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I replaced mine 5 years ago using the 3M automotive tape and haven't had any problems since.

Mine gets moved all the time from the factory parked position such as when I go through the automatic car wash. I move it back to where it belongs with my hand and tighten the bolt on occassion but it gets knocked loose again.

I replaced my '03 4.0 a few years back and didn't do anything special but remove the bolts and clean both surfaces.

Most likely a sticky thermostat. Mine did the same thing a few years back and I replaced it in about 30 minutes.

It's emissions related and helps to protect the intake from engine heat.

If anything I would use JB Weld.

Some of the brake symptoms you describe are similar to those I had last year after flushing all my lines and causing the 9 year old master cylinder to fail. Cheap (under $100) and easy enough to replace provided you know how to properly bench bleed the new cylinder. To say the least it got real...

"I called & asked the place that did the alignment and they assured me they wouldnt have touched the brakes doing the alignment." How else would you expect them to stay in business in this economy. I just replaced my upper ball joints yesterday and my guess would be either the pads were...

You might find other cracks develop after the cosmetic repair. It's the adhesive that was originally used and would not flex with the glass. The replacement I installed several years ago was put on with 3M sponge type auto molding tape. I haven't had any problems since.

Real simple to replace and absolutely no reason to remove the control arms. After using the medium size receiving cup on the top end of the ball joint to remove, (from the small AutoZone kit), just place the cup on the bottom side when installing the new ball joint. No need to turn the pressure...

I have '06 Explorer 17" wheels on my '03 Eddie Bauer.

It's most likely a bad thermostat and easy to change.

It's most likely a bad thermostat and easy to change.

The switch in my '03 EB resets each time I change from R to D. A real pain when "practice-backing" my ATV trailer!

Don't open the door when refueling? It's a practice I've gotten used to after 8 years with my '03.

Mine did the exact same thing for a few weeks until I replaced the thermostat.

Most likely it's a sticking thermostat. I replaced mine last year after the gauge would peak at HIGH after warm-up and then finally settle where it should be normally.

In my '03 Escape the sensor was in the mirror.

One of those sensors is used to activate the auto headlights if you have them.

The button on the box by the windshield initiates the calibration sequence for the compass. Read your owners manual for the exact procedure.

I've been running 35 in all four tires since 2003 and also average 21 on the highway--unlike the sticker inside the driver's door and fuel door which recommends 30 front and 35 rear.

No worries--it's only cosmetic. As it heats-up and cools down the crack will open and close. Replace the panel and use 3M adhesive tape instead of the factory glue. I saw an Explorer yesterday where they had replaced the panel with a black primered one without the emblem and it looked worse...

You can file down some of the fins in the air intake and minimize or eliminate the noise. I haven't bothered, and I've gotten used to the noise in the Summer months. There are threads in this forum from a few years ago where you can find instructions and pictures.

I have 88K on my '03 and have similar noise. It is a design feature of the air intake vortex. I usually only hear it when the temperatures here in Phoenix are above 100F.

I have 88K on my '03 and have had a similar noise for several years but it's simply a design feature of the air intake vortex. I usually only hear it when the temperatures here in Phoenix are above 100F.