Charging system

[Mikealine71]

Hi all I have a 99 mountaineer 5.0 v8 I changed alternator but it still isn't charging. I'm going to fully charge battery and check all connectors. Is there anything else I should do or something I could've done wrong? I'm a newbie and use videos to fix any problems I encounter I admit I know little about cars but taking it to a shop isn't an option for me. Also battery is new however it read 9 on multimeter I'm guessing after disconnected a few days it's drained and that could possibly be the issue? Keep in mind I'm a woman that is just learning how to work on vechicle so feel free to explain like I'm a two year old don't assume I have common sense

 

[Hacra]

After being disconnected the battery shouldn't drain at that rate, unless it already was at 9 volts.

Charge it to full and measure if it accepts charge properly.

Fully charged automotive batteries should measure at 12.6 volts or above. When the engine is running, this measurement should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts.

Edit: check that all wires are connected properly to alternator and to battery.

 

[Mikealine71]

Ok thank you I will try to charge battery to correct voltage and recheck connections. I am going to see if I have a light tester to check fusable link I believe it's called? Thanks for response!

 

[koda2000]

There is a large "mega" fuse on the rear of the power distribution box under the hood. Check the fuse to make sure it's good and also remove it to make sure its connections are clean. You can test for voltage at the fuse. It should read around 14.5 volts with the engine running/alternator charging. Also check the fuses on the left side of the dash.

Do you have a Volt-Ohm meter? If so with the engine running check the alternators output voltage on the large wire bolted to the back of the alternator. If you're only seeing battery voltage there the alternator (assuming it's good) is not getting switched ON. Does the BATT/CHG light on the instrument cluster come on during the bulb check (key ON)? This light bulb must work or the alternator will not get switched ON when the engine starts. If the light works but stays on with the engine running the alternator is not charging. If the alternator is good you most likely have a wiring problem (bad connection or blown fuse or fuse-able link). It may be necessary to replace the alternator's plug(s) if they are loose or appear burnt.

A good battery should not loose much voltage if disconnected over only a few days during this time of year. A fully charged, good battery should measure around 12.6 volts, which I would not expect to change after a couple of days while being disconnected. Maybe .1v.

 

[Mikealine71]

Thank you for your replies sorry I'm just getting back and working on his car for days it's so frustrating. So after a new alternator I also put in another battery I started it so I can at least get it off the street put it in the driveway. But it's still is reading low voltage I checked the back of the alternator where the line goes to the battery that was good well 12 volts with the battery was and the mega fuse was good they were 12 volt volts as well. Everything is pointing to the alternator again could oreillys have sold me a bunk part? Before I go back to raising hell the only other things I can think of is the connection that goes into the back of the alternator I don't know what it's called sorry it's you know the pin plug that or the in fuse able link and I'm also going to check the pulleys and the belt make sure they look good. Thanks for everybody's health is there anything else you guys can think of? It's giving me all the symptoms of just the alternator failing if I hadn't just bought it that's what I would assume . Only good thing I can say about all this is that Im really learning a lot about the cars. The simple little alternator change has been four or five days now. I live right off main Street in my little town where everybody's giving me a hard time every time they pass by me. Saying oh you haven't fixed it yet? I'm bound and determined to get this done on my own. Thanks for any and all help!

 

[Mikealine71]

Also yes battery light comes on and voltage reads almost zero on dashboard. I was happy it started but when I tested voltage while running it was slowly going down.

 

[fast_dave]

@Mikealine71

Just sayin' - For your sanity, to eliminate ALL variables; bring (BOTH) Batteries and the Alternator to O Reilly.

Have them test the Alternator, and LOAD TEST the batteries - they do it for free.

Bad "rebuilt" alternators are not uncommon.

One bad cell in a battery is not uncommon.

Good luck and report back!

 

[koda2000]

12 volts measured at the rear of the alternator with the engine running is NOT GOOD. You should be seeing at least 14+ volts. If the BATT light on the dash does not go OUT once the engine is running, the alternator/voltage regulator is possibly bad, or at least not getting switched ON. As previously said, you may have a wiring/connection issue. Replacement electrical connectors are available from RockAuto and from most auto parts stores. I find O'Reilly's reman parts seem to be bad out of the box fairly often as compared to NAPA's, AutoZone's or Advance's reman parts. I never buy my parts from O-Reilly's if I can help it. They do offer the best quality loaner tools though.

 

[Mikealine71]

Thanks everyone for the help,deep down I thought the same thing but didn't want to have to remove alternator. I know for others it's probably a breeze but it was a nightmare for me second time should be easier. My problem was I couldn't find where the 3/8 square was to release tension. Turns out I had to use 15 mm and getting between the fan was hard but hopefully easier this time. Really makes me mad because I had them test my old one just to be safe , I was certain it was culprit but why wouldn't they test the one they sold me also for both our piece of mind? Seems pretty straightforward but no..... I've really learned a lot and want to thank everyone for sharing their knowledge. I knew nothing about cars and after divorce all I left with was a piece of crap car but we have memories now and I won't part with her lol. I've learned a ton and I know it'll take me three times longer than the average person but I still take pride in getting it done

 

[Mikealine71]

Before I freak out at auto parts store I tested the connector to the alternator the green and red I think it is with a test light and it came on so I can safely eliminate anything electrical correct? I did mega fuse etc I feel like I have eliminated everything apart from the serpentine not spinning properly. I apologise for so many questions I have no one else to ask so this is very helpful I have to find a ride to part store so I'm covering all my bases before hand. But I'm beggining to think it's the obvious alternator which I never considered since new. Boy does that make me mad all my time and energy money and pride because they sold a bad part. Never going there again

 

[fast_dave]

Before I freak out at auto parts store I tested the connector to the alternator the green and red I think it is with a test light and it came on so I can safely eliminate anything electrical correct? I did mega fuse etc I feel like I have eliminated everything apart from the serpentine not spinning properly. I apologise for so many questions I have no one else to ask so this is very helpful I have to find a ride to part store so I'm covering all my bases before hand. But I'm beggining to think it's the obvious alternator which I never considered since new. Boy does that make me mad all my time and energy money and pride because they sold a bad part. Never going there again

@Mikealine71

I'm having a hard time understanding what you have written - you might want to go back, read what you wrote, and give it another shot.

In the meantime, get a ride to O Reilly, take your Alternator & Batteries, and have them tested.

Good Luck and welcome to the forum!

 

[Mikealine71]

Sorry the main point is before I go and return the part is there any last thing I should try in the connection because getting belt on and off was very difficult for me and I just wanted to be sure I double checked everything. I believe I have so I'm off to get them tested which is a joke since I just bought both of them two days ago.(alternator and battery)

 

[CDW6212R]

Have you confirmed that the large mega fuse is good, the one at the PDB(power distribution box)?

As said, when running the voltage should be over 14v, high 14's when the battery is not fully charged. Don't have things on when checking the alternator and battery, turn of the lights and radio, AC etc.

The battery should read over 12v when it's been resting(not with the engine running or having it just shut off).

Are you sure they sold you the right alternator, for a 5.0 or 4.0 SOHC engine? Be sure that all three mounting bolts are properly in place, the wrong alternator will only have two of those bolts line up.

 

[fast_dave]

Sorry the main point is before I go and return the part is there any last thing I should try in the connection because getting belt on and off was very difficult for me and I just wanted to be sure I double checked everything. I believe I have so I'm off to get them tested which is a joke since I just bought both of them two days ago.(alternator and battery)

@Mikeline71

You're spinning your wheels...

Point 1) Many rebuilt alternators are rebuilt in Mexico, under very poor quality control, and it is not uncommon/unheard of to hear of them coming bad right from the store shelf.

Point 2) Many (if not all) car batteries now come from Mexico, built under poor quality control, and it is not uncommon/unheard of for them to have a bad cell new from the store shelf.

Everybody on this list can tell you a story about Point 1 & 2...

You have a 20 year old vehicle - and this is just the start of your automotive adventure

Suggestion A) To begin building your tool box, my suggestion is to get a reasonably priced, but decent quality, 1 Foot Long Flex Head Ratchet / Socket Wrench i.e. Craftsman 44851 for $18. The flex head allows you to get in a tight spot and easily insert it into the 3/8" square "hole" on the belt tensioner - allowing you to overcome the tension and thus easily remove the belt. It will also be invaluable for all the other repairs you will be doing on your 22 year old vehicle

Suggestion B) In the meantime, get a ride to O Reilly, take your Alternator & Batteries, and have them LOAD tested. Their computerized tester puts a LOAD on the Alternator and the Battery and then tracks the performance for a few minutes before making the Good/Bad verdict - for FREE...

A & B are the best free advice I can offer you, your mileage may vary.

Craftsman 44851 Flex Head 3/8" Ratchet Link: Craftsman 44815 3/8" Drive Flex Head Quick-Release Teardrop Ratchet | Sears Hometown Stores

 

[Mikealine71]

Thanks guys your advice is very much appreciated. Your absolutely right built in Mexico! I actually have five tool boxes but I need to ad that rachet stated above. Im going in today and bringing both my old and new battery in along with alternator and find out once and for all because your absolutely right I've been spinning my wheels lol. As for how old she is I'll say what I told my soon to be ex husband- she's still got some life in her I'm not trading her in for a newer younger model lol ( like he did yes I'm bitter) I have learned much I changed hub assembly,brakes and rotors driveshaft and radiator. She has almost 300,000 miles and for the most part still going she's a trooper! Wish me luck hopefully get new alternator and be done in an hour.

 

[fast_dave]

 

[koda2000]

OP - By all means get the new alternator tested at O'Reilly's. You might as well bring your battery with you and get it load tested too, but your battery is not the issue if you are only seeing 12V when testing the large wire on the back if the alternator with the engine running. Period.

As your original alternator tested as bad, you know that was the original issue. Assuming the replacement alternator is good you now have an additional issue. Did you disconnect your battery while you installed the new alternator? If not you've probably blown a fuse.

You said that you cleaned/tested the large Mega fuse on the rear of the power distribution box. Exactly how did you test it? You should have continuity across the fuse when testing with your meter. Most meters have a OHM setting to test continuity and make a noise (beep) if continuity is found.

Did you also check the fuses in the fuse panel on the left side of the dash? If you can't figure out which fuse to check, check them all for continuity using you meter. I don't recommend you remove fuses to check them visually as you may not put them back in the same spot you removed them from. Mini fuses have little holes in their back's to stick your VOM probes into for testing. Your not testing fuses for power, just continuity.

If your new alternator tests okay you have a fuse, wiring or connection problem. If this is the case it is very difficult for anyone here to tell you how to proceed to figure out which fuse, wire or connector is the problem. You need to look at a wiring diagram for you specific vehicle and year and test each wire and connection between the PCM and alternator. For this you'll also need a PCM pin-out.

You said you found power on the green/red wire at the alternator. IIRC that's the wire that runs from the BATT light (when the key is ON) to the voltage regulator located on the rear of the alternator. When the engine starts the voltage regulator disconnects this connection internally and the BATT light goes OFF. Does you BATT light go OFF when the engine starts? I've asked you this before, but you didn't answer this specific question. Whenever the BATT is ON, the alternator is not charging. From your description of what's happening it sounds like your BATT light should be remaining ON even when the engine is running. Is it?

Electrical issues on vehicles can be very complicated. A mechanic charges $75-$100 an hour to diagnose an electrical problem, which typically then turns out to require a fix that costs next to nothing to actually repair.

Many people on this forum are very experienced in working on Gen II Explorers and they try their best to help. Some advice you get is good and some is not. If you listen to everyone you may find yourself confused and wasting time, energy and money. We were all newb's once and now have decades of experience. If you plan on doing your own repairs going forward you will have a learning curve to overcome.

 

[Gary Crist]

I had a similar problem once like yours. Old alt tested bad, new did not work tested good!
Fuses tested like yours etc.

Results bad ground on Alt! Added a jumper wire to ground no more charging problems.

 

[Mikealine71]

Thanks everyone, I know a bit about cars and I understand the fundamentals the thing is I live in the country so getting back to store isn't happening soon therefore I was asking if anyone had ideas of what else I could possibly check. But it seems it's all the stuff I already did. So until I can get the parts back to the store I guess I've done everything that can be done. Lesson learned have parts tested when buying them.

 

[Mikealine71]

I'm sorry I forgot to mention that yes the battery light on dash has been continuously on and I tested all fuses etc I have a feeling when I check back with good news it will be the alternator. I plan on bringing my old and new battery to be tested as well.