How hot is too hot for Explorer?

[CDW6212R]

That could be the fan itself, my fan I doubt ever reaches 50% speed. It starts very very slow, and likely levels off at 1/3 speed or so. It only runs that fast for several seconds, then slows and stops. That is during my route use, 30 miles in 2.5 hours, and average speed of 10mph. I would be mad if mine ran faster or if the temps fluctuated much more than they do. I see temps from about 190 to near 200, rarely getting over 200. I usually notice my Scangauge late in the day showing a high temp of 202-206. It's frustrating I know, the few controllers all have their issues. The customer service issue of DCC is a big issue.

 

[trucku]

I agree with you. I bet then if it was at the actual 50% speed the low setting may serve me fine and never have to go to high (only when AC is on).

If the temp range was closer from low to high for the spal it would be excellent. The new version will be this way withing 5 degrees of variance for lot to high speed.

I ordered a simpler setup by Hayden. Maybe simplicity will be what my truck needs.

What fan are you using?

The Ebay fan i have seems to be a constant run type. The Perma-cool just stated to burn up.

Hayden Thermostatic Electric Radiator Fan Control, Thread-in Kit has adjustable temperature ranges. Compatible with Hayden electric fans and original equipment fans. Thread-in kit features: - Temperature and AC activation - Operation of up to two fans - AC or manual override - Complete instructions and hardware included Adjustable from 160F - 230F. 1/8"MPT thread-in probe for temperature sensing. Installs in water jacket or radiator.

 

[CDW6212R]

Mine also came from eBay, it's a used Volvo fan. They used to be more common, and I saw one recently for about $60. This is a version that includes the Bosch controller, mine didn't. That is probably an on/off controller also.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volv...VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

 

[Maniak]

If your fan is actually a two speed fan, check into the PAC-2000 from dakota digital.. I'm using that with a 300F VDO sending unit and so far its working perfect.

We are using a single speed fan (1998 taurus fan) so we are not using the controller to its fullest potential.

The controller can handle a single fan, two fans, or a two speed fan.. You get to choose your own temps for on/off and I currently have the single speed fan set for on at 210 off at 200 which is working great.

~Mark

 

[trucku]

Ok I see, that's a pretty big fan. Is it bigger than 16" The ebay one I bought so far works really nice. On high it really cools the coolant down. That ebay one is 16".

Right now I have my low set 212on and 202off. I wonder if i open it up, can I get it to run at full speed instead of low.

That Dakota Digital is exactly what I thought this version of the SPAL controller would do. The price is not bad at all for all it does.

Thanks guys for the good info you been giving me.


Vishant

I just barely cleared the pulley

 

[BrooklynBay]

It looks like a very tight fit.

 

[trucku]

I had to sit the that far back to take advantage of the shroud. To be honest I got luck with the clearance the second time around. Nothing hits so that is good. I was able to drive to the post office today (1 mile) and back without the fan needing to be turned on. The truck went up to 209F highest. Tomorrow I will have my new fan switch and see how that works.

The spal is going up for sale.

 

[Maniak]

In case you didn't see in my other thread (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219176) about the taurus fan...

Here is a pic of how I modified a taurus fan with integral shroud to make it fit within the stock shroud. We kept a bunch of the taurs shroud to try to get as much air to come through the fan when its running as possible.

Once we cut/modifed the taurus shroud we had plenty of room between the fan and the pump.

~Mark

 

[trucku]

Thanks Maniak


I like that setup. The Override is a great idea. I definitely don't want fan running when the AC is on and I am on the highway. Great idea I will put in the override switches definitely.


I also mounted my fain withing my shroud, but pulled it back as far as possible to take advantage of the shroud. It is centered with about 1.5 -2 inches all around it.

 

[CDW6212R]

The fan was the simple part other than fabrication. It looks like the DCC controller has the best characteristics when working correctly. I wish that there was one like it from a better company, with sturdier terminals.

Below shows the three parts that I built my fan with. Using a plastic ring makes the air all go through the fan, but fiberglassing it together is highly recommended. Mine is attached with epoxy, and it does let go a little after some time and heat. Mine is a tight fit also, under 1/8" and they touch occasionally.

 

[trucku]

I need to put a ring around my fan too. Today with 90F weather I could not put my AC on or the truck started to overheat. I set the fan to high and it kept my truck to 202F. In heavy traffic it went to 207F. BUT i had to have the fan running full speed for a long trip form Manhattan to Queens on the BQE. I was creeping. SO the greater bad news is I now have a huge vibration from the fan. In a few minutes I am running down to take it off the truck and see whats wrong. I bet this fan got warped form all the heat. With the fan not fitting tight, I must have been circulating a lot of very hot air round itself.


This is my bad luck mod...LOL. I knew all my little things were going to good. Something had to fail...lol.

CDW612R,
Where could I find fiberglass to do this project the right way?

 

[wyochimneysweep]

as long as you have a good mixture for coolant you can safely run up to 260 degrees. not good for exmissions but as long as the coolant isn't boiling ur not going to do any damage. so set it at 212 for low and 225 for high

 

[BrooklynBay]

The transmission shouldn't run at such a high temperature. Doing this will boost the ATF temperature through the radiator's integrated cooler.

 

[trucku]

I ran 50/50 and my truck boiled over at 250F. The coolant is new (3 days old. ford specified Green) and my system was flushed. My truck rapidly increases its idle as the temp increases. At 250 my idle was over 1100rpm.

If you read earlier the settings did not work. The controller looks at voltage differential and a .3 was needed in between low to high. So 212 low meant 250 high. At that time my reservoir cap blew and shot out half a gallon of coolant.

 

[trucku]

The transmission shouldn't run at such a high temperature. Doing this will boost the ATF temperature through the radiator's integrated cooler.

Very good point BrooklynBay.

I need to keep this rig at 202. I will be pulling fan in a few to see damage or cause of vibration.

 

[wyochimneysweep]

my 302 with electric fan when the relay failed in chicago traffic took 35 minutes before it even reached the red and never boiled till i shut her done. the raditor will very seldom get over 200 unless sitting still for long periods or towing. if your rad is getting that hot while cruising you have insuffient flow somewhere

 

[wyochimneysweep]

and if the coolant bioled at 250 how do you know it's fifty fifty? there can be as much as a gallon left in the block heater and other areas that aren't ussaully drianed so if you added 50/50 and there was water in the block now you got 40/60 and yes it will boil. her in nd i run 60/40

 

[trucku]

my 302 with electric fan when the relay failed in chicago traffic took 35 minutes before it even reached the red and never boiled till i shut her done. the raditor will very seldom get over 200 unless sitting still for long periods or towing. if your rad is getting that hot while cruising you have insuffient flow somewhere

Once I move my truck gets back to 202F. I have 3rd gen and they are are not the easiest flowing engine bay around. I don't monitor my truck temp with the inboard gauge. My scanguage II tells me exactly what temp I am running, even though my cabin gauges look good.

 

[trucku]

and if the coolant bioled at 250 how do you know it's fifty fifty? there can be as much as a gallon left in the block heater and other areas that aren't ussaully drianed so if you added 50/50 and there was water in the block now you got 40/60 and yes it will boil. her in nd i run 60/40

I drained the truck the best I could from the radiators drain valve. It took about 2 and a half bottles of coolant of 50/50 green to fill it. My issues is not that is boils at 250. Once the 16lb cap pop and the pressure dropped the coolant boiled over. That's what I expected when the boiling temp is help by pressure. Boiling did not occur while pressure was under 16lb cap limit. Keeping my rig in its temp range (also verified by Aldive's Dyno Runs) is what I want.
Again my truck idles extremely high at those high temps and I am sure out of my engines optimal safe range.

I get where your going with the fact that the truck is never truly drained.

 

[wyochimneysweep]

k just wanted to make things clear. and yes i understand what your saying about cap releasing pressure and it boiling also. but if you set the low speed at 212 and high at 227 you should be fine at this time also was what i was getting at.