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Offroad Projects

Big projects... Lifts, Swaps, etc... IMPORTANT As the subject use your name, or the name of your truck, and the name of the project. Such as Superlift 5.5" installation, Dana 44 conversion, etc.

Solid Axle Swap Registry

If you have completed a solid axle swap on your Explorer and would like to share the results with others this is the place to do it:D This isn't the place to talk about a work in progress, rather a place for the FINAL results, specs, instructions etc
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4,136
Threads
109
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4,136

Shocks, Suspensions, Lift Kits

Ford Explorer and Ranger chassis related posts. Get help choosing the right shock absorber and aftermarket suspension for your Explorer or Ranger based vehicle.
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9,274
Messages
72,579
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9,274
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72,579

Offroad Drivelines

Ford Explorer and Ranger Transmissions, Transfer Cases, Driveshafts and Axles.
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14,262
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1,155
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14,262

Offroad Fabrication - Bumpers, Sliders, Cages etc.

For the Ford Explorer and Ranger entusiasts who like to build their own rock sliders, bumpers, rollcages etc.
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678
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12,287
Threads
678
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12,287

Offroad Accessories

All of the extra goodies we need. Winches, recovery gear, on board air etc...
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4,458
Threads
334
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4,458
So you want to do a SAS on your Explorer/Ranger/BII? Dont really know were to start? To much info to sort through? We can help. :) This thread is the be all- end all of Explorer, Ranger, and BII solid axle swap tech info. Solid front axle data thread by FROADER Bolt in D44 swap The easiest SAS imaginable, practically bolt in by Dannyboy
So you want to do a V8 swap in your Explorer, Ranger, or Bronco II? Well here is a compilation of V8 swap threads- old general tech thread by Gofast 5 liter and 4R70W into a 1st gen. by seth2472006 5 liter and 4R70W into an 03 Ranger by rwenzing 5 liter and T5 into a 1st gen. by Chief34 4 liter M5OD to A4LD to 5 liter 4R70W by 410 Fortune 5.0L/4R70W 2WD into a 1st Gen (WITH a 2nd Gen Dash Swap) Spdrce
Starting a project? Well here is the forum for it! As a reminder here is what this forum is all about... Stolen from the description- This forum is for following along with big projects... Lifts, Swaps, etc... IMPORTANT As the subject use your name, or the name of your truck, and the name of the project. Such as Superlift 5.5" installation, Dana 44 conversion, etc. So stick to these rules and this forum will be a WONDERFULL resource for following along on projects. Any posts put in here that don't follow these rules will be moved or deleted or renamed. Also, please please please provide pics with your project(s). By now everyone has some sort of digi-cam and a free space to host pics if you are not an elite member. If you are simply asking a question, then obviously you dont need to post pics of your question. :p:
I haven't posted much here since I sold my 1993 Mazda Navajo around 2010 or 2011. It was 10 years in the making and finally to a solid, reliable state. I had some other priorities and decided to sell it and get something more versatile. I will include some pictures below of its developing states and final state when I sold it below. In the end, it had 37" MTRs, Arb front, detroit rear, 4.56 gears, D and D doubler and I built all the armor and the Dana 44 front Solid Axle Swap. James duff 3.5" VR coil lift, 235" defender tires and a home made heavy ugly bumper (around 2000 when I bought it) : 2001 with 33x10.50s and James duff 4.5" lift with extended radius arms, manual hubs and new auto tranny: Here it is just after the SAS with 34s and a swapped in manual tcase and tranny: Winching out of Mikeys hot tub circa 2002 or so Stuck on a tree just after 37s 37s, winch bumper rebuild etc Final State Explorerforum moab trip 2010 Last Poser Shots I hear it still gets around Colorado and Utah and I have had buddies call me with airings from time to time. I have had a few rangers and one explorer since I sold my explorer. Here are some pics of those: Beat up 1994 Ranger 2.4l ($250) Traded 1993 Ranger 4.0l and an abused auto tranny 1991 Manual Tcase and Tranny Explorer Sport We have also had a ton of cool Jeeps. Here are a couple of pics, along with our current Jeep which we are hanging on to: 2005 unlimited Rubicon Sahara 5.7 L Hemi 2005 unlimited Rubicon 35s and 4" lift Our Current 2005 Unlimited Rubicon 4" Lift 315 Kevlars It does great grocery getter, family truckster, and occasional wekend wheeler, but I need a truck and I miss my exploder, so I decided to build a Ranger. However, I want to build it a little different this time. I have always wanted to build a 1989-1992 ranger, so I spent a considerable amount of time looking for a low mile one with the right engine, tranny and tcase in good shape. 4.0l, m5od and 1354M stock. My explorer ended up with this combo, but started out as an auto tranny and tcase. This made for a ton of modifications and headaches with my explorer. Rangers can be had in many other undesirable configurations because they were available with 3 different v6s in 1989-92 and a 4cylinder. It proved to be a difficult task. Finally in the fall of 2012 I picked this one up. A 1991 4.0l manual tranny and transfer case 4x4 extended cab "mountain States Edition. It had 130k on it and ran great. The paint was toast, it had a rusty bed and (my biggest complaint) it had no factory air. I drove it for a year until I was ready to have it painted. I fixed a bunch on it- thermostat, muffler, wheel bearings, brakes, had a new headliner installed, etc. When I got a quote for the paint (one solid color and fix the dings) it was 2k. So then I started thinking I better look for a different ranger to build! I settled on this one. It too is a 1991, it has air (huge plus after not having it in my other truck all summer), manual case and tranny and everything else and a 4.0. The body is really straight no rust and the interior is super nice. The odo read 83k and I believed it. Since then I tracked down the original and only owner to find it has 183 k on it and they were all hwy miles. The only complaints I have is I wish it had the other mirrors and pop out extended cab windows. I can deal with those, though. This truck has been taken care of. First order of business was a tune up, brakes and leaky valve cover gaskets. The build plan is pretty simple: build it similar to how my explorer ended up, with out all the half builds in between. It took me a lot of work and money to get my explorer to preform well off-road and on the street and be reliable. On this one I want to skip all the poor performing, cheapskate half steps I took with the explorer. My goal is to end up with a reliable, daily drive able, off-road capable ranger that will make a great driver, great work truck and great expo vehicle. I like the idea of a truck over a explorer sport because I need to haul dirt bikes and Sheetrock and plywood and all kinds of stuff all the time so I always needed a pickup when I had the explorer even though I wanted to drive the explorer all the time. Hopefully this will do both functions well. So far, I have installed: A blue tooth pioneer stereo (replacing the stock tape deck) A optima yellow top A Black grill and headlight bezels along with new headlights: The only body work it needs is the topper it had on it was put on with a loose and poorly placed clamp that rubbed a hole in the bed cap. I will weld it up and hopefully add a LineX bedliner over the top I purchased a Dana 44 out of a 76 f150 with no guts or outers for a $50 bill. I still have my spare warn premium hubs off my ex, and I plan to build this one stout before I put it in and leave it full width but move the c bushings in about 2" per side. I will likely then run stock style f150 wheels with stock backspacing and 35s or 37s as skinny as I can find. It will get a full rebuild and at least 4.88s, maybe 5.13s. I am not decided on radius arms yet. I suppose extended ones are on the bill instead of the stock wristed ones I had before, but I haven't sorted that out yet. The wrist traveled fine but it clunked and made a racket and it was also a pain to get out and pull the pin when it was time to wheel. Extended arms won't perform quite as well on the street as the stock length ones did with the pin in, but longer arms should stream line things. For the rear I will rebuild a full width late model 31 spline 8.8 put of a bronco or f150 and install explorer disk brakes. I will likely need to have the axle flanges turned down and drill the rotors for the new bolt pattern. I will extend the wheel base around 3" by moving the front axle forward and leave the rear axle centered in the wheel well. I plan to leave the bed size stock as I need the truck to haul stuff all the time. I will build bumpers and sliders before I beat it up this time. Stay Tuned, I am picking up the front axle tomorrow.
I am consolidating my build thread and the sas build into one thread so below is a link to my original build thread in case anyone has too much time on their hands and wants to see how this whole ordeal started. notajeep_wv build thread the next step.. SAS parts update 2/18 Its time for a SAS, time to take making Jeeps look bad to the next level lol Lets keeps track of how much this is costing me so I can look back at it later and think of all the other things I could have done with the money. what ended up on the truck.. 74 EB D44 with track bar, steering, 2 sets of RAs - $200 F150 knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers - $35 MileMarker premium hubs - $80 4.89 G2 gear set - $175 4.88 G2 gear set - $200 D44 install kit - $80 5.5 WH coils - $160 Duff SAS trac bar bracket - $150 Duff Coil seats - $75 D44 TruTrac - $425 7* bushing kit - $50 Moog HD ball joints - $120 axle joints - $40 Duff steering - $350 Cooper 35x12.50 STTs - $840 custom built trac bar - $80 F250 shock towers - $30 eh, its a start
Alright so some of you know Ive been painting my truck the last week, and I was going to wait to show it off at T-haven...But I know you all can't wait and I'm to proud of my hard work:D So here are some pictures I took with my cell phone. Still have more to do, need to remount the front bumper, wetsand the whole truck and put on the JP logos when they get here.. The entire paint job was done using a $10 air sprayer from Harbor Freight and Rustoleum paint. The green I actually custom made, as no color was available like that.;) Here is the original...in case you forgot:p: (dead link)
Some of you may know, and some may have suspected, but I'm starting a new project and it starts with a truck you all will recognize. I picked up R.J.'s Navajo today. She is a little tired and was facing being parted out, but now will start a new chapter, a very different chapter. I give you Plan B. (dead links) So let's start off as to why "Plan B"? Well, it has multiple meanings. It starts off as I really wanted a early Bronco. I first learned to drive on Zukmans '71 Bronco he had years ago. But myself owning a early Bronco was not going to happen. There just way to ridiculous priced these days.:eek: So this is My Plan B. JP is not going anywhere, I really just wanted to to do another build and JP is...well, JP!. It works, but it has a following and presence that really can't be changed....it's almost become, dare I say, an Icon of this forum. :jp: So this is My Plan B The Navajo was on it's death bed. R.J. himself had already give it a time of death... :dead: So this is it's Plan B.....or maybe for it C...But for my plan, we'll say B :D So what does the Plan B build look like? You'll have to watch and find out. But I'll give you some teasers.. Starting Base : 1991 Mazda Navajo JX 4x4 SOHC - donor: 2000 Explorer Sport 4x2 103k 5R55E - donor: 2008 Ranger FX4 45k 1354 manual - still looking for :sawzall: to smell the fresh air;) Super Duty Axles - '99 F350 4x4 PSD 40's - settling for 37's now Grabber Blue I think that should be enough to entice you all for now... This is My Plan B
As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer. Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.
Got it done yesterday, few questions please: - How much will 4.10's and TM Headers improve my MPG? I am currently running 3.73's. - I would like to run some wheel spacers, but I won't if it is going to add any additional stress to the truck. Thoughts on this? I am getting some rubbing in the front and I think if my front tires stuck out a bit more that it would clear completely.
I'm almost ready to hit the trails with my 99 5.0 D60/Sterling 10.5/Atlas 4.3 explorer on 40" TSL. The one item I need to address is belly protection for the tcase & auto. Does anyone have any pictures ideas of what has worked well?
This is a very handy tool for adjusting the springs on coil over shocks. The head locks in three positions to make it easier to insert the wrench in tight spots. www.coilclaw.com Various sizes are available on their website.
96-01 V8 AWD to 4WD By Darren Stadstad (stadx2) Have you ever wondered why Ford put an AWD transfer case in the Explorer with the V8 option? I myself have heard many reasons. Frankly, I don’t really care what they are, I just don’t like the AWD; aside from having no low range, it robs power and reduces gas mileage. Others like myself had pondered the feasibility of a conversion to a part-time transfer case with low range. Well, I’ve put the pondering to rest, because I’ve done it. First of all, there are two ways to do this swap. One is to install an Atlas II t-case, which from what I was told can be configured to bolt right up. This is the easiest way, but the most expensive. This t-case will run you around $2500, but it’s bulletproof and has an extremely low range, which is great for rock crawling. Unfortunately, this also requires cutting a slot in your floor for the t-case shift levers. I was not willing to do that to my Explorer. I wanted something more ”factory-ish”, which brings me to the second way, swapping in a Borg-Warner 1350,1354, or a 4405 t-case. This way costs less, but the swap is more involved. These Borg-Warner t-cases have a 25 spline input socket and a 5-bolt pattern that bolts the t-case to the transmission 4WD adapter. The transmission in the V8 model Explorer (4R70W) has a 31 spline count output shaft and a 6-bolt pattern. To correct this problem, you need to use the “Advanced Adapters” 50-8405 adapter to mate the transmission and new t-case together. This requires pulling out the transmission to swap out this output shaft with the one supplied with Advanced Adapter’s kit (25 Spline) and bolting on the new adapter housing on the end of the transmission so you have a 5-bolt pattern. If you choose to go with an electric shift t-case or Control-Trac t-case, there is additional wiring to do as well. To keep this swap “factory-ish”, I choose the Borg-Warner 4405 Control-Trac Electronic Transfer-Case, since this is what the V6 model Explorer uses. The Grand total for this swap including the transmission labor for swapping the output shaft was approximately $1437. I’ll take you though step-by-step what I had to go through to make this swap work. Feasibility…………… Because I was using a Control-Trac t-case, I needed the electronics to control it. Well, it happens that in at least the ‘98 model year truck, the wiring is already in place within the interior of the truck! The only wiring that is missing is a foot-long section of harness that actually connects to the t-case, the neutral input lead to the GEM from the transmission in the engine compartment, and a power lead from the maxi-fuse box under the hood. All the electronics that control the t-case simply plug right in to the existing harness plugs. VERY FEASIBLE INDEED! Now I needed to gather the parts necessary to make this swap work. The Parts………………. Ray Laboto supplied me with the t-case he had in his ‘97 Explorer. For model year Explorers 1997-2001 you should be able to use any of the Control-Trac t-cases from 97-01. They all have the same plug harness and operate the same. Borg-Warner 4405 Control-Trac Transfer-Case. Next, you need the adapter from Advanced Adapters. Again, the model number is 50-8405. Side note…Advanced Adapters does make an adapter that will bolt up to these Borg-Warner t-cases that doesn’t require you to swap the output shaft in the transmission. Unfortunately, it adds too much length to the entire driveline (4inches), which would push your t-case right into the front of the gas tank. Advanced Adapter’s 50-8405 and 25 spline output shaft After checking out what Ford wanted for new dash components and electronics, I promptly went to the salvage yard to find the parts. Luckily I found all the parts I needed on one Explorer. Very Cool! Radio bezel with 4WD switch Wire harness that connects to t-case Torque-on-demand relay Transfer case shift relay Generic Electronic Module (GEM) I found out well into this swap that a needed the transmission-to-crossmember isolator off the V6 Explorer as well (I’ll explain later). I just ordered that from Ford Parts Network online. Transmission-to-crossmember isolator The Install……………… The first step in my swap was installing the electronics. The first item I installed was the wire harness section that went from under the seat, through the floor, and to the transfer-case. First you’ll need to take out the drivers seat so you can get underneath the carpet to access the plug. This is the electrical plug you need to access. In the Ford electrical book, this plug is called C200. After finding connector C200, find the rubber floor grommet just to the right of the connector and remove. Now run the transfer-case wire harness through the floor and plug into the harness C200. This is what the wire harness should look like under the truck. It’s the dirty light blue one on the right. The next item to install is the Torque-on-Demand relay, which is located behind the passenger side air-bag. IMPORTANT! Whenever handling air-bags remove the negative cable from your battery to avoid any chance of air-bag deployment! Once the air bag is out of the way, to the left you will see a connector like this, into which you plug your Torque-on-Demand relay. The Torque-on-Demand relay plugged in. There is a small rivet on the relay on one side and a nut on the other that hooks and bolts onto behind a metal plate to the left of the air-bag like this. The next items to install are the Transfer-Case Shift Relay and the replacement Generic Electronic Module. They are both located behind the radio bezel. (I know this looks like a huge mess of wires, but with my Explorer, I’ve done quite a bit of audio work to it, which makes this look really scary! If your Explorer is stock in the audio department, it will be pretty clean back there.) The Transfer-Case Shift Relay plug harness is gray; it’s located deeper down forward and to the left of the radio and has a plastic plug capping it off. After removing the plug cap, plug in the Transfer-Case Shift Relay. The next item to install is the replacement Generic Electronic Module (GEM). The V8 AWD Explorer came with a different GEM then the V6 4WD. Ford must have decided to use different GEMs because the AWD didn’t need the Control-Trac circuitry. In ‘98, Ford made three different GEMs for the Explorer, but only one of them is used with the 4WD V6 Explorer, making the choice obvious. If this isn’t obvious to you, you need the GEM from a V6 4WD Explorer because is has the Control-Trac transfer-case. This GEM module is what handles the control aspect of the Control-Trac shifting. It also controls various other electrical items in the truck including windshield wipers, interior/exterior lighting, suspension ride control, defrosters, etc. Knowing this, it is very important to get a GEM from the SAME YEAR Explorer you are doing the swap on, as many electrical items and their values have changed over the years. Trust me, I learned the hard way! You will need to check with your Ford dealer parts department to find out what GEM you will need. The GEM is directly to the left of the radio. Remove the two bottom screws and the four large electrical plugs on it, then lift up and to the right to remove. Now with the new GEM and t-case shift relay in place, put the dash back together using the new radio bezel with the 4WD controls on it. DUH! The electrical plug for the 4WD switch was the one that was plugged onto the back of your original bezel into a “dummy” plug. That plug goes into your “real” 4WD switch. Lastly, you need to get power to the transfer case shift relay circuitry and the neutral input from the transmission to the GEM. Ford used a different wiring harness in the engine compartment between its V6 and V8 models. Because of that, the power wire that feeds the shift circuitry and the neutral input lead that feeds the GEM dead end at the plug harness in the firewall. To keep this as “factoryish” as I could, I decided to add the appropriate pins to the engine side of the plug harnesses and install the maxi-fuse in the designated spot in the fuse box instead of running new wires and tapping into the harness. The plug harnesses are called C147 (shift power lead) and C148 (neutral lead) and are located to the right on the power brake booster in the engine compartment on the firewall. I got some plug pins that go in to the C147 and C148 at the Ford dealership. They didn’t have any part numbers for these pins but they look like this. You need to get one large pin and one small pin. These get added to your existing plug harnesses. On C147 for the power to the transfer-case shift relay, you need to find pin #5 (its written on the plastic) and push the plastic filler out. Now that you have a hole punched through, remove the white pin retainer clip on the inside of the plug, with a needlenose pliers. Now take the large plug pin and insert it in through the back of the plug and reinstall the pin retainer clip. Plug C147 should look like this when finished. Now move on to plug C148. This pin is for the neutral lead. Find pin #26 and follow the same procedure you did with C147, except use the small plug pin. Now that you have these connectors finished, you need to get fused power to the C147 lead and get the C148 lead connected into the transmission. Again, for C147 I wanted to keep it “factoryish”. So I added a “Maxi” type fuse to slot #6 in the under hood Maxi-fuse box. Of course, this happens to be where the fuse is supposed to be for the t-case shifting power. If you look into the fuse slot you will notice that the metal connections the fuse needs are not there, so you need to get some more funny-looking connectors from your Ford dealership. Take the bottom of the maxi-fuse box off to insert these plugs. You will need to pry up the metal power distribution grid to access the appropriate fuse slots. These are the slots you need to insert the fuse connectors. With the grid pried up, insert both fuse plug inserts into the corresponding slots. When inserting the fuse plug connector that goes under the power grid, just tape off the end of the wire with electrical tape and bend it over towards the other fuse plug to keep it out of the way of the power grid forks. The metal power grid has a fork blade that will push up and make a good contact with the fuse connector once you push the grid back into place. This is what it will look like from on top with both fuse connectors in their appropriate spots. Don’t forget to add a 20 amp maxi fuse! The other lead (the one not touching the power grid) from the fuse insert needs to get tied in to the C147 plug pin connector lead. You will need about 3 feet of 12 or 16-gauge wire to make the connection. Now move on to the neutral lead connection. Under the hood, look for a large electrical connector located on the firewall right above the engine’s air plenum. On the left side of this plug, look for a red wire with a white stripe. This wire goes into pin#9 (be aware that there is more than one wire this color in this plug harness, so LOOK AT PIN #s!). This is the neutral ground lead that comes from the transmission. This is the closest spot to access this wire. Before soldering, check and make sure you have the right wire with your multi-meter. Place the transmission in neutral, put one of the multi-meter’s probes on a good ground the other on the wire, then check for continuity. The meter should beep with the transmission in neutral. You need to strip back its insulation and solder on an extension wire from here to go to the C148 pin plug lead. That’s it for the electrical portion of the swap. As I said before, you will need to pull out your transmission to have the new output shaft installed. Taking out transfer-cases and transmissions has been done before, so I’ll skip over those procedures. After removing your transmission, take it to a transmission shop and have them install the new output shaft. I got it done for $150. I bought a 4R70W shop manual so I could attempt to do this install myself, but was scared off by seeing all the exotic tools that are needed to disassemble/reassemble this transmission. Not to mention all the little parts. Here’s my transmission before the new output shaft was installed with the OEM 6-bolt adapter (bottom) and the new 5-bolt AA adapter (top). As you can tell, the AA adapter is about an inch shorter than the stock one. Because of this, you need to get your rear drive shaft lengthened one inch, and the front drive shaft shortened one inch. I got away without doing any modifications to the front drive shaft because I had a different shaft made for the front when I installed the suspension lift, so the slip yoke had plenty of travel in either direction. If your drive shaft is stock, you will more than likely need to have it shortened. Here is the AWD transfer-case (left) next to the Control-Trac transfer-case (right). You can see, size-wise, they are not that different. After getting the transmission with the new output shaft back from the shop, but before you bolt on the t-case with the 4WD adapter, you will need to mill down some of the aluminum that makes up the oil catcher inside the AA adapter to get the transfer case to bolt up cleanly. I was surprised I had to do this. My guess is that since this adapter is technically made for the B/W 1350/1354, there must be a slight difference in the castings between the Borg/Warner 1350/1354 and the Borg/Warner 4405 Control-Trac. Not a big deal though. This part is a kind of a big deal. I was a little disappointed to read in one of the inserts with the directions for the AA Adapter that if you are doing this swap on a 1988 or newer AODE (4R70W) you will need to shave about a ¼-inch off the end of the input spline socket on the transfer-case. So much for just bolting it on! The reason this socket spline needs to be trimmed down is because at its current length, when the transmission’s output shaft is inserted in the t-case spline socket, the t-case’s socket will bottom out on the transmission’s output shaft where it begins to taper to a larger diameter, causing driveline bearing preload. I used my pneumatic cut-off wheel and carefully and evenly cut down the ¼-inch that was needed. This is what it looks like all together with the new adapter and t-case. Reinstall your transmission with the t-case off but leave the AA adapter on the transmission. Once the transmission is reinstalled, install the transfer-case BEFORE installing the transmission crossmember. If you install the crossmember and isolator first, you won’t be able to get the bottom two bolts screwed into the transfer case because the transmission isolator will get in the way. Two more things to modify, the V6 edition transmission crossmember isolator and the transmission crossmember. The reason for using the V6 isolator is because it is taller than the V8 isolator and since the AA adaptor was designed to be used with a taller crossmember isolator it works perfectly. The transmission crossmember isolator needs to have three notches cut into it to avoid some of the bolt heads it mounts close to. Here you can see the height difference between the two isolators. V8 (left) V6 (right) Here are the modifications I made to the isolator. With the t-case bolted in and torqued down, you can now bolt on the transmission crossmember isolator. Once the isolator is in, line up the crossmember with the studs on the isolator. I needed to extend the slots forward an inch on my crossmember to get the isolator studs to pass through it. Now with the transmission crossmember isolator studs passing through the crossmember, finish bolting up the crossmember to the frame. Reinstall your front and rear driveshafts and check your clearances. Take the plug harness that is dangling by your new Control-Trac t-case and plug it into the t-case’s wiring harness. Now go out for a test drive and check to make sure everything is working properly and not making any funny noises. Helpful Hint: To shift into low range you must be in neutral and have the brake applied, then wait for your 4WD Low dash light to come on. That’s it! Happy Wheeling! Parts & Costs Overview……….. -Borg/Warner 4405 Transfer Case(Used) $350 w/shipping -Advanced Adapters 50-8405 AODE(4R70W) to B/W 1350/54 4WD Transfer Case Adapter with 25 spline output shaft $500 -Radio Bezel with 4WD switch, Torque-on-Demand Relay, and Transfer Case Shift Relay (from salvage) $50 -Generic Electronic Module (GEM) for Control-Trac (from salvage) $50 -C200 to Transfer Case wire harness (from salvage) $20 -Plug harness pin inserts (no part #s) $0 -Fuse connector inserts (no part #s) $0 -20 Amp Maxi-Fuse $2 -Transmission Crossmember Isolator (part#F87Z-6068-KA) $25 -Labor for Transmission Output Shaft Install $150 -Transmission Jack Rental $25 -Transmission-to-4WD Adapter Gasket $10 -4WD Adapter-to-Transfer Case Gasket $20 -Transmission Fluid (synthetic) $35 -Rear Drive Shaft Lengthening $125 -Front Drive Shaft Shortening $75 (quote) Grand Total $1437
Brian1's Twin Trail Build 1991 Ford Explorer 4-Door XL 5-Speed Manual 4x4 Project Background and Goals: I bought this Explorer at a Police auction in August of 2015. I really didn't know what I was going to do with it when I bought it but I couldn't pass up the great deal I got. I stored it away for a bit while deciding to part it out, build it up or just flip it. In the end I decided to build it into a cheap trail truck and use it to R&D some new ideas I had on how to build an Explorer and develop some new parts. The goal of the build was to do it cheaply while keeping it low, lightweight, and simple. Another goal was to completely transform the Explorer into a trail machine and debut it at the 20th anniversary forum run in Moab (May 2016) while keeping the entire build a secret. The build has already been completed and made its successful debut in Moab. I will be adding to this thread as time permits of what I did. Table of Contents - Modifications to be filled in as the thread progresses for quick access 1" Body Lift Rear 8.8 Swap and Build Rear F150 Hybrid Leaf Springs Front Daystar 2" Coil Spacer & F250 Shock Tower Conversion Corbeau Seats Pt1 Corbeau Seats Pt2 Rear Shock Bar Pin Eliminators Dana 35 TTB Beam Boxing Hybrid Dana 35 Beams with Dana 44 Outer Conversion Extended Radius Arms Dana 35 Diff Build with LockRight Locker Power Steering Cooler Cutting the Rocker Panels Off Rear Bumper Build Front Fender Cutting Rock Sliders Pt1 Rock sliders Pt2 Front Winch Bumper Build Extended Breathers and Fuel Pump Access Panel Rear Fender Cutting Cage Building Fabricated Door Panels/Skins Doubler Install
what do you guys think about my 1990 bronco 2 mountain states edition? I plan on making it into a car i can daily and go wheeling in but it need lots of TLC first. Btw i got it for only $250
SO I guess the time has came early for my 5.3L LS swap on The Black Pearl!! LET THE HATE BEGIN!!! I have a buddy that is a drag-racer but started working for a shitty speed shop in the area and now he is burnt out from engines and all that; He is getting into guns and i have built a few ARs. We did some talking the other weekend and we figured that one of my ARs is worth about the same as his 400-450 horse Gen3 LM7 (706 heads, Gen4 internals. Titanium valve springs, retainers and guides) Currently the piston rings are gaped and it has a cam setup for spray but he just hadn't gotten around to get nitro setup in the car yet. This is in a late 80s Monte Carlo BTW. This are some pictures i loaded on my SAS build thread so i will post them up here to keep it all in one place. This is just a general picture i found on google but thats pretty much the setup i am getting. I have some 2010 Camaro exhaust manifolds that will be used (IF they fit!) that he threw in as well. I went to the wrecking yard last weekend and picked up a 2000 tahoe fuseblock, harness, MAF and PCM for $40.65 out the door. Started pulling it apart and removing ALL un-needed circuits, Factory fuse block, A/C, EVAP, Trans and a few other circuits. i also added a few circuits such as a secondary ground circuit for the Taurus 2-speed fan i have installed. The fans are controlled by the PCM, the PCM sends ground to the fan relays to turn them on/off at set temps (that will be programmed into the PCM when it gets tuned). This is what we have left: To clean things up in the engine bay i am going to use a Corvette style fuel system. There is no fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, it in in-line on the frame rail. It also uses a return-less system incorporated into the fuel filter, with the regulator. 450 is overkill but this pump is a direct for to the explorer in-tank fuel pump according to Walbro. This fuel filter will replace the factory Explorer fuel filter. It is a Corvette fuel filter with a built in fuel pressure regulator. With a return line back to the tank for unused fuel. These engines require 60PSI fuel pressure and the 1gen explorers are only pushing around 30-40 PSI.
Well now that Im Elite i figured Id start a thread to document my SAS build...
I picked up my transfer case last night. Two t cases were included in the deal, one is strictly for parts. The t case I will be using in my 96 5.0L AWD explorer is a 2001 F-150 BW 4406 manual shift :) this makes me very happy. I will no longer have full time AWD, instead I will have 2wd, 4hi and 4 low, increased RWHP, better MPG, and less tire wear. Also a more capable truck off road for light wheeling (getting to the fishing spot, colorado winters, etc) I have ALOT of research to do before I get started collecting more parts and modifying the t case so it can be installed...I am just beggining this conversion. Once I get a better picture of everything that is needed I can post more. I know I need to get the manual shifter linkage and driveshafts/driveshaft parts at the very least. I will have to figure out how to make a speed sensor talk to my 96 computer from this case, I will have to make this sucker fit under my truck, and I will have to modify some driveshafts to work or the T case itself before I can bolt it in. For now the pictures: Mid 80-90's full size bronco T case (possibly use the driveshaft yokes, sensors, tailhousing, etc we will see): The FSB t case tag: And now the new baby, 2001 BW 4406 manual shift: Oh my 4406 T case has 7 miles on it hahahaha and I bought it for likely less then Ford would pay BW for this case!! Shhhhh....dont tell anyone. Anyone want to buy a 96 AWD t case, work perfect, approx 85K miles.
Hello everybody! It's time to start the SAS on my Explorer. It will be an awesome project and the first project of this type and size that I have ever undertaken. Up to this point the sliders where the hardest thing that I have made myself. I am open to any suggestions and or insights from anyone as the project gets underway. I have bought every last part for the build minus the hard brake lines (axles, and from master to the frame) and the flexible lines that go down to the axles. Those are all easy to make so I am not worried about it for now until I get the axles put together and can see what i want to do with those. Now for a list of things I will be doing with the project: 1995 F-150 8.8 - I bought this used rear axle that I will strip, lock with a Detroit, convert to Explorer Disc brakes, and mount to the truck. Factory rear sway bar will be used. I will be doing a spring over conversion and will also be remaking the rear V8 anti axle wrap bars to help the leaf springs out with the leverage and TQ the V8 37's and 5.13's will put on them. 1976 F-150 HP Dana 44 - I bought this used axle and will be stripping it of the Ford factory wedges, trussing, and building custom glorified radius arms. Like DB_1 runs and like Rubicon Expresses makes. Front will also have a Detroit Truetrac LSD in it as well. This Dana 44 has 1/2" thick axle tubes. Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs - I will be building shock hoops for these coil-overs, bracing them, and tying them together across the top of the engine with removable double lock tube clamps. 1995 F-150 Steering box - This will be mounted inside the frame rail and used with the factory PS pump and will build a custom steering link from the box to the column. I picked this 1 to keep it ALL Ford and 2 because they are fairly cheap and easy and can be tapped for hydro assist at some point if I want or need it. In order to fit this steering gear I also have to remote mount my oil filter so that it has room. I will be getting rid of the factory oil cooler and have a Trans Dapt remote filter relocation kit. Project Parts Section: -37X13.50 R17 Interco M-16's -Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs with Eibach Springs. -Detroit Locker for the 8.8 -Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 44 -Yukon 5.13 gears for both front and rear. -Both axles will receive ALL new bearings races and seals u-joints etc. -All wheel studs front and rear and spindle studs have been replaced for safety reasons. To cheap not to. -Already had EBC brakes on it so those pads on rear will be reused and new EBC 7000 series pads for the front have been purchased. -New front rotors wheel bearings and new Spicer ball joints, going to reuse the warn locking hubs as they work great and are in good order and easily changed later if i wanted. -1978 Ford T-Bird calipers have been bought in place of the factory F-150 ones. They are 17% bigger in piston size so will give me a little more brake up front to help stop those 37's. -Trans Dapt Oil filter relocation Kit and addition mount to hook to the block at a 90*. -Currie Johnny Joints and Rubicon Express Clevite bushings for the all the link ends. -GM 1 ton tre's for the steering with a high angle tre at the pitman arm. -Front axle truss. (wasn't impressed with it at all so will be making some changes) -Extending current Expedition rear drive shaft and will have a custom double cardon one made for the front. -Metal used: 2"X.250 wall DOM for lower links, 1 1/2"X.250 wall DOM used for upper links, 1 1/2"X.375 wall DOM used for trac bar, and ALL tabs and brackets will be made out of 1/4" Flat plate by me. -Double lock tube clamps for the shock hoop cross brace that uses 2 3/8" bolts on each. These are so It can be removed. -All Grade 8 hardware will be used. -All flexible brake lines will be braided stainless steel Teflon lined hoses. I like to follow others projects and often find myself wanting more pictures so bare with me there will be A LOT of pictures of the build. I hope you enjoy lots of pictures as much as I do. First some pictures of what the truck was! Then onto some parts pictures. Build will start shortly. 1998 XLT Explorer. 5.0L with the 4R70W trans. I have the 4406 T-Case. 3.73 gears with rear LSD. Goodyear 31's. Rock sliders and front skid plate. Links to those builds are in my signature. And here is some video links! :) There are a few videos of me wheeling in CO with nssj2!
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