"1994 B2300 Timing issue-Possible PCM system problem"

[jstelmack]

Greetings, I purchased a 1994 B2300, 5 speed. No frills base model. Excellent body chassis and trans. Engine won't run to save it's own soul. Either the valve train is hosed or the ignition timing system is screwed up. My goal is to replace this 2.3L with the lowest complexity engine possible i.e. carb, old school distributor. I prefer to keep the existing 5 speed trans. Ability to perform maintenance in the long term is PRIORITY for me. This will be my backup vehicle if everything goes south..

That said, here is my question: What year/size engines would y'all recommend? Keep in mind it should bolt up to the trans. I have no emissions requirements/inspections where I live.

Your advice is greatly appreciated!
John

 

[Tbars4]

..I'm not sure where you are located but I would gladly take that overly complicated 2.3L off your hands for ya..:biggthump

..It sounds like you are already familiar with the art of gapping points, setting timing and dwell, as well as rebuilding carbs as regular maintenance but, maybe someone else can chime in to help on what you are looking for.

 

[RangerX]

You can look here http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/4cylinders.html for info on the 2.3. Get a mid 80s or older carbed engine.

 

[Tbars4]

..I would surely think it would be easier to pull the codes and diagnose what the problem is rather then doing a motor/computer/ and wiring swap..

..The 2.3L you have is a relatively indestructible, low maintenance motor. People just are scared to see a 4 cylinder motor with 8 plugs and 2 coil packs..

..I've put about 100,000 miles in the last 4 years on mine (currently 250,000) which includes daily work hauling tools/materials duty and beating on it off road pretty regular. Major problems in that time was 1 timing belt (normal Life about 60,000 miles) and 2 coil packs cause I busted one off somewhere down the road..

..:scratch: I am about due for a clutch, plugs and wires as mine were new about 4 years ago..

..I've literally had fluids venting out of several tubes over the course that I've owned it (all while off roading) and other than swapping the fluids, no problems yet...:shifty_ey

..I probably have 4 oil changes in the last 4 years too..Honestly, I still don't know of a more reliable, low maintenance vehicle and motor that can take such abuse.

..I am curious of how long you have owned the vehicle and who diagnosed it's problems?

..There are a lot of Ranger owners here that are more than glad to help you remedy your problem..

 

[IZwack]

Electric motor One moving part, and you've got the entire bed for the batteries.

 

[jstelmack]

I'm in E. Alabama. A long drive to pick up an engine. I originally purchased the truck as a doner for an electric vehicle. Things changed and cash went elsewhere so it will stay a gaser. I want a backup vehicle for rough times. One that I can scavange parts easily and perform maintenance in the home shop. Rangers are everywhere.

This engine seems to be very loose in the valve train. It will not stay running. No codes. Best research online described the problem as a malfunctioning water temp sensor. Turns out that coolant temperature influences ignition timing. Made sense so I replaced it with new sensor. No dice. When the engine runs it has zero power and rattles like a bucket of bolts on a hookers headboard. (No disrespect to hookers).

I've had this lawn ornament for about two years and have been the only one working on it. I have the (useless) aftermarket service manual.

I grew up with points and carbs, but have a general understanding of electronic automotive systems. It would be easier to repair this engine. However, it has my brain rattling like the bucket of bolts mentioned earlier. I'll check out thereangerstation and see what they have to offer. Thanks for the links!

 

[jstelmack]

New info 1994 2.3 B2300 2wd 5 speed base model

Something does not jive because I find that this 2.3 (1994) DOES have the Camshaft Position Sensor. It is located on top of the synchronizer where you would expect to see a distributor. The electrical connector is there and it is connected to the wiring harness. This should only be for California trucks. There is no indication this vehicle was ever in CA. It was made in Edison NJ. According to fleet.ford.com this VIN 4F4CR12A6RTM05054 everything I know about the truck is accurate, except the Camshaft Position Sensor being there. There are no stickers on the door jambs, under hood etc that shows the California emissions. Keep in mind I am in Alabama. With some advice that y'all have given, I've decided to try and make this thing run before investing in a replacement engine (distributor and carb type). Any hints - suggestions?
Thanks
John

p.s. The emissions sticker says approved for US EPA. It does not say approved for California.
ALSO: Removed the Camshaft positioning sensor and synchronizer. The "VANE" or "window" that passes between the magnet and sensor is not a small window. It is roughly 50% of the circumference of the whole cup. In other words, the opening is as large as the blocked part. %50 open then 50% closed. This is NOTHING like any picture I've seen of this anywhere. Makes me think that this part is a "filler" in preparation for the 1995 model requiring the Camshaft Positioning Sensor. If so, this is not my problem.

Thoughts?

 

[jstelmack]

Upload picture of Syncronizer and Cam Pos Sensor

You can see the "window" is %50 of the total circumference. This does not seem right. There are no signs of damage or broken pieces. Inside the unit it looks fairly new.

Thanks (in advance) for your input!
John

 

[Tbars4]

..Does it have a part number? Perhaps someone put a wrong part in..

...A little more info on the problem may help find some answers..

..The jist I get when you bought the truck is that the shape the motor was in did not matter since it was being turned into an electric vehicle and may have got the truck for really cheap because it had a bad motor..Now that things have changed, you need to fix the motor. Is this correct?

..Have you tried talking to the guy you bought it from? He may be able to shed some light on the problem..

..Most all of your sensor symptoms will throw a code..I have a feeling it is a mechanical problem in the upper end (reason for no codes) which you may just be able to swap it out..

...Another thing you might want to do is check with local engine builders who build 2.3L's..They can probably give you an immediate answer to what your motor's problem may be for the price of a phone call..

 

[jstelmack]

Tbars4 - Thanks for helping! Correct - I purchased this to make an electric, did not care about the engine. Times changed and, well, no money for the conversion. A funny thing about the part number: On the casing of the housing the number is molded into the part. It's a Motorcraft. The "sticker" is one character off. Google searches on the number said it was a distributor for a 2.3L engine. No way this can be a "distributor".

I purchased this from a dealer clearance lot. It was cheap.

Code: I'll go out and check now since trying all day to get this thing running. One thing new I found, and might be the whole darn problem, is it will fire over with a blast of starting fluid into the air intake. But then it quickly dies off. Checking for fuel pressure, I set a push-pin down into the fuel pressure release valve on the injector rail: Nothing but a tiny drop of gas showed up. Key on.. Same. I gotta now figure out why there is no fuel pressure.... It's possible that this has been the problem all along.

About the dealer... He told me they had to get rid of it because they could not get it to run right. They put a new set of injectors, rail, several of the sensors, relays etc.. etc.. He just wanted to cut his losses. I could tell that those parts were new at the time I bought it. OH. NEw tires and brakes as well. Never been driven on..

Will go check codes and write back.
Thanks again
John

 

[Tbars4]

..Yea, codes...Bring them back here if you got them and this may get easier..

..When you turn the key to the "On" position without starting it, do you hear the fuel pump prime each and every time? If not, first locate he fuel pump relay and replace it..

 

[jstelmack]

The codes are hard to read. I come up with less then a multiple of three. In total there are eleven digits read out which is not right. Could not relate any string of three to a valid code according to the service manual.

After clearing the codes (removed jumper during read), I get 1 1 1 --- 1 1 1 and that is all.

I do not hear the fuel pump. Wife turns on ignition while my ear is close to the gas tank filler tube. Nadda.... Push in the presure release valve on the rail, nothing, not even a drop.

I've swapped the fuel pump relay and EEC relay since they are the same. Still no fuel pressure. But now, the relay that is in the fuel pump position gets slightly warm to the touch. Leads me to believe the pump (or circuit to it) may be shorted.


It sure would be great if the only problem with this truck is a bad fuel pump! Going to try and remove it tomorrow - weather permitting.

Thanks again!
John

 

[Tbars4]

...Common area for shorts or brake in wiring is on top of the tank/fuel pump..

...This may get it running enough to hopefully see if you do have a valve train problem and/or timing problem..

..Kinda wished you hadn't cleared the codes until you figured out what was coming up first..It's common to have 2 and 3 digit codes...You may have a bit of a wait till they come back..

 

[jstelmack]

I pulled the bed off so I could work on fuel pump easier. Checked the inertia switch. No problems there. On the connector at the fuel pump I only get 9.7 volts. No a direct short but certainly an abnormally high drop in voltage. Weather interfered further work today. Will diagnose and repair the wiring issue and get back to the timing issue. This truck did run 2 years ago, although I use the word "RUN" loosely. Will update tomorrow. Also have to replace the fuel neck tube. The rubber is cracked/dry rotted - very bad shape.

 

[RangerX]

I could change your thread title to reflect the new direction it's going in, if you want. It might help get more people looking and maybe help diagnose...

 

[jstelmack]

Thanks RangerX - Excellent idea. Suggestion for title:

"1994 B2300 Timing issue-Popssible PCM system problem"


I think the fuel pump is secondary (at this point) and must be corrected to get back to the original problem state. Should be at that point today.


p.s.
This is a great website with very helpful members!

 

[jstelmack]

The fuel pump is toast. In fact the whole assembly is corroded. The fuel filler neck (tube) is disintegrated. The four wires to the fuel pump (at the pump) have all been spliced by a previous owner/mechanic.

I found that there is 9.7 volts on the positive side of the fuel pump harness even with the fuel pump fuse and relay removed. I could verify all wiring between the fuel pump and inertia switch are correct and power is not redirected from another source. Still have to figure out where the voltage source is.

Am ordering new fuel pump assy form rockauto.com. O'reilly auto parts has the fuel filler next tube by the foot - $11 / foot or so.

Will update when those parts installed.

Thanks,
John
MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

 

[Tbars4]

...That kind of short/bad wiring can wreak all kinds of havoc on a computer controlled motor..

..That would sure answer all the chasing the dealer did...Hopefully the computer held up and you will resolve the electrical issue in short term..

..Happy Holiday's to you and yours too..

 

[jstelmack]

TbarsZ - I think you are right. Some of the inputs on the powertrain module and ignition control module are analog/variable voltage signals. The fuel pumps assy has shipped. I'll clean out the gas tank, install the fuel filter and purge/clean the fuel lines between tank and injector rail. This is turning into a mission.

By the way, I found that using the engine hoist makes lifting the bed off/on is a very simple task. Six bolts and one electric connector (rear lights) is all. It takes 20 minutes tops. Will post some pics later.

Merry Christmas! And thanks to all for the great advice!
Regards,
John

 

[jstelmack]

Can't identify vacum line cap that shot off

When trying to start it using starting fluid, it backfired. When it backfired, a soft black rubber cap shot up like a bullet and hit the underside of the hood. It looks like a cap that would be installed on an unused vacum port. Every vacum port I can find has either a hose or cap on it. The cap has an inside diameter of approx 3/8" to 7"16". About the size you would expect to see on a PCV port.

Any ideas where this might go?

I've searched all over that engine compartment today. NO IDEA where this cap goes. I suspect the engine will not run properly without the vacuum system in tact.

Installed the new fuel pump and filler neck. NOTE: The filler neck tube is 2" ID at the gas cap BUT! At the tank fitting it is 2 3/8" ID. I had to heat the new filler tube with a radiant heater and stretch it to make it fit. It took several passes so as not to stretch it too much and tear it or break the cord inside the rubber. Now to replace the fuel filter and get some fresh gas...