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How to: Make your 99-01 V8 run cooler

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by Turdle, August 24, 2017.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. Centaurus5.0

    Centaurus5.0 Well-Known Member

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    The ones for $40 are that version.
     
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  3. vroomzoomboom

    vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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    turbo's arent too hard to do. superchargers are pretty easy as well :D
     
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  4. Centaurus5.0

    Centaurus5.0 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: August 31, 2017
  5. Dono

    Dono 347 V8 Limited turbo Elite Explorer

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    I came across a high flow thermostat that FlowKooler recommends as a companion to their high flow water pump (Item # 1666) that Centaurus5.0 posted up.
    FlowKooler Robertshaw Series High Performance Thermostats (item # 330-180)
    There are some reviews that both of these should be done as a pair.
     
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  6. umr_engnr

    umr_engnr New Member

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    I was trying to figure out why Ford changed to a single row radiator and then it hit me that the change to a plastic fan seems to have occured around the same time. Plastic fan in around 1999 and the change to a single row radiator happened in 2000.

    In my research, it seems the plastic fan is supposed to move more air. So if the thermal requirements didn't change but the new fan design moves more air, I wonder if that facilitated the move from a 2-row radiator to a 1-row radiator? Able to meet the same requirements cheaper. Maybe the changes were planned together but rolled out separately due to supply chain considerations or to ensure the metal fan never made it onto the single row radiator vehicles which would have resulted in worse thermal management.

    If that is the case, then the best option seems to be to use the older 2-row radiator and the plastic fan.

    I was looking at my plastic fan and it appears that the plastic is molded around a metal center section so even if there are cracks between blades, each blade is still held tightly to the metal center frame. Makes me wonder if the plastic fans really do explode as everyone seems to fear.
     
  7. BUXTER

    BUXTER Elite Explorer

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    - When my Plastic Fan cracked I found Plastic 7 Blade, 9 blade, 11 Blade (5.0), 1ea 12 blade & an all Metal Blade replacement.

    - I ended up going with 1ea 16 inch 12 Amp aftermarket Electric Fan triggered by Temp Controller & homemade Metal Shroud on my 1 Row Rad + 2ea 4inch Spal Fans on 2ea Tranny Coolers triggered by AC Compressor - Deleted Tranny Cooler in Rad - My 1 Row Rad cooling great at Idle w/ AC in very hot recent S.C. Temps - AC working exceptionally well.

    - Added a little flap to bottom of Radiator Air Dam & staggered it fwd where the stock curved internal Flap aims at AC Condenser & my added Flap aims at Radiator.

    - In addition to less restrictive Air Flow another advantage of 1 Row Rad is u have option of mounting Electric Fan on FRONT of Homemade Shroud for tons of clearance as I did my first 14 Inch 10 Amp Electric Fan - I staggered my current 16 Inch 12 Amp Electric Fan on backside of Homemade Shroud toward Pass side over Stock for additional Water Pump Clearance - & Yes u cd just whack the Threaded boss for Fan clutch off ur new Water Pump for all the clearance u wd ever need.

    - No probs w/ stock 130 Amp Alternator.

    METAL FAN SHROUD ON 5.0 LITRE

    RADIATOR AIR DAM
     
    Last edited: June 24, 2019
  8. BruceExploder

    BruceExploder Active Member

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    So this is why my metal fan 98 is alot hotter than my Plastic fan 99?
     
  9. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    Both of my 98's had plastic fans, and they both run fairly cool, also with the full thickness radiators. If your engine runs warm at all, it should be from blockages in front of the radiator, or an issue with the fan clutch or thermostat etc.
     
  10. BruceExploder

    BruceExploder Active Member

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    My 98 stays about 210 but the 99 around 185-190. I think the radiator maybe was replaced in the 99 at some point and the 98 has the original radiator I am just guessing.

    Question though I noticed there is alot of cracking in the Plastic fan of the 99 even though it stays cooler. Is that going to cause an issue at some point?

    IMG_20190625_201307.jpg
     
  11. umr_engnr

    umr_engnr New Member

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    There is a metal bracket that mounts to the fan clutch. The plastic blades appear to be molded around this bracket. There appears to be holes in the metal so the plastic is around and through the bracket. You can see the darker areas in the center fan section in your picture. This is why I think that the cracks won't compromise the fan integrity as much as people say. I would imagine since everyone seems to have the cracks and surely the majority are not replacing fans regularly that there should be a lot of cases of exploding fans.

    They are only $30 on RockAuto so I'll probably replace mine anyways since I have it out. I would like to hear if anyone at all has actually had a plastic fan failure.
     
  12. umr_engnr

    umr_engnr New Member

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    I searched around for a little bit and found a user in this thread that had some failures:

    Check Your Fan Blade!!!!!

    Post #54:
    But that was all I could find. Doesn't seem to be a huge concern unless they are severely cracked. Some people were running ones with cracks running down the blades. I would definitely want to change that.
     
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  13. radman

    radman Elite Explorer

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    It seems that there is a misconception about using a cooler range thermostat to make your engine run cooler. The thermostat is a valve and it is fully open at or near it's advertised temperature setting. Once open fully it will allow coolant to pass through no matter how hot it becomes. Overheating can not be cured by lowering the thermostat value if there is an over riding cause of of it.
     
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  14. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    The thermostat doesn't solve other issues of over heating, but it does directly control the low limit of where the coolant temperature runs.

    These trucks have enough cooling ability to run well under 150 degrees in most places, much lower in colder times of the year. So the T'stat should be chosen for what low end range you want the coolant at. That's easy to decide, if you are way way up North with -30 Winters, you need at least a 180* unit. At temps of zero or more a 160 might be enough heat for you during the Winter, but the PCM sometimes throws a code when the temps don't get higher than that 150 range. I don't know where that threshold is, but it gave me a code every day during Winter, while my temps stayed below 140*.

    A 192-195 is excessively hot IMO, for any climate, as it just pushes the whole system closer to being too hot. I like the 175 range for normal driving, and a 180* unit gets it close to that.
     
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  15. Dono

    Dono 347 V8 Limited turbo Elite Explorer

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    I am using a 180 for summer, and think I'll need a 192 for winter. The 180 will probably be too cold for good heat in the cabin. I think Ford went with the 192 for better emissions and for winter drive4 comfort.

    For summer, I think 180 is plenty hot. I have my 180 stat, and my fan turning on at about 195. Interestingly, sy highway speeds I dont hold 180 on warmer days, I'm more like 195. This tells me the fan is needed even at highway speeds. Not sure it I'm drawing the correct conclusion, but it's interesting.
     

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