looking for help to fix brake problems

[jreeder]

Hey, I’ve been having brake problems and I was hoping yall could help me figure out what is causing them. (She's a '92 2wd, 182k)

Symptoms
-shudder when braking at high speeds (40<)
-squeak when brakes are applied, and when let off (at low speeds, not high pitched at all, sounds more like a rubber or plastic squeak)
-she seems to “twitch” when slowly idling up to a light with brakes applied (not an engine twitch, brake twitch)
-brake pad dust builds up fast on front wheels
-occasional clunk when finishing a stop

For whatever reason last time I worked on my brakes I replaced one rotor but not the other. Neither are that grooved, but the older one is obviously worn more. I plan on replacing the older one, should I also get the other side turned so they are both flat so start with? Pads are still thick also.

About the clunk, I checked the radius arm bushings but they look fine to me, not worn at all. I tried pulling and pushing on the arms and they pop slightly, does this mean they are bad?

I’ve never check the rear brakes or worked on them. What should I look for to make sure they are working properly?

Finally, the last two times I’ve worked on my front brakes I found the thin metal sheets that lay on the pads to be either broken off (still stuck to the pad) or all bent up. What does that mean?

 

[jreeder]

newer rotor


old one


bent up metal


driver's side bushing (trunk side)


passenger's side bushing (engine side)


driver's side


passenger's side

Is there a reason the driver's side and passenger's side bushings are not the same?

 

[BP_93explorer]

I believe the passenger side bushing wears faster due to heat. They were probably replaced at different times. White is usually the polyurethane kind and the other rubber. At least my poly's are white. Can't help with the brakes, I can't even figure out my own brake problem.

 

[mawrazen]

Same exact problem! After paying a local shop to redo my brakes($400). *******s

I brought the 1994 EX to a supposed "brake proffesional" due to premate wear on one side, and a pulsating soft brake pedal when coming to a stop. They replaced 2 rotors one at a time during the process, I had to wait for the parts to be deliverd each time. It was a long day at "Precision Tune" and they didn't fix the problem.

They told me I was .

I ended up replaced the calipers and brake pads myself 6 months later. (This could be the problem you are having with the premature wear)

Try removing the wires from one of the front ABS sensors. They can be easily disconnected at the harness that connects the ABS sensor. (this is a test to see if it is ABS related) This procedure will couse the ABS light to remain on and bypass the ABS system. (I've been towing and stopping for a year without a problem!) Still be careful in the rain and loose surfaces if you bypass the ABS.

Good Luck! Keep us informed. DIY!

 

[jreeder]

Today I replaced the old rotor and turned the newer one, and the shuddering has and twitching has gone away. Still have the bad squeak though, but I think it is a combo of the radius arm bushings and the rear brakes? I can rock the car when it's parked and hear something from the rear which sounds like the brakes. I checked the bushings again and they look fine but they appear to not be tight enough because there are marks around the edges like they move when the front end moves. I'm replacing them and doing the rear brakes tomorrow.

Also, how important is the double-sided clip that keeps the outer pad (front) connected to the caliper? Mine is completely broken off, so it only stays on from the caliper pressure. It still has the tabs to keep it in place though.

 

[TB3]

Hi this is Tommy (New member). Here are a few helpfull hints. 1 Does anyone ride with one foot on brake,other on gas? Just a few pds. of pressure will push pads in and make the rotor hotter than need to be. 2 Driving thru standing water can warp roters causing the shudder.3 When replacing pads check the cooler fins(holes all around rotor)for mud. Clean all the fins with screw driver.4 Make sure to white grease caliper contact points with housing so it will slide as they wear.
Now on back brakes wear safety glasses and dust mask. They make Brake clean, spray shoes and all 2 eliminate dust. Always remember they have 2 different shoes for each side and short shoe goes on front. Need anymore help with brakes other than ABS problems let me know. (Left Midas before ABS came out, Sorry) Tommy!

 

[Mickelsons]

Check your back brakes, and make sure they are good and adjusted up correctly and the auto adjusters are working, if the back brakes are not working correctly or coming on strong enough it will put an excessive load on the front brakes causing premature wear and brake dust along with extra heat which will warp the rotors, I also would recommend having a quality machine shop turn your rotors even brand new, I have seen new rotors that are not 100% true.
The clip that holds your brake pad to the caliper if not in position correctly will cause some brake noise.
Hope this helps.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Try removing the wires from one of the front ABS sensors. They can be easily disconnected at the harness that connects the ABS sensor. (this is a test to see if it is ABS related) This procedure will couse the ABS light to remain on and bypass the ABS system. (I've been towing and stopping for a year without a problem!) Still be careful in the rain and loose surfaces if you bypass the ABS.

You could just pull the ABS fuse correct? I did this once because the ABS was kicking in for no reason, I pulled the fuse for a day and then reinstalled and it had solved itself.

Good Luck

 

[mawrazen]

Thanks for the Idea!