New u-joints - How tight is "too tight"?

[masospaghetti]

I'm in the process of pulling my transmission to rebuild it and thought I might as well replace the driveshaft u-joints while I had them out. After all, they look original with 254,000 miles, they don't owe me anything at this point.

I installed a Spicer SPL sealed (non-greaseable) joints on the front of the shaft and it feels a bit tight. It moves smoothly but with considerably more effort than the old one. I replaced the rear joint with a Moog greaseable one, and it moves with considerably less effort.

(I intended to use the Spicer SPL joints everywhere, but I ruined one accidentally during install. The local Autozone did not carry Spicer branded joints, so I went with Moog.)

I've taken it apart multiple times, deburred the holes, checked for fallen needle bearings, etc. Can't find anything wrong.

I replaced the front joint on the front driveshaft with a Spicer SPL joint also, and it also feels tight. Both are using the thinnest snap rings provided in the kit.

 

[Gary Crist]

U-joint are always tight one way or the other.
Easy fix...

All you need to do is smack the shaft while the other half of the shaft
is supported by, a vise. All you are doing is getting some end play of the
cross to the caps. Do all 4 caps too.

Check end play after each hit. Don't beat it to death!

 

[masospaghetti]

Gary - Thanks for the reply.

I did what you described (tapped around the joints with a hammer) to try and center the joint. it still feels tight. I'm guessing it just feels this way when it's new because the seals haven't worn in yet? Maybe it will loosen up during use?

I'd hate to roast this thing when I take it out for a drive.

 

[donalds]

Tap it with a soft hammer it will kinda self center
Don't take much
DON'T dent the shaft

 

[fast_dave]

@masospaghetti

I'm posting the following only because there's no mention in your post of how you removed your old u-joints.

Just sayin' - If you used a hydraulic press, ball joint press or vise, there's a chance you might have bent the yokes.

Back in the day when I was sixteen years old I had a summer job at a machine shop in Oakland, and was taught by an old-timer (Earl) to use the hammer & socket method for BOTH removal & installation of U-Joints.

When I exclaimed to Earl that his method might hurt the new u-joint caps he just laughed and mumbled to himself as he walked over to his tool box.

Upon reaching his tool box, he dug through it, and pulled out a sharp draw file. He then put an old bearing cap in his bench vise, and pulled the draw file over it, and it didn't make a scratch.

He turned to me and explained the reason why that occurred was because the bearing caps are hardened steel - so I didn't need to worry about hurting them with a hammer & socket.

Since he was a salty WW2 Liberty Ship Welder, he wound up the lesson by saying that the biggest worry I had was the hammer rebounding off of the socket and knocking some sense into me ;-)

Simple and effective and I used it many times over to this day - hope that helps!

 

[Terkins]

U-joint are always tight one way or the other.
Easy fix...
All you need to do is smack the shaft while the other half of the shaft
is supported by, a vise. All you are doing is getting some end play of the
cross to the caps. Do all 4 caps too.
Check end play after each hit. Don't beat it to death!

This video: ~00:16:36 describes the 'tap' to free up the movement in the new u-joint.

 

[masospaghetti]

@masospaghetti

I'm posting the following only because there's no mention in your post of how you removed your old u-joints.

Just sayin' - If you used a hydraulic press, ball joint press or vise, there's a chance you might have bent the yokes.

That's interesting because I thought it was safer to use a clamp or press. I actually used a hammer and socket because my press wasn't set up in time.

 

[fast_dave]

I actually used a hammer and socket because my press wasn't set up in time.

Excellent - your yokes should be A-OK, as there's no way to tweak them utilizing that method!

Sounds like some fine tuning of the caps is in order and/or it's the effect of the tight fit of the brand new seals.

No doubt - Different brands of U-Joints hold different tolerances.

Spicer is top dog in the Universal Joint dept. Moog is top dog in Steering & Suspension parts.

@Terkins - Oh man is this thread bringing back good memories!
I just viewed 16:36 of your attached video to this thread, Ol' Earl also showed me this old school method of final adjustment with a 2lb ball-peen hammer! Man did that video take me back! I remember being amazed that day because I was in the "book taught" phase of auto repair - Auto Shop 1 in High School, and here was this old salt with over 70 years of experience throwing the book out the window, using the minimum of tools and what seemed to me "caveman techniques" - BUT getting perfect results.