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That really depends on the specific model. But if you're referring to the Infinity Kappa 572.5cf (100W RMS) Then you can use any amp, up to: (values should always be used as RMS or continous power) 100Wx4@4ohms (4-channel option) 200Wx2@2ohms (2-channel option)

I wouldn't recommend it. First off your deck doesn't have near the power to push something like that, espically at the standard home audio 6-ohm to 8-ohm range. You could rig up an external amplifier to handle it, but it will require a power system upgrade (battery(s) in this case) for extended...

I've used them both.. They are both good subs... Personally I prefer the JL over the Infinity. It's a bit warmer sound and, from my tests, slightly better in both SQ and SPL... And $200 is a bit much for one also, you should be able to find one for $150-$175 or even cheaper... And sensativity...

You could if there's nothing inbetween the two.. If you track the length of the wire and it just takes the 'long way' to the battery, you could probably shorten that up.. But if it connects to another device, it would still need connected. Alot of cars are different and I havn't really found...

Take the plastic off the engine and see where she goes.. It's got to go somewhere. Usually from the alternator to a voltage regulator and to the battery. Some alternator's have built in regulators so it just goes to the battery. (in some round about way.) but basically, track down the path of...

In an enclosed vehicle, speaker placement can very much affect which method would be best for the situation. The problem is like this. If you have a box in the trunk of a car, pointed up to the rear deck into the cabin. You're bass responce is going to be horrible. Why? Because you get a...

I don't think 2 farad is overkill, I use 1 farad per 500W RMS as wired. If he's got 750W just for the subs (assuming that was the continous power rating. I always post power in continous(RMS) values as that's what matters most.) then that amp alone would need 1.5 farads. So the extra .5 farads...

I have a 91' 4x4 (4L), manual tranny that I'm looking to do a full conversion to. First I'd like to get the SAS and Spring over out of the way but then I want to follow it up with a powertrain swap. (perhaps a 5.0.. but I've been even looking into potential diesel options...). My rig is pretty...

Why do we NEED anything? We don't.. but the point is that with a 42V (Not 48V) system, alot of the more common 'necessities' of automobiles today become alot more reliable, cheaper to impliment, capable than on a 12V system. Think of head units that can put out 100W RMS of real power per channel...

I don't know anyone who actually makes a 30x12.5... hmm... But the lowest I'd go, rim/tire wise, for 12.5" width is a 31x12.5 on a 15x8. I run that on my TJ and it's just fine. I would not advise going any lower or with a narrower wheel though. But a 15x8 or 15x10 would be perfect for the 31...

SAS - Solid Axle Setup? (guessin) Cool! That's sweet! Thanks for the heads up...

Hello fellow members! :bounce: I'm new to this forum and have currently a 91' Ford Explorer with a V6, 5-speed, 4x4 and some mild modifications. I'm getting ready to go extreme. My history includes exclusive custom electronics experience building vehicles that compete in IASCA...

Hello everyone. 91' Explorer V6, 5-speed, 4x4 that I'd like to ditch the IFS on. I'm new to the forum's here and havn't done a search yet so if it is a re-occuring post, please forgive me. What is involved with this: What axle should I look for? (TJ/YJ D30?) Is it the right width...