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If you have completed a solid axle swap on your Explorer and would like to share the results with others this is the place to do it:D This isn't the place to talk about a work in progress, rather a place for the FINAL results, specs, instructions etc
I'm going to be doing a project over the holidays to convert from the stock OEM style struts in the front of my 2008 4x4 Explorer to Fox coilover shocks.
The goal is to get a mild amount of lift (around 2.5") and increase the front suspension travel.
In stock form, the 4th Gen OEM front suspension with the OEM type struts has a bit over 4" of wheel travel.
I will be using Fox 2.0 Emulsion coilovers with 5" of travel. If my math is right, this should result in about 8.5" of wheel travel available (will probably be slightly less than that since I'll need to run limit straps)
I am going to do everything possible to make this a bolt on installation as far as the way the shock brackets are designed. So far, I've just gotten the shocks and springs (10" 750lb spring rate eibach coils) and extended lower shock eyelets.
I think it would be possible to run a 6.5" travel shock, but the front diff might have to be dropped down a bit with brackets in order to reduce the stress on the CV axles at full droop. So for now, I'm staying with a 5" travel shock.
More to come.
So you want to do a SAS on your Explorer/Ranger/BII? Dont really know were to start? To much info to sort through?
We can help. :) This thread is the be all- end all of Explorer, Ranger, and BII solid axle swap tech info.
Solid front axle data thread by FROADER
Bolt in D44 swap The easiest SAS imaginable, practically bolt in by Dannyboy
So you want to do a V8 swap in your Explorer, Ranger, or Bronco II? Well here is a compilation of V8 swap threads-
old general tech thread by Gofast
5 liter and 4R70W into a 1st gen. by seth2472006
5 liter and 4R70W into an 03 Ranger by rwenzing
5 liter and T5 into a 1st gen. by Chief34
4 liter M5OD to A4LD to 5 liter 4R70W by 410 Fortune
5.0L/4R70W 2WD into a 1st Gen (WITH a 2nd Gen Dash Swap) Spdrce
Starting a project? Well here is the forum for it! As a reminder here is what this forum is all about... Stolen from the description-
This forum is for following along with big projects... Lifts, Swaps, etc... IMPORTANT As the subject use your name, or the name of your truck, and the name of the project. Such as Superlift 5.5" installation, Dana 44 conversion, etc.
So stick to these rules and this forum will be a WONDERFULL resource for following along on projects. Any posts put in here that don't follow these rules will be moved or deleted or renamed.
Also, please please please provide pics with your project(s). By now everyone has some sort of digi-cam and a free space to host pics if you are not an elite member. If you are simply asking a question, then obviously you dont need to post pics of your question. :p:
As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.
Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.
Alright so some of you know Ive been painting my truck the last week, and I was going to wait to show it off at T-haven...But I know you all can't wait and I'm to proud of my hard work:D
So here are some pictures I took with my cell phone.
Still have more to do, need to remount the front bumper, wetsand the whole truck and put on the JP logos when they get here..
The entire paint job was done using a $10 air sprayer from Harbor Freight and Rustoleum paint. The green I actually custom made, as no color was available like that.;)
Here is the original...in case you forgot:p:
I haven't posted much here since I sold my 1993 Mazda Navajo around 2010 or 2011. It was 10 years in the making and finally to a solid, reliable state. I had some other priorities and decided to sell it and get something more versatile. I will include some pictures below of its developing states and final state when I sold it below. In the end, it had 37" MTRs, Arb front, detroit rear, 4.56 gears, D and D doubler and I built all the armor and the Dana 44 front Solid Axle Swap.
James duff 3.5" VR coil lift, 235" defender tires and a home made heavy ugly bumper (around 2000 when I bought it) :
2001 with 33x10.50s and James duff 4.5" lift with extended radius arms, manual hubs and new auto tranny:
Here it is just after the SAS with 34s and a swapped in manual tcase and tranny:
Winching out of Mikeys hot tub circa 2002 or so
Stuck on a tree just after 37s
37s, winch bumper rebuild etc
Final State Explorerforum moab trip 2010
Last Poser Shots
I hear it still gets around Colorado and Utah and I have had buddies call me with airings from time to time.
I have had a few rangers and one explorer since I sold my explorer.
Here are some pics of those:
Beat up 1994 Ranger 2.4l ($250)
Traded 1993 Ranger 4.0l and an abused auto tranny
1991 Manual Tcase and Tranny Explorer Sport
We have also had a ton of cool Jeeps. Here are a couple of pics, along with our current Jeep which we are hanging on to:
2005 unlimited Rubicon Sahara 5.7 L Hemi
2005 unlimited Rubicon 35s and 4" lift
Our Current 2005 Unlimited Rubicon 4" Lift 315 Kevlars
It does great grocery getter, family truckster, and occasional wekend wheeler, but I need a truck and I miss my exploder, so I decided to build a Ranger. However, I want to build it a little different this time.
I have always wanted to build a 1989-1992 ranger, so I spent a considerable amount of time looking for a low mile one with the right engine, tranny and tcase in good shape. 4.0l, m5od and 1354M stock. My explorer ended up with this combo, but started out as an auto tranny and tcase. This made for a ton of modifications and headaches with my explorer. Rangers can be had in many other undesirable configurations because they were available with 3 different v6s in 1989-92 and a 4cylinder. It proved to be a difficult task. Finally in the fall of 2012 I picked this one up. A 1991 4.0l manual tranny and transfer case 4x4 extended cab "mountain States Edition. It had 130k on it and ran great. The paint was toast, it had a rusty bed and (my biggest complaint) it had no factory air.
I drove it for a year until I was ready to have it painted. I fixed a bunch on it- thermostat, muffler, wheel bearings, brakes, had a new headliner installed, etc. When I got a quote for the paint (one solid color and fix the dings) it was 2k. So then I started thinking I better look for a different ranger to build! I settled on this one. It too is a 1991, it has air (huge plus after not having it in my other truck all summer), manual case and tranny and everything else and a 4.0. The body is really straight no rust and the interior is super nice. The odo read 83k and I believed it.
Since then I tracked down the original and only owner to find it has 183 k on it and they were all hwy miles. The only complaints I have is I wish it had the other mirrors and pop out extended cab windows. I can deal with those, though. This truck has been taken care of.
First order of business was a tune up, brakes and leaky valve cover gaskets.
The build plan is pretty simple: build it similar to how my explorer ended up, with out all the half builds in between. It took me a lot of work and money to get my explorer to preform well off-road and on the street and be reliable. On this one I want to skip all the poor performing, cheapskate half steps I took with the explorer.
My goal is to end up with a reliable, daily drive able, off-road capable ranger that will make a great driver, great work truck and great expo vehicle. I like the idea of a truck over a explorer sport because I need to haul dirt bikes and Sheetrock and plywood and all kinds of stuff all the time so I always needed a pickup when I had the explorer even though I wanted to drive the explorer all the time. Hopefully this will do both functions well.
So far, I have installed:
A blue tooth pioneer stereo (replacing the stock tape deck)
A optima yellow top
A Black grill and headlight bezels along with new headlights:
The only body work it needs is the topper it had on it was put on with a loose and poorly placed clamp that rubbed a hole in the bed cap. I will weld it up and hopefully add a LineX bedliner over the top
I purchased a Dana 44 out of a 76 f150 with no guts or outers for a $50 bill. I still have my spare warn premium hubs off my ex, and I plan to build this one stout before I put it in and leave it full width but move the c bushings in about 2" per side. I will likely then run stock style f150 wheels with stock backspacing and 35s or 37s as skinny as I can find. It will get a full rebuild and at least 4.88s, maybe 5.13s. I am not decided on radius arms yet. I suppose extended ones are on the bill instead of the stock wristed ones I had before, but I haven't sorted that out yet. The wrist traveled fine but it clunked and made a racket and it was also a pain to get out and pull the pin when it was time to wheel. Extended arms won't perform quite as well on the street as the stock length ones did with the pin in, but longer arms should stream line things.
For the rear I will rebuild a full width late model 31 spline 8.8 put of a bronco or f150 and install explorer disk brakes. I will likely need to have the axle flanges turned down and drill the rotors for the new bolt pattern.
I will extend the wheel base around 3" by moving the front axle forward and leave the rear axle centered in the wheel well. I plan to leave the bed size stock as I need the truck to haul stuff all the time. I will build bumpers and sliders before I beat it up this time.
Stay Tuned, I am picking up the front axle tomorrow.
Brian1's Twin Trail Build
1991 Ford Explorer 4-Door XL 5-Speed Manual 4x4
Project Background and Goals:
I bought this Explorer at a Police auction in August of 2015. I really didn't know what I was going to do with it when I bought it but I couldn't pass up the great deal I got. I stored it away for a bit while deciding to part it out, build it up or just flip it. In the end I decided to build it into a cheap trail truck and use it to R&D some new ideas I had on how to build an Explorer and develop some new parts.
The goal of the build was to do it cheaply while keeping it low, lightweight, and simple. Another goal was to completely transform the Explorer into a trail machine and debut it at the 20th anniversary forum run in Moab (May 2016) while keeping the entire build a secret.
The build has already been completed and made its successful debut in Moab. I will be adding to this thread as time permits of what I did.
Table of Contents - Modifications
to be filled in as the thread progresses for quick access
1" Body Lift
Rear 8.8 Swap and Build
Rear F150 Hybrid Leaf Springs
Front Daystar 2" Coil Spacer & F250 Shock Tower Conversion
Corbeau Seats Pt1
Corbeau Seats Pt2
Rear Shock Bar Pin Eliminators
Dana 35 TTB Beam Boxing
Hybrid Dana 35 Beams with Dana 44 Outer Conversion
Extended Radius Arms
Dana 35 Diff Build with LockRight Locker
Power Steering Cooler
Cutting the Rocker Panels Off
Rear Bumper Build
Front Fender Cutting
Rock Sliders Pt1
Rock sliders Pt2
Front Winch Bumper Build
Extended Breathers and Fuel Pump Access Panel
Rear Fender Cutting
Fabricated Door Panels/Skins
SO I guess the time has came early for my 5.3L LS swap on The Black Pearl!!
LET THE HATE BEGIN!!!
I have a buddy that is a drag-racer but started working for a shitty speed shop in the area and now he is burnt out from engines and all that; He is getting into guns and i have built a few ARs. We did some talking the other weekend and we figured that one of my ARs is worth about the same as his 400-450 horse Gen3 LM7 (706 heads, Gen4 internals. Titanium valve springs, retainers and guides)
Currently the piston rings are gaped and it has a cam setup for spray but he just hadn't gotten around to get nitro setup in the car yet. This is in a late 80s Monte Carlo BTW.
This are some pictures i loaded on my SAS build thread so i will post them up here to keep it all in one place.
This is just a general picture i found on google but thats pretty much the setup i am getting.
I have some 2010 Camaro exhaust manifolds that will be used (IF they fit!) that he threw in as well.
I went to the wrecking yard last weekend and picked up a 2000 tahoe fuseblock, harness, MAF and PCM for $40.65 out the door.
Started pulling it apart and removing ALL un-needed circuits, Factory fuse block, A/C, EVAP, Trans and a few other circuits.
i also added a few circuits such as a secondary ground circuit for the Taurus 2-speed fan i have installed. The fans are controlled by the PCM, the PCM sends ground to the fan relays to turn them on/off at set temps (that will be programmed into the PCM when it gets tuned).
This is what we have left:
To clean things up in the engine bay i am going to use a Corvette style fuel system. There is no fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, it in in-line on the frame rail. It also uses a return-less system incorporated into the fuel filter, with the regulator.
450 is overkill but this pump is a direct for to the explorer in-tank fuel pump according to Walbro.
This fuel filter will replace the factory Explorer fuel filter. It is a Corvette fuel filter with a built in fuel pressure regulator. With a return line back to the tank for unused fuel.
These engines require 60PSI fuel pressure and the 1gen explorers are only pushing around 30-40 PSI.
Some of you may know, and some may have suspected, but I'm starting a new project and it starts with a truck you all will recognize.
I picked up R.J.'s Navajo today. She is a little tired and was facing being parted out, but now will start a new chapter, a very different chapter. I give you Plan B.
So let's start off as to why "Plan B"? Well, it has multiple meanings.
It starts off as I really wanted a early Bronco. I first learned to drive on Zukmans '71 Bronco he had years ago. But myself owning a early Bronco was not going to happen. There just way to ridiculous priced these days.:eek: So this is My Plan B.
JP is not going anywhere, I really just wanted to to do another build and JP is...well, JP!. It works, but it has a following and presence that really can't be changed....it's almost become, dare I say, an Icon of this forum. :jp: So this is My Plan B
The Navajo was on it's death bed. R.J. himself had already give it a time of death... :dead: So this is it's Plan B.....or maybe for it C...But for my plan, we'll say B :D
So what does the Plan B build look like? You'll have to watch and find out. But I'll give you some teasers..
Starting Base : 1991 Mazda Navajo JX 4x4
SOHC - donor: 2000 Explorer Sport 4x2 103k
5R55E - donor: 2008 Ranger FX4 45k
1354 manual - still looking for
:sawzall: to smell the fresh air;)
Super Duty Axles - '99 F350 4x4 PSD
40's - settling for 37's now
I think that should be enough to entice you all for now...
This is My Plan B
I picked up my transfer case last night.
Two t cases were included in the deal, one is strictly for parts.
The t case I will be using in my 96 5.0L AWD explorer is a 2001 F-150 BW 4406 manual shift :) this makes me very happy. I will no longer have full time AWD, instead I will have 2wd, 4hi and 4 low, increased RWHP, better MPG, and less tire wear. Also a more capable truck off road for light wheeling (getting to the fishing spot, colorado winters, etc)
I have ALOT of research to do before I get started collecting more parts and modifying the t case so it can be installed...I am just beggining this conversion.
Once I get a better picture of everything that is needed I can post more.
I know I need to get the manual shifter linkage and driveshafts/driveshaft parts at the very least.
I will have to figure out how to make a speed sensor talk to my 96 computer from this case, I will have to make this sucker fit under my truck, and I will have to modify some driveshafts to work or the T case itself before I can bolt it in.
For now the pictures:
Mid 80-90's full size bronco T case (possibly use the driveshaft yokes, sensors, tailhousing, etc we will see):
The FSB t case tag:
And now the new baby, 2001 BW 4406 manual shift:
Oh my 4406 T case has 7 miles on it hahahaha and I bought it for likely less then Ford would pay BW for this case!! Shhhhh....dont tell anyone.
Anyone want to buy a 96 AWD t case, work perfect, approx 85K miles.
Hello everybody! It's time to start the SAS on my Explorer. It will be an awesome project and the first project of this type and size that I have ever undertaken. Up to this point the sliders where the hardest thing that I have made myself. I am open to any suggestions and or insights from anyone as the project gets underway. I have bought every last part for the build minus the hard brake lines (axles, and from master to the frame) and the flexible lines that go down to the axles. Those are all easy to make so I am not worried about it for now until I get the axles put together and can see what i want to do with those.
Now for a list of things I will be doing with the project:
1995 F-150 8.8 - I bought this used rear axle that I will strip, lock with a Detroit, convert to Explorer Disc brakes, and mount to the truck. Factory rear sway bar will be used. I will be doing a spring over conversion and will also be remaking the rear V8 anti axle wrap bars to help the leaf springs out with the leverage and TQ the V8 37's and 5.13's will put on them.
1976 F-150 HP Dana 44 - I bought this used axle and will be stripping it of the Ford factory wedges, trussing, and building custom glorified radius arms. Like DB_1 runs and like Rubicon Expresses makes. Front will also have a Detroit Truetrac LSD in it as well. This Dana 44 has 1/2" thick axle tubes.
Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs - I will be building shock hoops for these coil-overs, bracing them, and tying them together across the top of the engine with removable double lock tube clamps.
1995 F-150 Steering box - This will be mounted inside the frame rail and used with the factory PS pump and will build a custom steering link from the box to the column. I picked this 1 to keep it ALL Ford and 2 because they are fairly cheap and easy and can be tapped for hydro assist at some point if I want or need it. In order to fit this steering gear I also have to remote mount my oil filter so that it has room. I will be getting rid of the factory oil cooler and have a Trans Dapt remote filter relocation kit.
Project Parts Section:
-37X13.50 R17 Interco M-16's
-Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs with Eibach Springs.
-Detroit Locker for the 8.8
-Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 44
-Yukon 5.13 gears for both front and rear.
-Both axles will receive ALL new bearings races and seals u-joints etc.
-All wheel studs front and rear and spindle studs have been replaced for safety reasons. To cheap not to.
-Already had EBC brakes on it so those pads on rear will be reused and new EBC 7000 series pads for the front have been purchased.
-New front rotors wheel bearings and new Spicer ball joints, going to reuse the warn locking hubs as they work great and are in good order and easily changed later if i wanted.
-1978 Ford T-Bird calipers have been bought in place of the factory F-150 ones. They are 17% bigger in piston size so will give me a little more brake up front to help stop those 37's.
-Trans Dapt Oil filter relocation Kit and addition mount to hook to the block at a 90*.
-Currie Johnny Joints and Rubicon Express Clevite bushings for the all the link ends.
-GM 1 ton tre's for the steering with a high angle tre at the pitman arm.
-Front axle truss. (wasn't impressed with it at all so will be making some changes)
-Extending current Expedition rear drive shaft and will have a custom double cardon one made for the front.
-Metal used: 2"X.250 wall DOM for lower links, 1 1/2"X.250 wall DOM used for upper links, 1 1/2"X.375 wall DOM used for trac bar, and ALL tabs and brackets will be made out of 1/4" Flat plate by me.
-Double lock tube clamps for the shock hoop cross brace that uses 2 3/8" bolts on each. These are so It can be removed.
-All Grade 8 hardware will be used.
-All flexible brake lines will be braided stainless steel Teflon lined hoses.
I like to follow others projects and often find myself wanting more pictures so bare with me there will be A LOT of pictures of the build. I hope you enjoy lots of pictures as much as I do.
First some pictures of what the truck was! Then onto some parts pictures. Build will start shortly.
1998 XLT Explorer. 5.0L with the 4R70W trans. I have the 4406 T-Case. 3.73 gears with rear LSD. Goodyear 31's. Rock sliders and front skid plate. Links to those builds are in my signature.
And here is some video links! :) There are a few videos of me wheeling in CO with nssj2!
Its been five long years but it is now lifted.
James Duff stage 3 5.5" lift
Rough Stuff SOA 8.8 spring perches
G2 4.88 gears
8.8 Detroit Locker
35x12.5xr15 Goodyear MTRs
All new MOOG ball joints/pivot bushings
Okay, the time has come to start this swap. While everyone was off goofing around in Moab over the weekend, I pulled my old 4.0L and 5spd from my sport.
Here are the details:
The patient - 1994 Explorer Sport 4.0L ohv 5spd manual 151K miles
The donor - 2004 Ranger 4.0L sohc 5spd manual 7K miles
My plan is to use as much of the original 94 electronics as possible. Yes, I could wire in the 04 electronics and computer, but I just don't want to. I'm trying to keep this swap simple so it "could" be done in a weekend.
Other details to sort out are:
Pictures will follow shortly as I take them.
If anyone has done this before and can share their expience, please post in this thread. I believe that this has been done before, but as far as I know, there is not much documentation for a 1st gen 4x4 chassis. I know some ranger guys have done this with some 2wd trucks. There is very limited knowledge about this swap in the early trucks. Sure anyone can swap in 5.0L's with all the adaptors available. Let's hear about the experiences with 4.0L SOHC swap.
I would like to keep this thread on track with useful information relating to the swap. PLEASE do not post dumb comments like "where are the pictures" or "wow, this is cool". Please keep those to yourself.
Time spent pulling drivetrain and cleaning up = 8hrs. Total time = 8hrs.
Hello explorer forum! I hate to have started this thread a bit late in the season but I feel like this could help others that may decide to do a OHV - SOHC engine swap. I have already completed my swap and put 1250 miles to this date on ranger and im looking back on all these pics that I cant help but think may be useful to you all. So im rounding up my pictures and soon im going to start a detailed write out of all the modifications made to make this swap work for my daily driven situation. I stayed up all night putting the pics in a pile from all the friends I had sent them to in the past and tomorrow I will start posting on this thread how it all came together.
The chassis I started with was a 1990 ford ranger XLT 4x4 4.0 OHV auto A4LD
The donor vehicle was a 1999 ford explorer 4.0 sohc with a newer auto trans, 4r55/5r55???
Pics the day I bought the pickup assuming I was only in for a head gasket replacement
What’s up everyone? I’ve recently hit a deer with my Explorer. It’s at the body shop and they’re just about done with it, BUT they can’t find a front grille for this thing. Ford has it on back order with no eta. I’ve only had the vehicle a month so this is driving me nuts. We’ve checked all over. The part number is JB5Z-8200-BD. Can anyone help with any suggestions? Thanks
Hello my Ford peeps,
I was wondering if I could get some advice about lockers.
Here's my scenario:
I have an '05 ST Adrenalin. It will be my non-daily driver offroad rig build. I will install a 3" torsion key lift for the front and a 2" add a leaf in the rear. I'm gonna run 265/75r16 AT's (most likely Falken Wildpeaks) on stock wheels. I live in Vegas and will camp/overland in this rig. I will also road trip to Utah and Arizona. I will occasionally tow a tear drop trailer. And my wife and child will be with me. It's sort of a budget build. I'd like it to be an efficient and safe rig at a lower cost.
I am undecided on an automatic locker vs a selectable locker.
My main concern with automatic lockers is the stories of locking/unlocking at unwanted times. I've also read that I must modify my driving style with an automatic locker, which I'm totally fine with. I've also read about the extra wear on tires that come with using automatic lockers. But the pros about automatic lockers are very enticing, such as the cost. I know selectable lockers are pricey (but also a great investment into a rig).
Whichever I choose, will be professionally installed, so installation error should be a non-factor.
I welcome any and all advice. Thank you all. Please help. Lol!
I started building my second RBV, a Bronco ii.
This thread is to post about and document the work done to the car, so it can help others that are building a b2 or ranger based vehicle. This is actually my second build thread about this rig, the first one was accidentally deleted.
I picked up this 1990 bronco ii in august of 2016. It's an automatic, 4x4, Eddie Bauer edition, that was already spray painted green when I bought it. But it had what I wanted, cruise control, factory a/c, electric Windows and locks, (although none that stuff worked, it was there for the fixin') and it was a fair price for a b2 with decent interior..... Almost none of the other ones on Craigslist had a good interior, or they wanted way too much money.
So why build another 4x4 when i already have a built up explorer/Navajo?
Well this one just has a different vision for it. I don't plan for this one to be big and crazy and an all out dedicated trail rig. At least not for a few years. I want this car to be capable off road, but retain as much road manners as possible. Almost more like an overlanding vehicle. I want to be able to drive it long distances, use it for camping and mountain biking, and for four wheeling, but not something that needs a trailer.
So I want to keep the lift to a minimum, keep things relatively simple. Put some 33's, trim the fenders, some lockers, and just keep fine tuning everything as I go along.