning left at speed

[RichardSlay]

I hear a humming sound when going around a left-hand curve above 40-50 mph. I'm pretty sure its a wheel bearing. The wrench light/ABS/ and traction control lights just came on as well. Since I hear the hum when turning left does that indicate it's the left front wheel bearing? Or is there a way to know without trial and error.

2006 Explorer 4WD

thanks,
Richard (newbie)

 

[Rcflyer330]

look at my post in this thread its the third one down.

Loud growl front drivers side 40mph (not wheel bearing)

 

[imp]

I hear a humming sound when going around a left-hand curve above 40-50 mph. I'm pretty sure its a wheel bearing. The wrench light/ABS/ and traction control lights just came on as well. Since I hear the hum when turning left does that indicate it's the left front wheel bearing? Or is there a way to know without trial and error.

2006 Explorer 4WD

thanks,
Richard (newbie)

@RichardSlay
When you go around a left-hand curve, the vehicle leans towards the OUTSIDE of the curve, throwing more weight on the RIGHT SIDE. A right side wheel bearing going bad will growl during left turns more than straight ahead, even less when turning right! Diagnosed quite a few that way.

IF it's a wheel bearing......imp

 

[RichardSlay]

look at my post in this thread its the third one down.

Loud growl front drivers side 40mph (not wheel bearing)

It's not a loud growl (yet) but I do feel a slight vibration when turning left. Going straight at any speed is fine. Sounds like it's the right front wheel bearing. The right rear was changed not too long ago so hopefully its still ok.

 

[RichardSlay]

@RichardSlay
When you go around a left-hand curve, the vehicle leans towards the OUTSIDE of the curve, throwing more weight on the RIGHT SIDE. A right side wheel bearing going bad will growl during left turns more than straight ahead, even less when turning right! Diagnosed quite a few that way.

IF it's a wheel bearing......imp

Makes sense. thanks!

 

[imp]

Makes sense. thanks!

@RichardSlay
FWIW, when my rear bearing went out, curves made no difference in the noise level. Possibly due to independent rear suspension. Anyway, we drove on a 4000 mile trip knowing there was slight hum at the start, bad when we got back. Could not tell if center-section noise, bearing, or wheel bearing. Put Ex on stands, had wife punch 4X4 HIGH, ran it up around 30 mph, all wheels spinning, stethoscoped center section under pinion and sides, botyh wheel hubs, most definitely it was the left side wheel bearing. Many hollered when I described my method here, claiming it's dangerous. Hell, isn't it just as dangerous crawling under a jacked-up vehicle? imp

 

[RichardSlay]

Yeah that does sound a bit dangerous. I doubt I'll try that. LOL. I plan on replacing the right front hub/bearing and see if that fixes it. Headed out of town for a couple of weeks so it will have to wait till I get back. Rock Auto has them for as low as $50 and up to over $200. I only drive this car about 3-4000 miles a year. Wonder if a cheap one will work out?

 

[imp]

Yeah that does sound a bit dangerous. I doubt I'll try that. LOL. I plan on replacing the right front hub/bearing and see if that fixes it. Headed out of town for a couple of weeks so it will have to wait till I get back. Rock Auto has them for as low as $50 and up to over $200. I only drive this car about 3-4000 miles a year. Wonder if a cheap one will work out?

@RichardSlay
I bought the cheapies, China-made, against warnings from other members. Tested hardness of bearing material, it was up there with Timken, they've been spinnin' now for ~ 60,000 miles. Not to mean Timken aren't better. imp

 

[MotorCityFats13]

that is the way eric the car guy checks hubs but its on a hoist much safer but works and I did the cheap ebay bearing on one of my fronts at 120k still kicking at 175k... they sell them in pairs for a better cost than single so I have a spare ..... i also was a quality inspector at the place heat treating the hub housings for SKF so I also tested many hubs I brought in from junkyards and friends that failed so I will also agree with imp's statement on hardness and the only real difference is the bearing they all choose to load into the outer ring

here is one of my inspection samples on hardness pattern

 

[imp]

@MotorCityFats13
Thing about bearings as well as seals is that bearing wear surfaces need to be very hard, and seal materials, the rubber part, need to be compounded carefully, cured properly, trimmed if a non-molded lip design, the garter spring must be of proper specification, channel OD coating is a lubricant for installation as well as a sealant after being "driven home". The "trim" operation skives the angled surface of the rubber seal lip to the necessary angle, stopping while allowing the proper unloaded lip ID to remain. imp

 

[RichardSlay]

So I replaced the right front bearing housing and the noise and vibration went away. That's good. The wrench, ABS, and Traction Control lights still come on though. I guess I've still got a problem to track down.....maybe the left front ABS sensor is bad?

 

[RichardSlay]

Can the dealer plug into the vehicle and verify which wheel is the problem? I'm guessing it's the left front since I just did the right front and both rear bearings have replaced in the last 50-60K miles. The car has 220K so I'm sure the left front could use a change anyway.

 

[Rcflyer330]

Yes the dealer should be able to find out what is causing the wrench, abs, and traction control lights. Or if you have a scanner that can scan the abs module you could pull any codes that are stored.

 

[RichardSlay]

Well I changed he left front bearing assembly and it didn't fix the problem. Took it to a repair shop and the problem was the right rear axles. Something was broken in the speed sensor I think he said. Anyway, they fixed it and I'm good to go.

 

[MotorCityFats13]

Well I changed he left front bearing assembly and it didn't fix the problem. Took it to a repair shop and the problem was the right rear axles. Something was broken in the speed sensor I think he said. Anyway, they fixed it and I'm good to go.

sounds like the typical tone ring issues and i think they are one piece so the whole axle shaft has to be replaced.... a cheap elm327 bluetooth adapter and a phone app has saved me tons of headaches for these issues since torque can tell you the wheel speeds

my last issue the 4wd, trac control and abs went in opp and torque told me my front right wheel speed was always 0 mph good ol 30 second diagnosis