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You could use an ohm setting on your multimeter & verify the coil has low (~2-5 ohms) resistance across it's 2 prongs. And also verify battery voltage to the plugin. And I think you may be able to carefully tap the hub face on these while it's running to see if it's an excessive air gap problem...

Sounds to me like it's acting like a typical DIY refill with a nearly empty system. When you have a nearly empty system, the compressor will cycle on and off rapidly because there isn't enough refrigerant to keep the low side PSI high enough. You need pressure on the low side to avoid starving...

You could try an automotive foaming coil cleaner, too. They come in an aerosol can with a tube. You run the tube up the condensate drain hose and dispense it. Then follow that up with the lysol trick or a more specific commercial product like D Hook suggested.

Yeah. There should be some resistance.

Is there enough room for you to get an ohm reading across the coil wires?

Temperature can change the static pressure easily and even dramatically. It's not a very useful measurement besides finding a very low charge (like the 50psi on an 85 degree day where it should be ~95psi). Low and high side static pressures will surely have equalized. A flow restriction will...

Have you tried running a hot wire directly from the battery to the compressor clutch? You should be able to do that with the engine off.

Remove your cabin filter and replace the cover. Turn on the air and spray some lysol aerosol or other mold/mildew/bacteria cleaner in the cowl air intake while the a/c is on, medium or high fan. It's a quick and easy method that can work if done soon enough. It may need done multiple times...

Try tapping the hub face of your a/c clutch with a long screwdriver while the engine is on and the a/c switch is on (careful..just a quick tap). If the compressor is getting power (it is now, right?) and the air gap on the clutch is too large for the magnet to overcome, it can cause failure to...

Yikes. I wouldn't want to add a leak stopper as there may be plenty of atmospheric air in your system from a leak to react and cause the leak stopper to cure in places you really don't want it to. You could be in a way worse mess then. If I did anything to get me home, I'd probably just put in a...

Do you have rear a/c or front only?

I'm with Boomin. It kinda sounds like your coil is freezing over. This is most likely to happen on lower fan speeds and with max a/c (recirculate mode), and also on somewhat cooler days. If it happens again, try turning it to panel air only. If it starts getting colder after a few minutes...

The trim over the radiator should have a sticker that shows the a/c capacity. It'll show 2 different capacities IIRC.. 1 for front a/c only, and 1 for front/rear a/c. I think I've done an '06 and it was 3.5lbs. So, if I'm right you'll need 5 regular 12oz cans. I'm not sure what your local stores...

Well, at least now that it's empty you can add that UV dye :thumbsup:

Yes they can. There are several different flavors of brazing alloys for aluminum, & it's a real repair for a/c lines. An auto shop would probably change the whole line & charge a zillion.

Close the passenger vents & see how the driver vents feel after a drive. These symptoms are often times an indicator of a low refrigerant charge. The cool air only comes out of vents near the evaporators & the driver's side may cool off after longer trips...say, 30 minutes.

Welcome to the club. Ball joints & bushings--good luck!

The hub & shims will.

I'd just change the one caliper. Use the same piston type as you have now (if they're phenolic, replace with phenolic)

For future reference, I'd like to suggest NOT touching the high pressure line by your compressor while/after it's been running. It can & will burn you. Been there, done that. Probably do it again :D You can pull the hub out without taking the belt off, & even run the engine like that (without...

I think if you test the coil via jumper wires (1 positive, 1 negative to the prongs in the plugin on the a/c clutch) it may be just fine. In which case you should at least get a new hub & shim kit. It may be putting out enough magnetic force to pull the hub in, but the hub is just too worn out...

So it engages when you turn the a/c off & disengages when you turn the a/c on...just leave it turned off :D RockAuto does have the clutch parts but they're sold individually, not under the "clutch" listing. They're the hub, pulley, coil, bearing, shim.. I'm gonna guess something is screwy with...

Compressor looks like it's running fine when engaged in video 2...not sure why you lost a/c unless video 1 is also with the a/c turned on. If that's the case, you probably have too much air gap behind the hub. If it's dragging with the a/c turned off, something must be catching where it...

Hmm, wow. I think you have a leak :D I'm surprised it took even a few minutes to lose vacuum at that rate. There's a couple ways to proceed. If it were me, ideally, I would hook a nitrogen bottle up to one of the service ports & start running air into it. A leak that fast should be audible, but...

Yeah. I'd probably go for 1.5oz of that oil+dye..max of 2oz, & don't add any more after the leak is fixed..be careful not to get it anywhere but in the hose--wipe off any drips with a rag & solvent so you don't get a false positive (I'd wear some nitrile gloves for this so you can just throw...