Rebuilt A4LD acts like E Brake is on in R,OD,1,2

[Sno Pny]

Hello all,

I've seen a lot of great help on this forum, but I haven't found a solution for my problem.
6 months ago I had a 87 A4LD rebuilt by a transmission shop. It sat until I had to put it in for the snow season. I just installed it along with a new converter. Now it acts like the brake is being applied when in Reverse, 1st, 2nd, and D. In OD it seems to move normal.

In reverse you can get it to barely move bringing the rpms up against the converter as if the brake is applied. When you let off the gas, the vehicle rocks freely back and forth slightly.
In neutral it acts normal.
In 1st,2nd, &D it will move forward but again like the brake is holding it back (like reverse) Reminds me of power braking.
In OD it seems to move forward without any "brake effect". So I know it's not a real brake problem or a TC problem. I don't know if it will shift because I don't want to damage anything by driving it. (Or have to walk home.)
Checked the fluid level,OK.
Have not connected the OD connector because it is 2 wire and the 88 BroncoII that it is in is three wire. I am told that this wouldn't be my problem though.
I called the transmission shop guy and he said the it could be something sticking in the valve body because a rebuilt doesn't like sitting around w/o fluid. (in other words, it is my fault, no warranty)
Any help would be appreciated. I'm really hoping that it is something dumb that I did that is easily fixed.

 

[transman304]

Doesn't sound like anything on your end. To me it is either a sprag in upside down/locking in the wrong direction or check ball/balls missing or out of place. Sorry about the shops way of handling this for you. Just know that there are still shops and techs out there that still care abut the jobs that they do and have the integrity to do the right thing and take pride in the work. A true passion not just a paycheck. I wish you luck and I am here for any questions you may have.
Brad

 

[arco777]

Check the band adjustment. If the bands are adjusted too tight, you will get similar effects. One time I was doing a band adjustment and forgot to back the adjusters out after running them in, and the trans acted similar to yours.

If the valve body is truly needing attention, it is not too much trouble to pull it yourself and check that all the valves and spools are free. They should have left some fluid in the valve body during assembly. You will need a replacement valve body and separator plate gasket, but no special tools other than a torque wrench. Search the valve body rebuild diary thread on the forum for more info.

If you're removing the valve body, consider installing a shift correction kit. I installed the SK A4LD-Jr kit with great results. The big benefit in your situation (besides benefits of a shift kit) is that the instructions show how everything goes in the valve body, and you can correct any mistakes the trans builder made.

 

[Sno Pny]

Thanks transman and arco777, at this point any help and encouragement is appreciated. I'll try to check the bands this afternoon/evening and keep my fingers crossed.
BTW, what are the chances of the 2 solenoid valve body from the old original trans fitting and working properly in the 1 solenoid replacement trans? If it will work I'll definitely put in a shift kit.
(The last one of those that I did was a 74 Pinto I think.)

Thanks all

Steve

 

[Sno Pny]

Thanks to arco777, you get the Gold Star. You nailed it!

I checked the intermediate band (towards the tailshaft) and it was 2 turns out after 10 ft lbs.. However the OD band was only 3/4 turn out. Needless to say, after a test drive, I am one happy camper. Shifts great, I now have engine braking in 1st, and enough pull to back up out of the drive, I can't wait to plow some snow.

You guys are the greatest, I hope Santa puts something great in your stockings.

Steve

 

[arco777]

Thanks for updating the thread. Glad it worked out.

 

[transman304]

That is great! Good call on band adjust Arco777.