Joining the bandwagon, my 4L OHV build

Xeek · March 30, 2011

yep. i was thinking the o2 would stick out really far down to, but when i put the cat on i noticed had to turn more towards the frame to bolt on, so its nicely tucked away now, wont scrape/snag on stuff easily.
how the hell do i tighten that top bolt??? im sure therell be an exhaust leak until i get it tightend
ill deff let you know if i need to replace them or not.

if it stops raining i could drive to autozone and make an intake. atleast i can pull in the garage some and finish the fan/cab lights.

hey mark, would the ignition wire on the radio work for the fan like you said? or the fuel pump fuse in the distrabution box? pull fuse, shove wire in, replace fuse on top? its the fuse box under the dash right?

Ronin8002 · March 30, 2011

You can get an adapter from Autozone that plugs into the fuse slot. It has a wire sticking out of it so you basically tap into that fuse spot and can have the original fuse in there and a new fuse at the same time. Should be a buck or two and make for a good connection.

Looks like this:

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...ft:en-us&tbs=isch:1&ei=xIaTTa2OKomw0QHLh8DNBw

Xeek · March 30, 2011

lol! i was wondering what the funky looking wire you sent me was!
thats what the tiny little 7.5A(i think) fuse is for then? i plug that thing in then take the fuse i pulled plus the one for the fan and add them both to that plug? omg! so much easier!
which battery fuse did you use? 20A or 30A?

Ronin8002 · March 30, 2011

Xeek said:
lol! i was wondering what the funky looking wire you sent me was!
thats what the tiny little 7.5A(i think) fuse is for then? i plug that thing in then take the fuse i pulled plus the one for the fan and add them both to that plug? omg! so much easier!
which battery fuse did you use? 20A or 30A?

Yep! makes it a lot easier. I don't know if the 1st Gens have any mini-fuses, but find one that is on a circuit that is hot when running and plug into that and you are good to go.

20A for the battery fuse.

Xeek · March 30, 2011

im not 100% sure, but i *think* the box under the dash is the smaller ones. i know the one in the engine bay uses frickin huge fuses. something like the fuel pump would be good tho?
i still want a switch tho, incase i need to turn it off as jd said. controller----2 wire switch----ignition wire?

ill change the battery fuse then. i put the 30A cause the book said max of 30A.

Maniak · March 30, 2011

The first gen uses the blade fuses (atc), but not the mini's (atm)..

And Yes, the radio circuit would be a good place to tap into. IIRC it works when the vehicle is in aux, or run, but not during start..

Course, that means its possible to run the fan when the truck is hot and in the aux position, but I don't see that as being bad.

~Mark

Ronin8002 · March 30, 2011

Xeek said:
im not 100% sure, but i *think* the box under the dash is the smaller ones. i know the one in the engine bay uses frickin huge fuses. something like the fuel pump would be good tho?
i still want a switch tho, incase i need to turn it off as jd said. controller----2 wire switch----ignition wire?

ill change the battery fuse then. i put the 30A cause the book said max of 30A.

Put the cutoff switch on the circuit with the mini-fuse adapter on it. That will cut power to the controller and shut down the fan when the switch is opened.

Xeek · March 30, 2011

yea i got home and saw they use the medium sized fuses. theres nothing in there to tap it into anyway, unless power goes through them even if you arnt using the listed function..

ill prob just go for the radio. this should be interesting trying to get all that in..... :/

not related to the engine, but since i finally have power back to the truck now that its running, i tested the parking lights to wire my cab lights up. if anyone cares, brown wire coming from the 194 bulb. works awesome

Xeek · March 31, 2011

anyone know an easy way to tighten that top cat bolt tucked between the frame?
i need to take it all back off an add a gasket too, between not having a gasket and the top bolt hand tight ive got a leak im sure

Maniak · March 31, 2011

Iirc, I jusr used a long extension and an impact wrench on that top bold. Its been years though, so i may not be remembering correctly.

~Mark

Xeek · March 31, 2011

well i got new bolts with nuts, so i need something on each side, one to hold still other to turn. long extensions sound like a good idea, i dont have enough tho lol
i dont get to use an impact either. my knuckles wish i has one lol

Xeek · March 31, 2011

another wiring question

just so i can get it done while the inside is semi apart.
after tapping the e-fan ignition wire into the radio ignition wire, i have the 2nd gen overhead console added, can i tap that into that wire also or would i be looking at resisitors for that like the ac wire you mentioned?

Xeek · March 31, 2011

hey ronin you have any idea why im getting error #2, fan not detected or fan speed low?
its all connected, except the sensor wire. i flipped the ac switch and the fan wont cut on

Ronin8002 · March 31, 2011

I think the sensor wire has to be hooked up.

Also, remember that the factory programming on that thing is based on the input from a Spal temp sensor. You need to program it for the ford sensor.

Xeek · March 31, 2011

ok ill try it. i figured it would turn on with an ac signal tho...

do you or anyone know what wire i want? light green/red stripe or black/white stripe? neither is a straight up ground wire in my book so im lost

Ronin8002 · March 31, 2011

You're not looking for the ground wire on the temp sensor (if there are 2 wires on there...can't remember). You need to tap into the positive one. Best way to test it is with a multimeter set on the continuity function. Put one lead on the wire and the other touching a chassis ground. If you get continuity, then that's the ground wire...so you want to tap into the other one.

Same thing with the A/C compressor wire. It needs to be the positive one. easy way to check is hit the ac switch with your voltmeter hooked up to one of the wires going to the compressor, the other wire on your voltmeter grounded. If you get a voltage reading, that's the right wire. If not, then you need to tap into the other wire.

Xeek · March 31, 2011

yea the ac i just put on a switch and back to the battery.
how do i test that? what setting? name/symbol?

Ronin8002 · March 31, 2011

Well it's usually says something like "CONT" or similar. Easy way to tell is if you touch the two leads together it will beep or something.

If you don't have that just use DC Volt setting and backprobe each wire going into the harness with the other lead of the voltmeter touching a chassis ground

Xeek · March 31, 2011

yea i looked it up on youtube. mine doesnt beep but i got the right wire now. ON and engine running, still get error #2 fan not found or fan speed error. im sick of going out in the cold and rain, so i guess its gonna wait until tomorrow.

edit: and it still doesnt turn on with the ac wire on...

Ronin8002 · April 1, 2011

Hmmm. Some things to try/think about:

-Wire up the fan directly to your battery to make sure it works right.

-Check the wires/connections on the harness from the controller to the fan to make sure they are good

-I know when it gets input from the A/C wire it takes 15 seconds before it reacts to the input. When you turn the A/C off it will take 30 seconds before the fan slows down again.

-Make sure the A/C wire that you tap into has +12v going through it when the A/C is powered on.

-Try doing the programming function and see if it clears up the problem.

Joining the bandwagon, my 4L OHV build

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