Fan was $168.99, controller was $21.88.
Just about $200 from Summit Racing, and it arrived at my door the next day.
The aluminum brackets on the bottom did not come with the kit. Those I added myself. You could easily use the zip tie attachments that come with the kit to fasten the bottom of the fan through the radiator fins.
I did not install mine with the factory shroud. The photo with the shroud is just to show that you can install it with the factory shroud. I like not having the factory shroud and having all that extra room to work with under the hood. If I'm not cooling effectively, then I might consider putting the factory shroud back.
When installing the controller, it is better to solder than to use those connectors that came with the kit. It is also good to use the thicker wires. I recommend having:
- a right angle drill for tight spaces
- a good cutting tool
- a wire stripping tool
- 8mm 1/4" drive socket, extension, and ratchet handle for the battery
- drill, wrenches, screwdrivers, nuts, washers, lock washers & bolts for mounting
- extra wiring, kit will not have enough wiring
- an electronic hook-up kit that has a variety of connectors
- a soldering iron, soldering flux, solder
- liquid electrical tape & standard electrical tape
- heat shrink tubes and a heat gun
- dielectric grease
- multi meter & test light
- extra mini fuses and fuse taps
- 30 AMP relay (suggested)
- split loom
- zip ties
My switch unit came with a green wire and a yellow wire (no brown) to trigger my 85 post on the relay.
I connected the yellow wire to the thermostat probe and ran my own (pick a color, any color) wire to the fues block. For my 12V keyed ignition source, I used the fuse panel next to the front driver side door and ran a wire through the firewall. I selected the number 30 slot, used a spare fuse that was already inside of the panel, and a simple fuse tap and a female connector at the end of my wire.
To power my over-ride wire (green) I selected the A/C unit. You can also run it through the firewall into a dash mounted switch for manual over-ride. There is an electrical harness which connects to the A/C unit next to the battery tray. On my car, there were only two wires, one was yellow & black, the other one was black. I decided that the all black wire must be the ground, and that the yellow and black powered the unit. To be sure, I disconnected the connector and zip tied it out of the way. Then I started my car, turned the A/C on, and tested the connector with my test light. I don't like those squeeze on wire taps that come with the kit. I used a wire stripping tool, exposed about 1/5" of the wire, then soldered the green connecting wire.
The 86 post on the controller is a ground. I grounded both the controller and the fan to the negative post on the car's battery.
The 87 post operates your fan(s). This switch is set up to operate two fans with a combined draw of up to 25 AMPs. We are only operating one fan. I cut the wire between the switch and fuse holder, then ran my own line directly connecting the controller to the grey and brown lines on the fan. This particular fan is set up to operate as a low speed and high speed fan off two different control sources. For this application, I am only using one controller, and will operate this as high speed only.
The 30 post on the relay goes directly to the battery for power. I installed a circuit breaker on the side of the battery tray next to the positive post on the battery. The ciruit breaker takes the place of the fuse and fuse holder that I cut out of the line on the 87 post. If the circuit breaker trips, it will reset itself. No more issues with fuses blowing and having to change fuses. If you are driving, and don't know that the fuse has blown, then your fan just won't work and your car will overheat. The battery is connected to the circuit breaker, and the 30 post on the relay will connect to the circuit breaker. It is always safer to install your circuit breaker, or even your fuse, as close to the battery as possible; as opposed to inline from the controller to the fan.
The thermostat must touch the radiator fins in order to work. Be very careful when installing the probe. In my car, the A/C cooler is the same size as the radiator, and mounted directly in front with only about 1" in between. I had to cut the probe in order for the thermostat to work. And there was no way for me to install the pad and clip onto the probe with the radiator installed. You may have to pull the radiator out in order to do this properly, or live with the thermostat not being clipped in properly.
