Heater blowing out top vents

[DWZ]

Crap - I had to do a meme search for that one. Yikes!!

 

[Centaurus5.0]

lol

Welcome to the future daddy-o!

Glad you got it figured out.

All I'll ever need for climate controls, no explanation needed.

 

[DWZ]

lol - I'm so glad we're done with that. I like being able to set the temp and not touch it for hours.

lol

Welcome to the future daddy-o!

Glad you got it figured out.

All I'll ever need for climate controls, no explanation needed.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

I here you. Technology does have it's merits.

I fiddle with mine so often I don't even realize I'm doing it half the time. Would that be considered part time full auto climate control?

Enjoy your new wheels and welcome to the forum!

 

[Magzdance1]

Greetings All. First time poster here. This is the closest thread I have found to the issue I just discovered two days ago in my 2015 Explorer Sport. Same as Bradel at the top of this thread, My heat and fan speed settings function normally but I cannot get any air to blow through my main front vents. All airflow comes out of the defrost/window vents and from what I can tell, the floor vents as well. I have cycled through the available manual settings and can feel/hear the airflow changing as I do but no matter what I select, the front vents do not output air, even with Auto disabled. It seems like just that front vent setting (both in "mix" upper/lower setting and upper setting exclusively) wont work.

I did find the post about the dealer stating the system was functioning normally by using only the defrost/window vents to warm the vehicle up interesting, as I live in Wisconsin and we have been in a deep freeze all winter, but even once the vehicle gets up to temp and the cabin is warm, I cant get the front vents to work. I purchased this explorer used back in October and at that time the AC and all vents worked normally, I really only noticed this lack of front vent output two days ago and now Im on a mission to find the root cause. Any additional clarity you all can lend would be helpful as when Im searching forums, most all come back to the blend door actuator as the root cause which I don't think this is.

 

[zpd307]

its is called a mode actuator. as stated, it is the upper actuator on the driver side of ducting. I just changed it on my wifes 16. I was able to get it, after several hours, lots of cussing, and bloody hands. hers was stuck on vent. I was almost willing to pay the $1000 to get it fixed.....

 

[fireball 440]

Same issue here on my 2015 PI. Usually stuck on defrost, once in a great while will go to floor but never ever the vents. I will need vents for AC soon.

 

[Ddecarlo]

Recently my 2015 start having an issue where the air would only blow out of the defrost. No matter which option I choose it will not change position. The option i touch on the touch screen changes but no actual change happens. I have changed the blend door actuators but that did not fix the problem. thank you any help you can give me.

 

[peterk9]

^^ Your thread was merged with this existing one.
There are several actuators. Did you change them all? There are a few other threads about HVAC control issues.

Peter

 

[Bigggggrick]

its is called a mode actuator. as stated, it is the upper actuator on the driver side of ducting. I just changed it on my wifes 16. I was able to get it, after several hours, lots of cussing, and bloody hands. hers was stuck on vent. I was almost willing to pay the $1000 to get it fixed.....

Is there any instructions available to replace this module available on line. More time than money so I would like to replace this $30 part for the minimum out of pocket. If someone can direct me it would be great.
Thanks

 

[peterk9]

Is there any instructions available to replace this module available on line. More time than money so I would like to replace this $30 part for the minimum out of pocket. If someone can direct me it would be great.
Thanks

Welcome to the Forum.
I don't recall anyone posting about online instructions so they would likely have to do an online search to find any. Have you looked?

Peter

 

[2013XLT]

its is called a mode actuator. as stated, it is the upper actuator on the driver side of ducting. I just changed it on my wifes 16. I was able to get it, after several hours, lots of cussing, and bloody hands. hers was stuck on vent. I was almost willing to pay the $1000 to get it fixed.....

Fixing to tackle this on 2013 XLT. Any words of advice?

 

[peterk9]

Fixing to tackle this on 2013 XLT. Any words of advice?

Welcome to the Forum.
According to the previous post, patience and bandaids seem to be required.

Peter

 

[Killie]

So I recently had my vent mode actuator (still don't know the official name of this actuator) stop functioning. The actuator was stuck on the floor vents. I read this post, which helped a lot, and found the location of the actuator I needed. The 3D drawing on the first page of the post, and the ghetto drawing over top the 3D drawing actually helped significantly. The person that listed what each blue highlighted component was, was also a great help. The actuator I needed was definitely number 1 on the list. I went through a very basic diagnosis process to figure out that was the broken component, and I think I got a little lucky with that part. However, I'm not going to bore you with diagnosis, I'm going to tell you the easiest way to remove and replace that component.

The tools I used for the job:
Trim removal kit from harbor freight: Trim And Molding Tool Set 5 Pc
Dewalt electric drill. Obviously doesn't have to be Dewalt. Any drill would work.
Handheld screwdriver with interchangeable bit head.
Dewalt Right angle flex shaft: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-Right-Angle-Flex-Shaft/1000282635
Dewalt Pivoting Magnetic Bit Holder: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-3-1-2-in-Magnetic-Screwdriving-Bit-Holder/3421552
Dewalt Magnetic 5/16 Nut Driver Bit: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-FlexTorq-5-16-in-x-2-in-Nutsetter-Impact-Driver-Bit/3422438
9/32 Nut Driver Bit
Craftsman Flex Claw Pickup Tool: https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Flexclaw-Pickup-Tool/1000594933
Flexible LED Tip Flashlight (similar to this one): https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-...flexible+led+flashlight&qid=1569721656&sr=8-7
12" Long flat head screwdriver. You could get away with any long, skinny prying device.

For the job, I only needed to remove 2 pieces of trim and the instrument cluster. I DID NOT have to remove the brake pedal, gas pedal, or dash to remove and replace this part. I'm not saying my way is the right way to do this, but I managed to get the piece out and a new piece in. As a caveat, the SAE nut driver bits I used had some play in them. I'm sure there is a metric equivalent that I should have used, but these worked for me.

1. Start by removing the plastic trim piece by the brake pedal. You'll need the 9/32 Nut Driver Bit. It should only have 2 bolts near the OBD port. Remove those bolts and finagle the piece out.
2. Lower the steering wheel to the lowest possible setting. Use the trim tools to remove the trim around the instrument cluster. It just clips in, with the two primary clips being on the top of the cluster. It's also attached to the steering wheel with a leather-esque flap. This piece of trim was also plugged into an electrical plug on the lower right side for some reason. Disconnect this, and remove the trim piece.
3. Remove the instrument cluster. It has 4 bolts. 9/32 Nut Driver Bit again. You can use any combination of the flex shaft and pivoting bit to get these bolts out. The instrument cluster pulls straight out. It has a single electrical connection. I couldn't get the plug out, and I actually left the instrument cluster attached for the entire process. It wasn't hard to work around.
4. You'll be able to see the actuator now. It is behind a metal bar (possibly the frame?), on the right side. I used the Flexible LED flashlight to fish through and find how this was attached. You'll be able to get 2 of the 3 bolts holding the actuator in from this part. One is nearest you on the upper-most portion of the actuator. The other is on the farthest side of the actuator towards the engine approximately upper middle of the actuator. To remove these bolts, I originally used a 3/8 in. drive ratchet, with a 5/16 socket, a Universal joint, and five 3/8 extenders at approximately 15" long. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT APPROACH!!! It took a lot of patience to get those 2 bolts out. I was also switching my approach from entering from the top, to trying to reach the bolts starting from the brake pedal. Big mistake. You can EASILY remove both of these bolts with the Right Angle Flex Shaft, using the Pivot adapter, and the 5/16 nut driver bit from this upper (and more comfortable) position. I'd HIGHLY recommend getting the magnetic version of the tools. The bolts SHOULDN'T fall out when using the magnetic tools. Once you shove this contraption into the cavity above the metal bar and below the vent ducting, you'll quickly realize your hand doesn't fit in there, and the pivot adapter keeps falling when you try to place it on the bolt. No problem. Use the flex claw to grab the pivot adapter, and precisely guide the nut driver bit to the bolts. It worked like a charm for me. I forgot to attach the drill originally, and I just grabbed a screwdriver with the interchangeable bit head, and used that. Once you remove both bolts, then the "fun" part begins.
5. Bolt 3 you will have to get from the brake pedal floor board area. At least, that's what I had to do. The 2013 Explorer Limited I have has the adjustable brake/accelerator pedals. I don't know if that helped me with the job, but I figured I'd use them and set them as close to the engine as possible. I also had to adjust the driver seat all the way back. The seat rail was a real pain and unavoidable, so I put a blanket down on the floor and put a small pillow on the seat rail for comfort. I also used a padded stool outside the vehicle for me to lay down as comfortably as possible. For reference, I'm a 5'8", 195lb, broad shoulder guy. I fit pretty snug, but I had enough room to move my arms around inside the cavity. The actuator is quite high in the cavity from this position, and was difficult to locate at first. The LED flashlight helped A LOT here. I'd recommend running the flex claw through the top and setting it near the actuator to give you some kind of bearing. You'll see the blend door actuator from here as well. The one you need is well above that. You will be able to see the actuator's electrical connection from this vantage point as well. The connector has a red piece on it (that may help you find the actuator). The bolt is very near the connector. When laying on your back and looking directly up at the connector the bolt will be to the left of the connector (towards the steering wheel). I used the same flex shaft, pivot adapter, nut driver bit contraption. You'll be able to fish the tool into the cavity using your hand. Try different paths around the steering column, pedals, and other connectors. I did this part without the drill attached and used the screwdriver, but this time it was on purpose. Trying to fish that tool through with the drill attached would be difficult.
6. The actuator is no longer held in. I used the long flat head screwdriver I had to pry the actuator out of its keyhole. I had to pry from the upper section. Then I had to get underneath near the brake pedal again to get the actuator out. Again, try different paths to get to the actuator. I was able to physically grab (almost palm) the actuator with a specific path, unfortunately I don't recall how I got around each thing. I lowered the actuator the best I could to not cross its electrical connection with any other connector. I eventually got it to the lowest point the electrical connector would let me (which was about level with the trim near the OBD connector). To remove the actuator's electrical connection, you will have to pull that red tab away from the actuator, then the connector comes out easily.
7. Now you're ready to install the new part. I originally thought, I'd do these steps in reverse order. Nope. Don't do that. I connected the electrical connector and tried to fish that actuator up the cavity. I scraped my hands, I got the actuator stuck for a good 15 minutes, and swore a lot. Easier way to do it: DO NOT CONNECT THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION. Take the flex claw and insert it from the top, and fish it through to the lowest point in the cavity with the best possible path for the actuator to be raised. Attach the flex claw to the actuator (MAKE SURE ITS ATTACHED IN A PROPER ORIENTATION WITH THE CONNECTOR DOWNWARD) and raise it up with the claw. You should only have to minorly guide it through the cavity with your hands. Leave the actuator attached and in the upper part of the cavity near the place it's supposed to be installed. Route the electrical connector to the actuator. I had to disconnect the actuator, and use the flex claw to pull up the electrical connector. You may not have to do this. Either way, do what you have to do to get that connector attached to the actuator. PUSH IN THE RED TAB!
8. Now you'll have to align the stud with the keyhole. Of course mine did not line up with the screw holes and the keyhole. I turned on the car at this point, and lined up with actuator with its keyhole as best as I could. I then constantly switched from floor to panel vents to get the stud lined up correctly with the keyhole. Once the actuator seated in the keyhole, I still constantly switched from floor to panel vents until the actuator was lined up with bolt holes. It did eventually seat with the keyhole and the bolt holes. The temptation to not install the bolts washed over me lol. I figured this was a bad call. I decided to get the two upper bolts first because I was already there, and the actuator would be held just fine by these two for me to get the third. I installed these the same way I pulled them out: flex shaft, pivot head, magnetic nut driver bit. SUPER EASY. The third bolt was about the same challenge as it was to take it out, but the magnetic bit helped a lot for the installation. Honestly it took me about 15 minutes to get the three bolts in.
9. Time to test before putting it all back together. If it's functioning, install the instrument cluster with the 4 bolts. Make sure the electrical connection is installed. The trim is next, again make sure the electrical connection is installed. Finally the brake pedal trim. It took a little finagling to get it in, but it's the last step. Finish strong. 2 bolts, and you're done.

So that was my journey through this process. I did a lot of the trial and error for you, and found this to be the most effective way to accomplish the task. I don't know if you could find magnetic metric nut drivers, but that's one thing I would have done differently. I also would have gotten the flex shaft and pivot bit for the removal, instead of my ghetto 3/8 in. extensions and U joint. I hope this helps anyone with the same issue.

 

[Drcool]

Hello guy, I have 2011 ford explorer, the climate control panel at under the MFT don't work, as soon as I start the car, it blows hot hest constantly from defrost, the fan speed won't increase or decrease, no light on the climate control button old any ideas what the problem could be?
Thanks

 

[Drcool]

There was another member who also was stuck with heat blowing from the defrost vents and was not able to change it. His issue was a bad actuator. Your situation seems a little different in that you were able to change it once you cycled the key before. So what you're saying is that now nothing to do with Climate works. You can't change blower speed or change temperature settings. Is that right? Have you tried doing a System Reset from the MFT screen?

Peter

Hello Peter, thanks for your contribution to this topic, please I am currently having this same issue as described here, has anyone discovered a solution to this problem yet?

Mine the heat blows out from defrost as soon as I start the car, the speed will not change, I tested the wiring harness that sends power to the climate control center console, and it does have a constant ground and positive supply..

 

[Drcool]

Which of the actuator is responsible for this? Did you mean door blend motor?

 

[Drcool]

Hello, what was the solution to your problem cos I am currently undergoing the same problems,?

 

[peterk9]

Which of the actuator is responsible for this? Did you mean door blend motor?

This diagram was taken from the 2011-2015 Explorer Component Views in the List of Useful Thread in the 'Sticky' section.
I 'guessing' it might be C236. But it's only a guess.

Peter

 

[peterk9]

Hello guy, I have 2011 ford explorer, the climate control panel at under the MFT don't work, as soon as I start the car, it blows hot hest constantly from defrost, the fan speed won't increase or decrease, no light on the climate control button old any ideas what the problem could be?
Thanks

Your thread and posts were merged with this one on the same issue.

Peter