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Modify AWD programming?

Can anyone shed some light on the torque steer compensation mode? It is disabled on the SHO, Fusion Sport, and my 2018 XLT 4WD. My XLT did not have soft stop or pull drift compensation turned on either like on the SHO and Fusion Sport, just active return to center.

When I enabled soft stop and drift pull, I noticed my XLT assist at low speeds or when stopped, is reduced.

I have not tried turning on torque steer compensation, how does it work and what does it feel like? My Cobalt SS Turbo needs that, over 300 hp and FWD.

To answer the OP, the PTU works all the time but the RDU coupler has to lock or slip the clutches. More RWD bias on our AWD systems may roast the PTU fluid even faster and or wear out the RDU clutch coupler unit slightly faster.
 



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I'm not quite following your post Phil. What is there to "get used to"? What takes the enjoyment out driving it? I've driven plenty of RWD cars in my lifetime and I have no issues with the handling of the Explorer. I personally feel it is a great driving vehicle. Rumour has it the 2020 will be RWD with AWD availability.

Peter

If you're not quite following, then there's really no sense in explaining, as you'll never get it. FWD is a completely different feeling than a RWD, and you should know that since you've owned plenty of RWD cars.

I like the feeling of the car being "pushed" instead of being "pulled"...about as simple as I can put it.
 






If you're not quite following, then there's really no sense in explaining, as you'll never get it. FWD is a completely different feeling than a RWD, and you should know that since you've owned plenty of RWD cars.

I like the feeling of the car being "pushed" instead of being "pulled"...about as simple as I can put it.
One of the advantages stated when FWD came out was it was better to be pulled though than pushed.though a curve. I also founbd it handled better in Winter driving. I have no issues with the current setup. It feels solidly planted on the road. Once you're driving it shouldn't really matter. I guess the biggest difference might be when starting off. I guess it all comes down to a personal preference and I respect yours. My last RWD vehicle was a 1998 Olds so it's been a while.;)

Peter
 






I enabled Torque Steer Compensation as well as Active Nibble Control. I couldn't really tell a difference in low amplitude/high frequency bumps because the roads here are really bad or smooth. But I could feel a difference in the torque steer compensation, especially during hard launches or powering out of the apex of a turn. It's only slightly noticeable but the steering is doing something to counteract the torque steer.

I noticed the Fusion Sports have everything enabled except active nibble and torque steer compensation. My 2014 SHO had active nibble and torque steer comp turned on at the factory, but not active return / soft end stops / drift pull compensation. I think the newer Explorers/D3 vehicles have an updated EPAS system along with the other Fords, so they can do more.

The Navigator and MKZ were the same as the Fusion Sport (no active nibble or or torque steer comp).
 






Has anyone been able to find definitions for the different modes? Like, which settings are modified and how that affects results?
 






Coming from my ss camaro, as soon as i got back into an explorer, i felt as if it was a fwd car. It takes some getting used to after driving rwd for the last 6 years.
 






I have driven mine in sand mode for tens of thousands of miles, currently over 100K miles on QuickSilver. However my PTU whines as speed increases, does it have anything to do with sand mode? Not sure. Probably has more to do with not changing my PTU fluid until 60K miles, it was bad, very bad. Black, thick, chunky and horrible smelling. I should have changed it at 40K as reccomended by MANY owners here but was lulled into complacentcy by the 'water cooled PTU' theory that '13 and up models were less prone to PTU fluid degredation. Change the fluid by 50K folks...

The transfer case fluid, or PTU fluid, is a critical fluid in a critical drivetrain component. Those should be considered weakest links in any vehicle, and made a top priority for care.

I'd replace that fluid not long after being new, just after the break in period when all fluids should be changed(if you care to keep the vehicle for a long(long) time). Most wear of all parts happens in the first 30 minutes of use, to about the 1000 mile mark. I appreciate OEM development, parts, and engineer design and intentions. But fluid life is not the best in the first period of use, from when new to the first fluid change. I suggest replacing all fluids early in the life of all vehicles, with the best fluid you are willing to put into the vehicle. I prefer Amsoil, but there are many great brands available, including Motorcraft.

The PTU fluid should be a big priority fluid, replace often to keep it clean(transparent), as needed depending on usage. A mail vehicle should change all fluids every year as a severe duty example.
 












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