Completed Project Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up

[Kirby N.]

The belly pan is all tacked together and ready for final weld. I am debating on building a tcase skid for the lower most part of the case. I would like to, but it will make it unserviceable without the belly pan dropped which requires taking off the radius arms. That and the radius arm mounts will still be the lowest part under belly.

 

[BKennedy]

Can you post a picture? Why not make the transfer case skid plate separate from the belly pan? I have two skids that overlap at the transmission cross member, one for transmission, one for transfer case. I was going to make a third covering the part of the engine not protected by the cross member, but decided it would be near impossible for a rock to get up in there.

 

[Kirby N.]

I think that's what I will do. Make it separate. Like yours. Later. When I don't have so many other things to do!

 

[BKennedy]

Good plan. Pic of mine

 

[yostyexplorer94]

This time for the multipurpose vehicle the ranger will be I expect 5.13s to be adequate with the stock tcase. We will see though.

I have 5.13 gears 35" tires and i couldn't crawl to the top of a 36" tire without the doubler. I would get halfway up and i could smell my clutch. Crawling through rocks was hell so i didn't do much til i got my doubler because i knew i was gonna ruin my clutch if i kept it up.

 

[Kirby N.]

I wheeled my explorer sport with 4.56s and 37s with no doubler for years so I know where you are coming from. I also built a doubler and installed it on that rig so I know the difference it makes. However, This is a multi purpose rig that won't live in the rocks everyday. It will haul my butt to work everyday and hual all sorts of stuff in the bed. It will also drag a trailer around and do the occasional trail. I think it will be fine. If not, I will start saving for an aftermarket tcase, not a doubler.

 

[RockRanger]

Glad it got there fast. One thing before you weld it up. The included bolts for the cross member side are metric and should use the factory bolts. Also the 9/16" bolts in the bushings one goes in from the front and one from the back. If you put the tcase on after the bolts are installed and they are reversed then you will have to pull the tcase to get the mount apart.

 

[Kirby N.]

Wow. This thing is really well built. Too late I welded it up monday when I got it!

I ended up drilling out the bottom holes for 1/2" bolts. I had to buy a 25 from fastenal so I have them and I like having them of the same size.

I didnt realize the 9/16" bolts went a certain way. oops. Is that due to the size of the holes or the clearance of the tcase? I need the driver to go from the front to back due to tight clearance on that tube, so hopefully I can work that out.

 

[RockRanger]

It has to do with with clearance to pull the bolt out. When in one direction the bolt can only be pulled out part way before they hit the trans or Tcase. If it worked for you then you got it right. You should be able to see which way the bolts go once you go to mount it up. Maybe there are more variations and only on mine it is an issue?

 

[Kirby N.]

I didnt run into any issues with bolts from the front or rear on either side. I will check again when I remove it for paint.

I did run into other issues, however. My track bar and drag link are out to be made. The drag link will be done today. The track bar on the other hand- the threads of the joints I choose are 1"x 14. You already know the clearance issues I am having especially with the poly upper joint that is 2.6" wide. Well, the other issue is that my machinist buddy who is turning all my steering linkage says the threads are very uncommon for him. So uncommon that he has no taps. I thought I would just buy the taps. I located the right had tap at Napa for $20. The left is $130 special order. So that is $150 bucks.

So I decided to go with new joints. Ballistic wont take my joints back because I have had them for over 90 days. So I bought 2" flex joints with 7/8"x14 threads and I am going to go with flex joints on both sides. I also ordered a new "outside of frame" trackbar bracket from ruff stuff that should give me another inch or two of trackbar length and more clearance with it being thinned and outside of the frame!

Burning $150 sucks. I hope I can sell the joints and recoup some money. Doubt they will sell well if they are that odd size. All this would be easier if I went with heims. I refuse.

 

[Kirby N.]

Oh also Moab with the ranger on the 25th is definitely out now. I am glad we have some dirtbikes and a 2006 Rubicon Unlimited. It will still be fun. I don't think anyone from the site will still be there by the time we get there anyway.

 

[BKennedy]

Would you get more space if you mounted the bushing side of the track bar on the axle? Mine is set up that way and works great.

 

[Kirby N.]

I could but the bracket I got is 2" wide so it won't fit the bushing I have. Also I wasn't able to get the mounts straight accross from each other with the lower mount I have and the diff interference and the cool bucket where it is at. I could mount it below the coil bucket but then it would be even shorter and need a bend to clear the diff and I don't have access to my old hydro harbor freight bender to bend the smaller stuff anymore.

I got my belly pan all welded up. It needs some paint.

I attmpted to drill the mount with oblong 1/2" holes. That didn't work. So I over drilled the holes then I will add these spacers under the nuts.
I hope this will make install easier.

 

[RockRanger]

I like the skidplate. Fun working with non parallel frame rails.

 

[Kirby N.]

I got my parts in

I think the reducer spacers will work
Great. I hope the line up.

Primed everything and and painted it. I even painted the frame rails.

Thanks again rockranger for this rad tranny bushing setup!

 

[Kirby N.]

Got the final install of the belly pan done. Everything lined up great.

Side view:

The lowest part will be those dumb radius arm mounts. I hope I don't hang up on them.

 

[BKennedy]

How far does the transfer case hang down past the cross member? It looks like, when you can get to it, that fabbing up a skid plate won't be too hard. Nice work.

 

[Kirby N.]

It has to do with with clearance to pull the bolt out. When in one direction the bolt can only be pulled out part way before they hit the trans or Tcase. If it worked for you then you got it right. You should be able to see which way the bolts go once you go to mount it up. Maybe there are more variations and only on mine it is an issue?

Mine fits the bolts either way when bolted up. Front to back of back to front both sides. My cats are out of the way, though.

 

[Kirby N.]

How far does the transfer case hang down past the cross member? It looks like, when you can get to it, that fabbing up a skid plate won't be too hard. Nice work.

Maybe and inch. It won't be too bad when I get to it. The radius arm mount is right next to it and it is much lower, so most of the time those mounts will get hit far before the tcase. With the long wheelbase those are both a concern, though.

 

[BKennedy]

Looking through your thread, I like how you recessed the bolts for the trans cross member. My radius arm mounts ended up a few inches back from the cross member and the bolt heads have always been a concern. I think I need to recess the bolt heads someday. That small amount of clearance adds up at the other end of the arms.