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I am interested in a pair

I'm gonna have to look into purchasing that kit. I also have lots of body work to do other than the radiator support.

I have to buy the part still. The old one is rusted out. Its not too bad for 27 years. I wasnt sure if anyone has ever replaced one and had any tips.

Well I started some body work and I am going to be replacing my radiator support. Anyone have any tips before I start?

Thanks. I guess I am stuck with aftermarket coil buckets from james duff. All the explorers in junkyards around me are rotted away.

I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find some coil spring buckets for my 91 explorer. I thought at one time I could find them but I am not having any luck. Also I am looking for Fenders and cant find any either.

Well that video was helpful. Found my problem. Got a code 4. So now I gotta get myself a new abs valve. I should have replaced it when I did the lines.

It's all new fluid. Just replaced all the brake lines about 9 months ago.

After having to make a hard stop my RABS and brake light comes on at random and stays on until I shut the explorer off. When I start it again, the lights stay off untill I stop a couple of times. Is there a way to read the codes for the RABS system?

No I just kept bledding the brakes as normal and I got them to stiffen up. They are not as nice as I would like them to be but they are the same as before the lines blew.

I thought it was that, but I had my cousin wiggle the tire and the ball joints do not move, they are still good. The rotor and tire move together and everything else stays put. But if I take the tire off I can not get the rotor to wiggle with my hands.

Yes I do have the auto locking hubs.

I changed both the driver and passenger side wheel bearings and races on my 91 explorer, 4x4. The passenger side, after driving has zero play. The driver side even after torquing has some slight play after putting the wheel on. I can see no play with the wheel off and i grab the rotor. But there...

Well I replaced the master cylinder, bench bled it, then installed it. Bled the brakes and they seem to be almost the same as before they blew, so all is good.

I'll make sure to post what I find when I work on it again. Hopefully this weekend.

I did not bleed the rabs valve. I actually forgot about it. I'll do that and check the master cylinder. Hopefully I can get it fixed with no more problems popping up.

I recently replaced all the lines on my 91 explorer. Bled the system until no air bubbles were coming out of the bleeders. Pedal is nice and hard until I start the explorer up. After that the pedal is spongy and goes all the way to the floor. Brakes work but the pedal is not what it was like...

Thanks for all the advice, I got the drivers side brake hose off plus the line going to the passenger side. Just have to get that brake hose off, which it seems like a pain because of the location.

I have another question, how hard is it replacing old brake hoses that the ends are severely rusted. Any tips?

So I ended up blowing my brake line from the master cylinder to the rear and from the master cylinder to the front. I was just wondering how hard it is to change the brake lines plus hoses, especially the line going to the rear since it runs between the fuel tank and the frame.

I ordered a transgo kit for my a4ld last night, and im curious as to whether the valve body has to be drilled, or if I could leave that part out and do everything else in the kit.

My explorer was running with a rough idle so I changed the iac valve. Well now when cold it runs really rich, but once warmed up it runs perfectly fine. My dad says its cause I changed the iac valve. I didnt think that would cause that since it runs fine when warmed up. Also the torque converter...