Need some help

[Harder93]

i have the chance to get a 78 or 79 f150 dana 44 complete for my 93 explorer for 100 bucks from a friend of mine, what i need to know is how to do the swap effectivly and cheap. the explorer is my only car and plan on wheeling it relatively hard, thanks, Blair

 

[Slowlyvverot]

James Duff makes all the parts needed to swap a D44 into your Ex minus the steering. Check out their website. And plan on upgrading lots of parts in the 44 if you want to wheel it hard and drive it too. This will probably not be cheap. Keep in mind the d44 will be full width so you will need a wider rear axle too.

Read some of the threads in the SAS section for ideas.

 

[Foxracin]

Check out my build thread. You want to do the same thing Im doing. Wheel it hard and still daily drive it.

 

[Harder93]

Since I'm working at Dairy Queen and only getting about 700 a month plus having to spend on gas and insurance im at probably 300 for a month i can save up... what would be a good recomendation for lift maybe keeping the ttb, i dont mind it too much and dont have a whole lot of money. Thanks for the replies

 

[Harder93]

Also looking at custom lifts maybe mix and matching forgot to throw that in there, thanks

 

[4x4junkie]

If you're on a tight budget, Tuff Country makes a fairly decent lift for the $$$, though it's not the most durable when wheeled hard.

Mixing & matching used parts certainly can save you a lot more though (and maybe get you better parts in the process). Components from Skyjacker and James Duff are pretty much top-notch. Avoid anything using the dreaded "drop-plate" bracket extension for the passengerside, these are known to interfere with the front diff housing, even busting it open on occasion.

 

[Harder93]

If I do decide to mix and match is there a list of everything I would need possibly parts that would interchange with other vehicles like leaf packs or coils?

 

[Harder93]

Any ideas for an inexpensive custom lift? One that can hold up well?

 

[Abe Lincoln]

if your thinking about cutting down a 44 i wouldnt use a 78 or 79 i belive they have a one piece c and wedges to mount the knuckle and radius arms

 

[Harder93]

If i were to put a full width up front i would get a full width 9" for the rear. Cutting down to me is more costly and less effective

 

[rhauf]

If i were to put a full width up front i would get a full width 9" for the rear. Cutting down to me is more costly and less effective

I put full width axles in my '91.

leaf sprung in the front and the back. it was easy.

how big of tires do you plan to run?
how much lift do you want?
are you going to add lockers?
do you intend to do fender trimming?

I think these questions have considerable impact on what style of lift to use (for instance, if your going to run lockers, stiffer suspension with leaves is acceptable, if your not going to run lockers, you will want more flex)

here's the build thread for my '91. i did end up making a couple changes. Both traction bars failed, so don't copy that design! (turns out the axle moves side to side a little, which i didn't account for, so they broke. building a new one with a hinge in the middle) also i ended up running stock first gen explorer "rear" leaves in the front. came out perfect. net lift is around 5.5". springs are over axles.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=293768

at least look at the pictures. you'll get some ideas.

full width is best! (also allows you to run non offset rims which is nice)

 

[Harder93]

I'm looking for about 4 to 6 inches of lift I dont want to trim the fenders if i dont need to and i would like to spool the rear and lock the front and anywhere from 32 - 35 inch tires, I am 18 and this would be my first project with moderate experiance do you think I would be anle to tackle the job?

 

[alakers]

Man ill never be one to discourage. But swapping an axle is a whole lot to take on with little experience, and a low budget. It really is a great idea, regardless of the complications associate with it. There are plenty of threads on here about this kind of thing, as well as each smaller issue (eg steering). You might wait to save up some money though. See you can save up enough and forsee what your expenses are, although, there are alot of hidden expenses that will nickle and dime you to death.
I think im doing the same thing in a few months, let us know if you decide to do it and how it goes. goodluck sir !

 

[Harder93]

I'm definately planning on saving before doing it and buying all the parts before hand to start modifying them so its a mostly bolt it kit when it comes down to it my family and friends all have quite a bit of experiance so i can always get some help from them.

 

[Harder93]

What is the best thread on here for a full width front a rear swap with pics and most detailed? I'm starting to get the money coming in so I wan't to start on this. Thanks,

 

[Foxracin]

My thead covers it all. With the James Duff parts its pretty much bolt on.

 

[Harder93]

James Duff is a little out of budget though... I would like to fab some parts on my own too. I have read your entire thread it was a lot of help I'm just trying to get every angle at it as possible before I go ahead and do it.

 

[rhauf]

James Duff is a little out of budget though... I would like to fab some parts on my own too. I have read your entire thread it was a lot of help I'm just trying to get every angle at it as possible before I go ahead and do it.

The way i did it was the cheapest and easier way to do a full width solid axle swap. i used leaf springs. did you look at my thread? i think most of the relevant information is there. and i'm here to ask questions if you like.

i think as a minimum you should have budgeted (after purchasing the axles) a minimum $500 for extra unforseen expenses (U joints, brakes, gear oil, wheel bearings, grade 8 bolts etc) in addition to that, you will need a decent welder. you will probably also need to modify your drive shafts (if you have this it can be very expensive, i did mine myself)


when you say you want "a spooled rear and locked front" what exactly do you mean? are you thinking of a difference between locked and spooled? or did you mean you want a locker?

i think it would also be advisable to have help from somebody who has done an axle swap before. its not an easy task, takes a lot of planning, quite a bit of knowledge and axles are heavy and you will want a second person to aid in installation.

 

[Harder93]

Yes I read your thread and it is the most relevant to what I want to do and model after. From what I understand spooled is always engaged and lockers disengage around corners I may be wrong however. I have a couple people I could ask for help a friend who swapped a 44/60 onto a Cherokee and coworkers. As well as my family is pretty good with this kind of thing. We have a welder and the 500 is what I'm saving up for after axles. I'm hoping to find some already where I want them to be geared.
Do you have a list and prices for everything you needed for your swap?

 

[rhauf]

Yes I read your thread and it is the most relevant to what I want to do and model after. From what I understand spooled is always engaged and lockers disengage around corners I may be wrong however. I have a couple people I could ask for help a friend who swapped a 44/60 onto a Cherokee and coworkers. As well as my family is pretty good with this kind of thing. We have a welder and the 500 is what I'm saving up for after axles. I'm hoping to find some already where I want them to be geared.
Do you have a list and prices for everything you needed for your swap?

ahh lockers.. yes, "locked" in my mind usually references always locked, like a spool or welded. where as a locker (automatic locker like detroit, aussie, or lock-rite. or manual locker like an ARB) is something that is unlocked for normal driving conditions and locks (automatically or manually) when required.

anyway, a basic run down for things i spent money on.. just off the top of my head, at least.

axles $1200
leaf springs (junk yard explorer rear leafs) $100/pair
adapter U joints $60
various steel for axle swap $50
welder wire and gas $50
gear oil for axles $40
grease to re-pack bearings, and for U joints etc $10
grade-8 bolts and nylock nuts for leaf springs $20
Drill bit $10
used tires $500
rims $200

those were all necessary items, the gear down and lockers were:
lock-rite for front diff $350
detroit locker for rear diff $600
5.38 gear sets about $400 total
carrier for front diff to accept 5.38 gears $150

keep in mind i was creative and re-used the old shocks, brake lines, etc. bump stops were salvaged ones left over from something else, so i saved some cost there.
also those prices are all estimates from my memory, and some things may be slightly cheaper for half ton than one ton as well (gears lockers)
what size tire do you plan to run?