OK, I'll jump in... We can start checking for power along the way. If we need to get into checking switches afterwards, we can do that too. Lets start with the simple stuff though. A DMM is the best tool, and a 12V test light and a jumper with alligator clips will work in a pinch.
Start with Fuse #13 (15A), and fuse # 10 (7.5A). Check for power on both contacts of the fuse when it's lugged in and the key is on.
At the brake on-off switch on the brake pedal, check for power at the LG/R wire, and power at the LG wire only with the pedal depressed.
Check for power at the speed control servo harness on teh LG wire with the brake depressed. If there is power on the LG wire without pressing the brakes, the BOO switch is bad. (However, your brake lights would have been on the whole time too, so it's unlikely that's the problem.)
Okay, here is an update. I went for fuse #10, checked it and it was blown. So I thought, hey this might be easy, so I kept my fingers crossed and put in a new one. It worked, so I drove down to the parts store and everything worked fine. I then put the fuse cover on and the fuse blew. So I got another fuse and put that in to see what might be causing it to blow. First I tried the radio, then the fan and then the ac, everything seemed to be okay again. This morning I start up and still everythings good to go and I drive off to work. On the way to work I hit a bump on the freeway and that blew out the fuse again because the compass/temp went out as well as the cruise control. But I did notice that when I push the set button on the right side of the steering column I could see the cruise control light flash for a split second. I don't think thats significant but I thought I would mention it anyway.
So since just the simple task of placing the fuse cover back on would cause it to blow and also a bump on the freeway, do you think I just have a loose wire going to the fuse box or should I be looking at something else? How about a ground wire, is that located right there by the fuse box?
Now, at the brake pressure switch, check for 12V with the key in run on the GY/Y wire. With the connector plugged in, there should be no power to the BK/Y wire. If there is, teh SCDS is bad and sending the signal to the servo that the brakes are being pressed when they're not. To verify that's the problem, you can jumper the connector with a paper clip temporarily.
From here, it gets a bit tricky. Start with that, report back, and we'll go from there.
