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Thanks for this info. Could this repair be done buy just removing the stock part and installing new o-rings? I have access to all sizes at work and wondering why I couldn't just do that?

Thank God! :thumbsup:

Uugh! Please tell me you are moving that bumper up! You can make your own brackets, or get them from Performance Accessories.

How much lift do you have? It doesn't look like you have enough room for 35s. I have a 3" body lift with a Superlift cranked up to about 5 to 5.5" and trimmed inner fenders...and still get some rubbing with 35" BFG All Terrains. The rear came out to about a 6" with a spring over axle...no...

Loss of articulation isn't my main concern. If I want to wheel this thing, I'd have to go to 33"s for some clearance...or cut the front fenders way out. Actually, even with a ladder bar, the rear would probably out flex the front since they would be hitting the fenders. I've already trimmed...

I have a lot of axle wrap after my SOA. I have a 5 speed, 4.56 gears and 35"s. I'm using stock 4 door leafs with welded on spring perches. I saw a Ranger pick-up had some type of ladder bars on it. Anyone use anything like this? I may be building something like them in the...

Come on guys...get these stompers up on some 35"s or at least some 33"s!! Dead Link Removed Save the 31"s for the little Jeeps! Dead Link Removed Merry Christmas!! Dead Link Removed

Thanks...makes me feel better!

I agree. If I was doing duals, which doesn't seem ideal on this motor, I'd keep the pipes stock diameter. It seems you are going more for looks and sound than real perfromance. That's ok if it's what you want.

I used a Flowmaster 40 and 2.25" pipe. I know the OHV is not a torque monster so i didn't want to go big on the pipe. As a very general rule of thumb, larger pipe will be better at high RPMs and a smaller diameter will give better torque. I personally wouldn't even consider duals...just...

Anyone? Since this is going to be in the shop, it would be hard for me to make another set of brackets and explain things to them. I want to make sure they order the right part.

I hit a deer last weekend so my Ex is going to the body shop. I had previously made the brackets to lift the front bumper, but they got mangled. I talked to the shop owner and told him he could just order some aftermarket ones. I just want to verify that i need the brackets from kit 883 for...

It is just like bleeding brakes. Do a search or get a manual for the specifics, but basically, it's a 2 man job. Pump the pedal, then hold it in, break opent the fitting to release the air, and repeat untill only fluid is coming out. In the summertime, my truck will loose some pedal feel...

Try bleeding the slave cylinder if it has one. Not sure about that year though. Look on the firewall for something that looks like the brake resevoir only smaller.

If you are going to do the work, may as well do the 3" now. It isn't anymore of a hassle to install. That extra inch is one less you will have to achieve with the TT AND less trimming. As far as seeing the frame, it isn't even noticeable. On S-10s it really stands out, but the Explorer's...

My post said that you can find the correct part number for the extension...not that you have to make one. I was just saying that I used a different kit to let you know that I cannot provide part numbers. Did you do any searches? I believe that you have to order one kit and then get a...

I think Pro-Trucks are a little too expensive. Order through Summit Racing...they're in Ohio and it only takes a day to get anything. I would do the 3" body lift. I made a steering extension by installing a u-joint to the stock shaft. If you do the search, you will find the right part...

I have 35" BFG ATs. The front lift is a 4" Superlift and another 1" to1.5" with the TT. I had to trim the fenders, and when I get some time, I'll be trimming more. There is one point when the wheels are turned that they rub. I have learned to either over or understeer, depending on the...

My 33"s and 4.56s weren't really a good combo on the highway...4.10s would be fine. Even with my 35s on, it still isn't that great for the highway...it still tachs out too much. I'd stick with 4.10s for decent all-around driving.

The height of the rear of the torsion bar is not the issue. The front of the torsion bar, when twisted, forces the vehicle up. By moving that bracket down, you are not really doing anything...I hope that makes sense. The drop brackets that come in the lift kits just help to relocate...

entinnovations- Yes, you should jack it up...it's easier with the weight off the torsion bars. Make sure you measure before and after, don't just go by the amount of turns on the bolt. My bolts are not turned in the same amount. You may also have to get a longer bolt...if you do make sure...

Nothing on-line anywhere?

The shop I went to couldn't lengthen it because of the round joint...wouldn't bolt up to any of his fittings. When we measured the shaft, it seemed long enough anyways. There is no binding, so I don't really know why Superlift says you need a new shaft. By the way, I know that disabling the...

itbejared- You can run the stock shaft. Just disable the AWD and the shaft will last longer. I have been running mine since before winter with no problems.

The link is to the kit. I'm not sure if that includes the rear springs or not...better make sure. I estimate my SOA at 6"+. I have the 4" in front PLUS 1 to 1.5" additional using the TT and the rear is still higher. There may be a couple reasons for this. I bought these springs brand...