Couple pics of my lowered 2wd sport

[Twisted1]

Here's a few pics of my lowered 97 2wd sport. The rear is a stock sagging mono leaf with a block for 4-5" of drop. I'm looking into other rear spring options now so that I might be able to stay at this height but get rid of the lowering block. The front is a torsion twist with a key flip and Moog camber adjustment kit to get the camber right. I'm down about 5" in the front as it sits now also and it rides beautiful now that I've removed the front bump stops.

I went a step further than I've seen anyone else do in their right ups and I pocketed the torsion key socket to allow everything to sit up in place tighter with the keys flipped. It didn't effect anything structural so there was no downside to doing it.

I also ran the grinder down the square edges of the keys right where they pocket into the area on the frame I ground down for clearancing.

 

[X~FACTOR]

You need AT LEAST 25mm spacers. Those wheels are too tucked in!
That or lose those fender flairs.

 

[turboranger91]

I agree. Otherwise, a pretty slick looking truck.

 

[Twisted1]

Those are just some cobra wheels I had laying around the shop. I'm refinishing a pair of wide 15's for the rear now to mount my drag radials on. They sit flush with the outside of the rear flares. 2 of those cobra's are bent but they're good enough to get it all dialed in and get the bugs worked out of it.

 

[Twisted1]

My new wheels

Here's the new sneakers for it. They fill the wheel wells a lot beter!

 

[jimster502]

Can you post more detailed pics of what exactly was done to the torsion key? And are you running stock height shocks? I've removed the torsion bolts and did a 3" drop blocks for the rear but I want it to be lower lol..I also read in your "build" thread that you installed new leaf springs? I'm tired of having my rear axle maxing out and hitting the frame, especially when I have more than a 1/4 tank of gas :/

 

[jimster502]

Oh and can I get a part number on the moog camber bolts? The ones I bought didn't allow for much camber adjustment and I now have slight negative camber up front, thanks in advance!

 

[swshawaii]

Ready to install lowering keys.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-06-Ford-...672046?hash=item4175873f2e&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true

Northstar Camber Kits (3.25 degrees)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422522

 

[jimster502]

Ready to install lowering keys.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-06-Ford-...672046?hash=item4175873f2e&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true

Northstar Camber Kits (3.25 degrees)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422522

Did you install those keys on your explorer? And I think I used camber bolts with the same adjustment and they didn't allow my alignment to be good..I'll double check on that later to make sure

 

[Twisted1]

I flipped the factory keys on mine and did a little grinding in the key pocket so it wouldn't bind. I haven't swapped out the shocks yet because I wasn't positive if I was leaving things alone yet

 

[swshawaii]

Did you install those keys on your explorer? And I think I used camber bolts with the same adjustment and they didn't allow my alignment to be good..I'll double check on that later to make sure

I used the exact same drop keys when Chassis Tech/AirBagit/AIM claimed they were "special" forged keys and charging $150 pair. Lucky for me I was on the MyST forum when Dan Long posted the #7 keys, 3" iron blocks and u-bolts for $75 plus USPS flat rate large box shipping. Reason I used the keys was I only got 1.5" by removing the bolts and the key flip seemed kind of hack to me at the time. Strange thing is the Moog K80065 1 5/8 degree kits I installed allowed me to get within 1/2 degree negative camber for my 2.75" front drop. I cut 1/2" off the stock front bump stops to keep from riding on them and preventing a harsh ride. I guess what everyone says is true, no two Explorer's are alike, especially when changing ride height in either direction. LOL

BTW, nice job Twisted1, your truck looks beautiful. It's a shame that Hawaii's recon laws are so strict or I would copy yours.

 

[jimster502]

POh ok I see, thanks..do you bottom out the rear with the mono leaf? I was looking at some drop leaf springs, also from aim(?), for 200 on eBay..they claim stock ride quality and a 3 in drop, but I don't know if I should try them out just to get rid of the blocks..

How's the turning like with 10 in wide front wheels? Do those wheels have the same backspacing as the oem explorers do?

 

[jimster502]

I used the exact same drop keys when Chassis Tech/AirBagit/AIM claimed they were "special" forged keys and charging $150 pair. Lucky for me I was on the MyST forum when Dan Long posted the #7 keys, 3" iron blocks and u-bolts for $75 plus USPS flat rate large box shipping. Reason I used the keys was I only got 1.5" by removing the bolts and the key flip seemed kind of hack to me at the time. Strange thing is the Moog K80065 1 5/8 degree kits I installed allowed me to get within 1/2 degree negative camber for my 2.75" front drop. I cut 1/2" off the stock front bump stops to keep from riding on them and preventing a harsh ride. I guess what everyone says is true, no two Explorer's are alike, especially when changing ride height in either direction. LOL

BTW, nice job Twisted1, your truck looks beautiful. It's a shame that Hawaii's recon laws are so strict or I would copy yours.

I really wanted to lower the front more since it's a bit higher than the rear by doing the flip but it does sound sketchy...unfortunately I didn't bother at least writing down the stock height from the front to see what drop I got with the bolts removed lol

 

[swshawaii]

Later Gen 1 ST's have lot's of rear bump stop clearance, even when lowered 3 inches.

Recently hauled 700 lbs. of junk and never bottomed out once driving very S-L-O-W.

 

[Twisted1]

I used the exact same drop keys when Chassis Tech/AirBagit/AIM claimed they were "special" forged keys and charging $150 pair. Lucky for me I was on the MyST forum when Dan Long posted the #7 keys, 3" iron blocks and u-bolts for $75 plus USPS flat rate large box shipping. Reason I used the keys was I only got 1.5" by removing the bolts and the key flip seemed kind of hack to me at the time. Strange thing is the Moog K80065 1 5/8 degree kits I installed allowed me to get within 1/2 degree negative camber for my 2.75" front drop. I cut 1/2" off the stock front bump stops to keep from riding on them and preventing a harsh ride. I guess what everyone says is true, no two Explorer's are alike, especially when changing ride height in either direction. LOL

BTW, nice job Twisted1, your truck looks beautiful. It's a shame that Hawaii's recon laws are so strict or I would copy yours.

Ironically mine came from the left coast a year ago. I've got all the paperwork from it spending it's life between Cali and Texas

 

[jimster502]

Dang, lucky..I really want to c notch my truck but I can't since it's my daily and my days off from work are apart..and my other truck is down due to intercooler leak

 

[Twisted1]

I was sceptical about the key flip myself but my end plan is either coil overs or swapping in a k frame from a crown victory or Mark VIII so I didn't see the point in buying parts to throw away this winter. Surprisingly it's not sketchy at all. It rides beautiful and absolutely no clunking or rattling. My rear axle does hit the bump stops but I am changing things around back there also. Eventually that will be on some sort of coils or an IRS swap but I can't really go much lower and keep it drivable. My front crossmember is only 3" off the ground and the rear spring hangers are about the same. I am swapping out the rear leafs soon to get it down another inch and then swap in a 1" block in place of the 2" I have now. I had my exhaust changed with a 3" turn down just in front of the rear axle because there wasn't enough room for my 2 1/2" pipe to fit between the axle and body/frame without getting pinched everytime I launched the truck

 

[jimster502]

Damn man, I wish I had the skills you have! Sounds like a great plan...well I'll try out the flip and buy some new cam bolts next weekend hopefully and see how much of a drop I can get..any issues with the 10 in wide wheels you have?l

 

[Twisted1]

I haven't had an issue aside from just barely rubbing the lower control arm if I try and go full lock turn. These are also 18" so I've got about 1/2" clearance between the wheel and upper ball joint. My buddy tried fitting 17x8" Mustang wheels and they touch his upper ball joint

 

[swshawaii]

jimster502, have you considered the Monroe 58617 load adjusting shocks? They will lift the rear a minimum of 1" and may prevent bottoming. Search the forum, MANY have used them with great results. May be an easy and quick solution for less than $80 per pair.

http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58617-Sensa-Trac-Adjusting-Absorber/dp/B000C53RXK