Lets talk Wheelbase

[Burns]

Starting a new project and i want to do this one right. Im building a big crawler out of a explorer. Basicaly it will look like TDavis Zuk but a little bigger.

I have two options as of now. If there are other ideas please go ahead and tell me. My only thing is that it has to be a Explorer when i start.


Option #1

I can get a 91 4dr and chop it behind the rear doors and have the axle as far up as i can keep it and keep a wheel base of around 130 or so.

Option #2

I can get a 01 Sport for dirt cheap. ($50) and chop it behind the doors and have a wheel base of about 115-125. Not 100% on that one yet. Need to do some measuring first.



What would the desired wheelbase be for a 2.5 ton explorer?

 

[IZwack]

The 115-125 sounds like a better deal -- 130 just sounds long. My Explorer is at 116 and I think I'm a little on the long side.

Of course this all depends on the type of terrain you're aiming for. I think here in the east, we typically sway a little bit more on the longer wheel base.

If you're going to follow TDavis' Zuk then I'm guessing you're going to run links in the back? If so, the gas tank has to go and if you're going to do that, you might as well chop the chassis behind the link mounts -- which would allow the axle to come up higher.

One thing I would aim for is building this as low as possible. You'll get plenty of clearance with 42s already soooo, while I know its almost impossible especially at the front because of the dreaded engine, it would really be awesome if you can keep the lower links horizontal and make this rig really squat. All you need to do then is boat-side it with some HDPE or whatever belly pan and you'll glide over anything.

 

[Burns]

Well i have decided since this is a crawler and not a mud rig i can get away by running a 4.0. At that point ill take the front in and narrow it. Remove grill and make headlights touch each other. Or however close i can get it to the motor. That way i can have it sitting lower overall and then the front can flex the tires over up near the fenders and hood area.

It will be big but im not going to just build it into the air. To big makes more problems. The rear will look exactly how the Zuk looks. Gas tank location and everything.

Planning on coilovers up front and nitrogen shocks in the rear. It will be front and rear steer!

 

[Exploderpilot]

Sounds like what we talked about on the way to the airport. I think the sport is a better choice, seems like it would be sooo much easier to shorten the front end....

 

[Burns]

Thats what im thinking but i will still have to do some measuring tomm. We have a 1gen sport and it has to be close to the 01 sport in size.

 

[IZwack]

Hey are you sure thats the wheelbase of the Sports? Cauz I thought they were like 105-ish -- my 4dr XLT stock was I think 112.

 

[Burns]

Im including that figure with me pushing the front axle forward so i can have tire sticking in front of the bumper

 

[IZwack]

Oh okay I gotcha -- that makes sense.

 

[Exploderpilot]

But why not just move the front past the wheels?

 

[Burns]

Explain a little more jason. I may just be having a brain fart here



Im going to measure now just to see if im close.

 

[Exploderpilot]

I'm just saying chop the front framerails to the front edge of the wheels. it's not like they are gonna jump up into the radiator. It will be much easier I think to relocate springs in the rear than links in the front.

 

[Burns]

Well I think it will be just as easy to push the front axle forward and re-locate the springs farther up on the frame than to cut the frame down. Plus i got to be able to get the 42 up in there with out it clipping the door lol


Oh and my rough measurment at the moment it 118 wheelbase.

 

[IZwack]

I'd try to stick for that 118. You can push the rear axle forward (especially if you're linking) -- the only limiter here is the transfer case because eventually the rear drive shaft becomes too short.

Ideally, pushing the front axle forward so that it can actually come up in front of the radiator and then pulling the rear axle forward would lead to a better rig due to weight distribution (the engine is effectively moving backwards), and would allow you to squat the vehicle really low because the axle can then come way up. But the driveshafts become very weird and again, the rear driveshaft can only be so short until U-joints start breaking due to angle limits.

The 4.0 definitely has more than enough power and I think if you put a doubler or an Atlas behind the transmission, then you should be golden (you'll probably need it anyway for 42s). If in the future you need to do an engine swap, swap in a shorter block and a shorter transmission because the shorter these two become, the better driveline angles you'll have.

 

[Burns]

I just want to have everything in line now. I can be doing all this planning while the drive in is getting open.

This will be my 2nd rig so i want the advise of the experienced builders.

Where the axle will be the rear drive shaft should be fine in length.

Im already looking atlas so that will all be really simple.

 

[Burns]

This pic explains the rear end look all the way.

 

[Exploderpilot]

Does fatcat still have his for sale? You should jump on that.

 

[Exploderpilot]

and i don't see a picture.

 

[IZwack]

This pic explains the rear end look all the way.

So more of a truggy

Does fatcat still have his for sale? You should jump on that.

Are you talking about the Atlas? Cauz that was sold just a few days ago I think.

 

[Burns]

I would rather get the satsifaction(SP) of building it myself.

I didnt even know his was forsale?

 

[Burns]

So more of a truggy

Are you talking about the Atlas? Cauz that was sold just a few days ago I think.

Oh yeah. There wont be much body or frame left.