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Thanks! If I recall, I used the existing the existing brackets and hangers. I compared them and they seemed identical.

Vehicle is a 1999 OHV Auto 2-door Sport, 220,000kms (136k miles) I recently noticed my coolant was down about 1/2 qt. I pulled the radiator cap and found some yellow gunk built up underneath. The engine does not overheat, the idle goes through minor fluctuations and rests around 900-1100...

THANK YOU for this write-up. I just finished switching out the monoleafs on my 99 Sport with a 4-leaf pack from an XLT. Looks and rides so much better now

Sorry guys, I forgot to check back on this thread. This has been resolved. Seems that the tube running under the egr valve was not making a tight fit. Fixed this and everything has been running smooth since then.

Great write up!:thumbsup: I pulled a latch off a 4door (front driver) to install into my 2 door. The 2 door is definitely harder to work on - smaller clearances and openings. A lot of cuts and cussing for someone with bigger hands Also, if you are changing the exterior handle, driver and...

at my f*^ing wit's end with this problem(!) Changed the synchronizer (seriously Ford, could you have made it any more difficult to access!!) The old synchronizer was actually toast, when trying to twist it by hand it kept jamming up and squeaking. Installed a ford re-manufactured unit...

UPDATE: After a few months of tinkering and trial/error, the engine has developped a loud whine from the back (near the firewall). I'm assuming it's the synchronizer I'll be replacing that this weekend *crosses fingers*

I have the 4.10 and LSD on mine, and right now it feels like it's the only thing preventing me from selling the truck :( I'm going to check wiring/connectors over the weekend on MAF and o2 sensors

1999 Explorer Sport OHV....the engine hesitates. Symptoms are: - Hesitation while accelerating, especially under load (uphill) - Hesitation is very sudden and jerky, and appears only when engine is hot and has been running for at least 30-45mins on a warm day, longer (2-3 hours) at night or...

Jerzey, did you get them installed..?? any feedback?

My current explorer is a 1999 2dr with monoleafs. I recently got my hands on a 15ft camper trailer 2500lbs that brings the X's rear down when towing. I'm considering switching the monoleafs for a 4dr leaf pack, and also want to replace the shocks at the same time My 3 main decision...

I recently bought 2x6v 200ah deep cycle Adventurer batteries to use on my camper. I currently own this 12/2A charger -> MotoMaster Battery Charger with 75A Engine Start The guy I bought the batteries off said that he has used the same charger for years without any issues, he just recommended...

Thanks, that calculator works really well:thumbsup:

I recently bought a 1999 Explorer Sport with a set of 255/70 R16 tires that need replacing. Current options include a set of 265/70 Goodyears or Nokian. I understand the difference between the two tire sizes….so I’d like to know if it is OK to deviate from the factory recommended tire size...

hello from the okanagan!

I've successfully used #5 on my fuel filter a few times - but can't get it to work on my fuel pump connectors Will be trying out #2 or #4 tonight

Welcome Great pics!:thumbsup:

once you get her up and running again.... This might fix your 4x4 problem - clicking while trying to engage is one of the symptoms listed http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123542

Actually I used an 8mm - I entered 9mm in error in the original post. I got in touch with Nicki Fabri from Fabri Associates who manufacture an extraction kit. Very quick and great communication - unfortunately their kit only works on broken bolts, which does not apply to my situation. They...

I was following the steps to change the rear axle bearings and seals from this thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214805 unfortunately the pinion shaft bolt refused to move, and the head shaved (rounded) in the 9mm wrench (EDIT:it was 8mm) that I was using How do I...

excellent, sounds like a pretty straightforward procedure. Shop quoted me $225CAD for parts & labor. Looks like I'll be tackling this one! Thanks for the write-up - I too found this link slightly discouraging

How different would this procedure be for an open 3.23 on a 1st gen with drums?

The first time I took a stab at the project was a rather frustrating moment. I have a 12 point 12mm socket, but it's a 1/2" drive and it didn't fit right where the pinch bolt rested. Had to reassemble everything and drive to the shop for a new socket:mad:

15/16 fit perfectly. The rusted cotter pin was a pain, but eventually I was able to chip away at it with a punch, screwdriver, and hammer - removing whatever was protruding beyond the ball joint post (about 30 minutes + 1 broken punch) Worth noting: - My OEM pinch bolt required a thin...

Can anyone confirm what size the lower ball joint castle nut is? Also, I was taking a look at mine and discovered that rust had completely eaten away at the lower ball joint's cotter pin. Not quite sure how to punch it out...any help??