Replacing cam position sensor on a 93-95 explorer 4.0L ohv,has anyone done one

[Pete Deering]

Replacing cam position sensor on a 93-95 explorer 4.0L ohv,has anyone done one. Do you need to remove the manifolds?

 

[410Fortune]

I remove the upper intake plenum to access the OHV cam synchronizer yes
Good time for new upper intake O rings and EGR O ring
Also it can be helpful to remove the two nuts on the transmission mount and jack up the back of the transmission/t case slightly, this angles the engine a bit to give you more room to work
I have to replace those sensors and synchros more then I would like!! They can be a PITA
Some of the aftermarket ones have had a hard time fitting the engine so be VERY careful when you replace the synchro, makes sure the new one matches the old one 110%%%%

 

[Pete Deering]

I remove the upper intake plenum to access the OHV cam synchronizer yes
Good time for new upper intake O rings and EGR O ring
Also it can be helpful to remove the two nuts on the transmission mount and jack up the back of the transmission/t case slightly, this angles the engine a bit to give you more room to work
I have to replace those sensors and synchros more then I would like!! They can be a PITA
Some of the aftermarket ones have had a hard time fitting the engine so be VERY careful when you replace the synchro, makes sure the new one matches the old one 110%%%%

I remove the upper intake plenum to access the OHV cam synchronizer yes
Good time for new upper intake O rings and EGR O ring
Also it can be helpful to remove the two nuts on the transmission mount and jack up the back of the transmission/t case slightly, this angles the engine a bit to give you more room to work
I have to replace those sensors and synchros more then I would like!! They can be a PITA
Some of the aftermarket ones have had a hard time fitting the engine so be VERY careful when you replace the synchro, makes sure the new one matches the old one 110%%%%

I remove the upper intake plenum to access the OHV cam synchronizer yes
Good time for new upper intake O rings and EGR O ring
Also it can be helpful to remove the two nuts on the transmission mount and jack up the back of the transmission/t case slightly, this angles the engine a bit to give you more room to work
I have to replace those sensors and synchros more then I would like!! They can be a PITA
Some of the aftermarket ones have had a hard time fitting the engine so be VERY careful when you replace the synchro, makes sure the new one matches the old one 110%%%%

Did you get a installation tool with the new synchronize unit. Or do you need one to do a installation?

 

[410Fortune]

I have the cam synchro tool set for all of these ford engines
Usually the new synchro comes with the alignment tool
In 95 the synch is aligned through a slight glass window
They can be a royal PITA
My friend built a cam synchro puller tool slide hammer style so we can yank them out of the blocks
Some of the aftermarket synchros for the 4.0 can get hung up on the little aluminum arm that retains the oil pump drive shaft in the block. Its really fun when this happens
This is why we have gotten into the practice of removing the full upper plenum, disconnect the PCM wiring harness and jack up the transfer case to make room
So you can see what you are doing and have room to work
I also have a flying creeper that helps with this job thank goodness Im not getting younger and many of the trucks I deal with are lifted and full size

There are at least 3 different ohv cam synchros
Some drop into the engine further then others

I have heard you can successfully use the 96 3 wire cam sychronizer in place of the complex 94-95 glass window style
93 engines did not have the sych unless they were CA emissions
I REALLY like the non EGR no cam synch 93 PCM to run these old ohv pre 96 obd engines
Or just do a OBD2 conversion and switch to the plastic intake ohv

Which one do you have?
There are several recent threads on this!! = good news!

 

[Pete Deering]

I have the cam synchro tool set for all of these ford engines
Usually the new synchro comes with the alignment tool
In 95 the synch is aligned through a slight glass window
They can be a royal PITA
My friend built a cam synchro puller tool slide hammer style so we can yank them out of the blocks
Some of the aftermarket synchros for the 4.0 can get hung up on the little aluminum arm that retains the oil pump drive shaft in the block. Its really fun when this happens
This is why we have gotten into the practice of removing the full upper plenum, disconnect the PCM wiring harness and jack up the transfer case to make room
So you can see what you are doing and have room to work
I also have a flying creeper that helps with this job thank goodness Im not getting younger and many of the trucks I deal with are lifted and full size

There are at least 3 different ohv cam synchros
Some drop into the engine further then others

I have heard you can successfully use the 96 3 wire cam sychronizer in place of the complex 94-95 glass window style
93 engines did not have the sych unless they were CA emissions
I REALLY like the non EGR no cam synch 93 PCM to run these old ohv pre 96 obd engines
Or just do a OBD2 conversion and switch to the plastic intake ohv

Which one do you have?
There are several recent threads on this!! = good news!

I have the slight glass synco. The synch I brought state in the paperwork it came with a tool; but when I received the part it was not with it. So I ordered the plastic caps tool. I just look at the part and the plastic cap tool can not be used on the slight glass synch. I have a 90 degree connector on it.

 

[410Fortune]

96 Camshaft Synchronizer sucessfuly installed in my 94

1995 Explorer 4.0 cam position sensor/synchronizer.



The 95 sight glass synchronizer does not use an alignment tool

I am looking for the link that has instructions for mounting/aligning the sight glass style sensor

 

[Pete Deering]

DOD you have a hard time removing upper maniford the egr tube. Is there a trick to remove the upper maniford from The egr tube?

 

[410Fortune]

yes
I lift the intake up and over the fuel rail double stud intake bolts
Trust me it will go up and over
This is why you have to move the PCM wiring harness and ground wire....give the intake room to come up and over
then you can twist the whole upper intake right off of the EGR large green O ring
A large screwdriver / small pry bar can help, just be careful where you place it
Install is same as removal, twist upper plenum down onto the intake studs and onto the egr tube at the same time it will go
I use vaseline to lube up a NEW egr O ring and the upper plenum slides right back into place.
No need to mess with the EGR metal hose and bolt connections IMO

 

[Pete Deering]

Thanks for the infor. I Received the new synchro today . Going to start on replacement tomorrow. My feeling is; its just like replacing a distributor. And final setting is like setting points. On one of my cars, I just replace the distributor with the point all set. Some of procedure I read, is like setting points. The new facts are 1. Set the number 1 to tdc 26 degree pass. I am going to look at the syncho window, mark a mark. Mark the syncho connector origination and remove the hold down bolt and washer and remove the syncho and mark the final origination. Then I am going to reverse the procedure. I purchased a otc tool that was call out in the service manual, to make the final adjustment. Rotating the body to there voltage. I uses a test light a made for my point. ( instead of a volt meter). Hope all goes well. Thanks for your Help

 

[410Fortune]

Heck yes when the cam sensor on the engine is still in decent shape and has not wiped itself out then you can do it that way
On the newer trucks (96+) when the sensor starts to go out the bearing will develop slop and the flag will wipe out the sensor and itself, so when we go to replace them there is no reference marks

This is exactly like installing a distributor, a dying art!!
Keep up the good work and let us know how it goes!!

 

[Pete Deering]

I have a stuck synchro. From the pass front wheel well, I removed the two connectors to access the synchro, sprayed penetrating oil on the mount. My question what the trick to free up the synchro? I am thinking of making up a tool to hit the side of the synchro to get it to move. I try two long 1/2 extension but it slips. What tool did your friend make up

 

[Pete Deering]

Heck yes when the cam sensor on the engine is still in decent shape and has not wiped itself out then you can do it that way
On the newer trucks (96+) when the sensor starts to go out the bearing will develop slop and the flag will wipe out the sensor and itself, so when we go to replace them there is no reference marks

This is exactly like installing a distributor, a dying art!!
Keep up the good work and let us know how it goes!!

 

[Pete Deering]

How do I get the new syncho to drop in. I think its the gears?

 

[massacre]

Rotate the unit while dropping it in worked for me. The gears are helical

 

[Pete Deering]

I rotated the crankshaft a little back and fore and it did not drop in. The syncho shaft is rotating but will not drop in. Any ideas I can do to get it to go in

 

[massacre]

Are you rotating the housing?

 

[410Fortune]

yes I have an idea
The aftermarket parts SUCK
WE have had a few that simply WOULD NOT FIT the ohv due to clearance issues with the little aluminum arm that holds the oil pump shaft in place

Does the old one fit like perfectly?
If so compare the two side by side, use a micrometer
Spent 4 days messing with some aftermarket cam synchros, tried 3 different ones, even grind the tip down on one and made a puller tool to get a stuck synchro back out.

We bought a Ford part instead of the richporter / duralast / unit they sell at auto parts stores..........problem solved

 

[Pete Deering]

yes I have an idea
The aftermarket parts SUCK
WE have had a few that simply WOULD NOT FIT the ohv due to clearance issues with the little aluminum arm that holds the oil pump shaft in place

Does the old one fit like perfectly?
If so compare the two side by side, use a micrometer
Spent 4 days messing with some aftermarket cam synchros, tried 3 different ones, even grind the tip down on one and made a puller tool to get a stuck synchro back out.

We bought a Ford part instead of the richporter / duralast / unit they sell at auto parts stores..........problem solved

 

[Pete Deering]

I try re-install the original unit and that did not go. I look down the opening and I can see the oil pump shaft one side is close. So today I made sure the syncho was lined up I try to put so weight on the syncho while I rotated the crank, which did not work. As I rotated the body the half stay in placed

 

[massacre]

Sorry you’re having such a hard time OP.
Mine went in pretty easy, got lucky I guess. That area of the engine bay is such a giant PITA to get to. Good luck, hope you get it sorted